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In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE


Roger Yes a typo, and serves me right for slavishly following Terry Horler's book instead of thinking about it myself. It should of course have been November 66. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24453... MORE


"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE


My book says- March 1964 A-H Sprite MK III #H-An8 38829 to H-AN8 64755 Doors substantially altered. Wind-up windows instead of sidescreens....External door handles and door locks now fitted....etc. March 1964; M.G, Midget MK II G-AN3 25788 to 52411 Identical to contempory Sprite except price was 20 lbs mor in U.K. and $170 in USA. *Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration of the MG Midget & Austine- Healey Sprite by Lindsay Porter. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24417... MORE


I have a nasty crack in the windsheild of my '76 midget. One shop in town would be happy to replace the glass...for $600. The competing shop has a much more reasonable price quote, but they dont stock clear glass, and would have to put a piece with a slight green tint in. From the workshop manual, it doesnt look like a terribly difficult job, but the book doesnt give many details beyond the removal and refit of the entire frame. Is it a job I can do with my fair technical knowledge and a few extra hands? Is... MORE


I have the same parts book, 11th Edition (1970) Section Ja.3 - Alignment covers the info. Ja.3 Issue 2 does NOT contain the info I mention, Ja.3 -Alignment Issue 3 does. See illustration Ja.1 Gerard "gerardchateau" 24353... MORE


Adam You'll find no better book on tuning/building the A Series Engine than Davi =3D=0D d Vizard's - Tuning BL's A Series Engine, it's the bible. One of the advantages of all of the sprite/midget range is that It will ta =3D=0D ke any one of the A Series engines, so a bored out 1275 would fit quite happily in =3D=0D an earlier version. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24346... MORE


Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE


David, Which "the book" are you referring to? There are many. The Bentley (factory manual reference) does if you have a late enough versoin of it. I posted the info in an earlier message. Early cars are opposite the pinion side on LHD cars and on the same side aftter the Triupmph rack was subbed for the Morris one. I am assuming the opposite is so for RHD in both cases. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24322... MORE


the book doesn't state which side it goes for the earlier racks! "David Jacobs" 24310... MORE


It says in the factory manual, the packing is on the pinion side for later cars. "David Jacobs" 24289... MORE


My Black Tulip 73 has a Tonneau cover that is in near mint condition . . . except . . . because it seems to have been seldom, if ever used has shrunk. Unlike some other Tonneau covers I have had the backing material on this one is very heavy duty canvas which is giving me trouble. Very good quality and construction. I have been successful in stretching the lighter canvas backed ones back to fit but this one even taking advantage of the hot weather we are having has resisted being stretched far enough, close but not there.... MORE


Stewart I really don't see what the problem is here and what it is that you don't understand. Unfortunately I do not have the book you refer to, I do however have parts manuals for all series of Spridgets and I can tell you with utmost certainty that the floor pan for a 1/4 elliptic Mk1 sprite is NOT The same as the floor pan for the semi elliptic later cars. OK but you must have the moss parts catalouge then where it states that the later floorpan can be used on early cars with little modification.. well I... MORE


Stewart I really don't see what the problem is here and what it is that you don't understand. Unfortunately I do not have the book you refer to, I do however have parts manuals for all series of Spridgets and I can tell you with utmost certainty that the floor pan for a 1/4 elliptic Mk1 sprite is NOT The same as the floor pan for the semi elliptic later cars. The floor pan pressing DID change from 58 - 79 you are incorrect here and I do not understand where you're getting this information from, the Sprite Mk1... MORE


Stewart Well, the spring hanger structures on the Mk1 Sprite are quite different to the spring hanger structures on the 1500. Take it from me, the Sprite Mk1 spring hangers are a lot more complex to repair than the relatively simple 1500 one. And the triangulated structure on the 1500 IS needed, as it's a strengthening area for the rear of the car and as such a very important part the monococque structure. Why don't you buy the excellent restoration book 'Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration, MG Midget and Austin-Healey Sprite by Lindsay Porter, this book deals with... MORE


Kevin No need to apologise, it's the old UK/American terminology thing again. Well, from the sounds of it, it's a pretty standard 'body rotten' Spridget! =3D=0D I think you'll also find that the rear spring hangers will need doing as well. You'll need to give this some serious thought, and Robert gave some good advice (if you remove the bit about pop rivetting the floors in!) First off you do need to consider whether you really want to start getting =3D=0D into body repairs yourself. Whilst as I said previously, there really isn't anyt =3D=0D hing bodywork wise on... MORE


Sure it's doable. However, some qeustions to answer first: Do you have the necessary place, tools and skills? Are you willing to lay the car up for - say several hundred man hours of work? How much enjoyment will you get out of doing this? Would it be better to find a non-running, non-rusty car and start your restoration there, using your present car for a parts car? If the floors and sills are gone, I'll bet there's lots more rust waiting for you. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24187... MORE


Bob.... I say safety first when it comes to "serious" structure. According to Spridget books I've read, a great deal of structural strength emanates from firewall and is tied into the floors to the rear "bulkhead" which houses the forward rear spring attach points. I could be wrong on this and if I am, I apologize for THIS is the basis of my opinion, which is not very "hands on" learned to the extent of guys like Frank, Chuck, and others far more knowledgeable then I. If the floors and sills were basically sound and mostly there, I might... MORE


G'day Jeremy When I said "fine" emery or wet+dry, I meant something like 1200 grade. The stuff you use to rub down a newly painted car before the final polish. There is no way it will leave and residue embedded in the surface. Same with wire wool. The wire works like hundreds of little scrapers. Trust me. We need to do it in around 25% of engine rebuilds, as otherwise the camshaft is too tight. A bearing scraper in experienced hands is a better tool. But if you are not careful you can leave gouges in the bearing. avagoodday... MORE


G'day Brad I am not aware of production oversize cam bearings. I guess you could go hunting other makes for something that would fit, but I doubt it would be productive. Find a machine shop with a lathe and a knurling tool, grip each of the bearings in turn in the lathe with the camshaft inside so that you don't crush the bearings, and lightly knurl the outside of the bearings. Then fit them with Locktite. Betcha they don't come loose. You might need to relieve the ID of the bearings once fitted, as the knurling will tend to... MORE


Dave Great book, I have it - worth every penny, even though I got mine cheap from a discount bookstore! It''s the bible for originality. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24125... MORE


No Bob, I wouldn't say fitting the liners made the block stiffer. But most blocks vary around 6 to 8 grade cast iron, and the liners are 22 grade - finer grains, more consistent, stronger material. So the rings bed in better, you get a better seal (against the finer grain of the liner) and the engine lasts longer as the bore doesn't wear as much. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 24115... MORE


Hi All Sorry if this is old news (I dont have the list sent to me) But I,ve just Ordered Terry Horlers Original Sprite and Midget Book From www.haynes.co.uk as its back in print Just thought I,d let everyone know Cheers Dave "daveyd425" 24111... MORE


Well, Don May... I just had a fibreglass BE bonnet enter my life by coincidence. I just had my steel one overhauled in terms of new metal strips, etc. It's got cooling louvres (they work beautifully, BTW) and pretty soon will have a nice smooth finish between the grille and parking lights... no more "unsightly" horzontal seams!! :) Some guy refused a fibreglass one that just came in to S&C up the road from me so it became available. Might be a good time to convert over to save a little weight...give it a tilt front end treatment, etc.!... MORE


G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE