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Timster... This IS the way to go...bead blasting (glass)or the finest media you can get so as not to overly "pit" the surface as it's cleaned. Hit them with a metal cleaner and some zinc-phosphate primer then topcoat with a silver of your choice. Or, you can go all the way and have the blasted wheels "powder coated". This costs more but, it's a beautiful, tough, easily cleaned, long-lasting treatment. Alterntively, if not powder coated, a good tough, glossy paint is made by Hammerite. I've used this stuff in the past...it's pretty damn good and is what I would... MORE
Hi guys Me again asking stoopid questions : ) Can anyone tell me the original finish on the front and rear lever arm shock absorbers? Were they left in a natural metal state or painted? My front ones are currently in a kind of silver hammered finish on the body and what looks like black on the arm. The rear ones seem to be in the natural metal finish (although covered in a white substance - is that Aluminium Oxide?) and the arms seem so rusty I cant tell what they were finished in. I think the arms were... MORE
Nigel... All the lever shocks I've ever seen (which is NOT to be interpreted as, "I've seen them all) were presented in a flat or semi- gloss black. However, I have heard they are also done in "natural" metal finish as they come from various aftermarket rebuilders. For correct info on this I would query Peter C. at nos@... ., our lever shock specialist and rebuilder. Now he has most likely seen them all and has accurate answers for your particular project? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26618... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
MB = 65lbft and Conrod = colour dyed 50lbft / phosphated 46lbft. You really ought to get a workshop manual you know! "Jeremy Cogman" 26585... MORE
Have you ever used a nut splitter? It is a tool that fits over the nut and drives a chisel like blade into the flat of the nut. they are usually inexpensive and can be used over and over again. Matt Pfeil 76 Midget (Now with the Cracked Windscreen option) "matthew pfeil" 26589... MORE
David I saw those in the parts manual. ummmmmmmm......... how you supposed to afix the threaded plates to the sill =3D=0D when you cant get behind the panel to get a nut on the thread ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26566... MORE
there are supposed to be some threaded stud-plate things as well, which should help hold the strips more firmly (can't remember if there's one at each end of each strip, or just one per strip) Check your parts manual for details. David "David Jacobs" 26565... MORE
Terry... I am assuming you are working with a "rebuilt" shock under warranty?? If so, "good" rebulds are definitely hard to find...'cause very few know what they are doing or don't do a "proper" job. Go to www.gerardsgarage.com and click on Spridet and maintenance articles, wherein you will find an excellent piece on this "art" authored by Peter C. of Worldwide Auto Parts. Rebuilding levers is his specialty. The man does it right, and improves the product with modern materials while he does so. He can also provide optional valving as well. Instead of replacing under warranty, you MIGHT... MORE
Hi guys I'm just about to start putting the front suspension back together. Where the kingpin attaches to the Wishbone, there are two cork sealing washers. In my parts books both cork washers are the same external diameter but one is a larger internal diameter than the other. Anyone know the reason or significance of this? Is it something to do with the fulcrum pin? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26547... MORE
Hi Trying to put the 'chrome' strip back on the sill of 1972 midget using new retaining clips. The ones supplied are far too small and fail to retain th e strip, good job I tried them first before pop riveting them to the sill. Anyone else had this problem or is this just a bad batch of clips. I get them from a local MG bit and pieces enthusiasts shop, think they come from same source as MGOC. I got an original BMC workshop manual for Midget/Spri te for =A310 from him yesterday. Just had to re exchange... MORE
LOL...:):) Margaret... I am not talking about the unawareness of childhood which allows a relatively carefree existence my good lady. I am talking about a mature adult with a keen sense of situational awareness who works with the positive while being totally knowledgeable with respect to the negative, yet has lived a carefree existence (as an adult) for the last 30 years!! :) It is not a matter of getting anything off my chest. You asked an intelligent question...you got an intelligent answer though you may not like what you hear! :) It is part of the reality that... MORE
Oh yes! I know that feeling too. Doing jobs on these cars can be frustrating at times. With regard to the Midget though, I only have myself to blame, being the present owner and also the 'daft previous owner' . Having said that, when it was still quite new, the garage who serviced it (and supplied it, The Bedford Garage, in Exeter Devon U.K. - no longer in existence, by the way) failed to lubricate the king pins properly, leading to them seizing up, so I resolved to do my own servicing, spending the remainder of what I would... MORE
Roger Thanks again for your advice. I decided in the end to use the Castrol LM grease I just happened to have a tin of in my garage, donated by my dad a few years ago I think. Particularly so as when I looked in the Midget/Sprite shop manual it actually specifies this grease as the one to use! Nice result that one! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26520... MORE
Put a little hook under the oil seal and pull. They even used to have a special service tool to do it. I always used a metal bar and put it under (into) one side of the oil seal and pressed down on the other end using the oposite side of the the housing as the fulcrum. It always worked. If rust is the problem, a bit more elbow grease is required. R. "Roger Stinson" 26512... MORE
Jeremy There's no grit from what I can see, it has an inner metal disc over the top of the grease protecting it. I'll probably scoop off about 1/2 an inch worth off the top and throw it away, so hopefully that'll leave virgin stuff. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26500... MORE
OK ok ok as you're being so helpful I'll call ya Ed : ) You'll just have to excuse my 'somewhat' naive questions regarding what you consider to be second nature. I am not a mechanic, never have been nor will ever be one. Bodywork, welding, spraying, upholstery I can do, mechanics I learn as I go along, which is why I'm so dependant on workshop manuals. Unless the manual spells out what you have to do, I'll get confused (which isn't hard)! Now whats the end-float got to do with anything? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26484... MORE
Heya 'grumpy' : ) Thanks for your reply! Of course I have a ****ing shop manual but of course the ****ing shop manual only covers removing the bearing from a steel wheel hub and NOT a wire wheel one, hence my confusion as to which side it needs to come out of! To be honest, I think I might just hand it over to a garage and say 'You sort it out! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26478... MORE
My book (Chilton 210) says manual transmissions should use API GL-4 which I think is 75W-90 or 80W-90. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26463... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
Chris... Interesting question however, did you know that a wider .015, instead of .012 clearance is recommended by the factory for the stock cam when used in "performance" circumstances? I guess the .012 is used for more quiet running under normal or low rpm street applications when top rpm useage will be brief, rather than under cirumstances wherein continuous high rpm running and attendant swelling of parts due to heat is expected. Also, under the latter circumstances, "burning" of a valve will be less likely as well. And, of course, with the wider cleanance, you get faster acceleration ("ramp"... MORE
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html Follow the above link, and you'll find a manual on the transmission. It has a filler hole that can be accessed from the underside of the car. I honestly can't remeber what what oil I used. (I debated the issue several days with my father before going with the oil mentioned in the rivergate kit instructions) "Trevor Jessie" 26458... MORE
Hi, Bob.... Yes the return springs are installed I have new ones to put in. The butterflies have been modified per Vizard, I wonder if that might have anything to do with the problem. The fast idle screws are not even touching the cam. Something must be holding the butterfly open a little. Off come the carbs tomorrow. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26450... MORE
No need to modify the complex hood struts and bows, they were there first! It sounds to me like a job for. "MISTER HAMMER"!!! Perhaps a really big hammer. We call them persuaders. If it doesn't work at first, get a bigger hammer. Or at worst, mark the offending area and cut out some of the roll bar, reverse the removed metal to retain the curved strength and weld back in the hole, thereby giving some extra room and retaining the strength of the bar. Better than finding a new bar and going through the install process all over... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
