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It depends on the materials you are using. Cellulose, I presume. Lots of thin coats are preferable to one or two thick ones. A little while ago, one of the other listers described how their father sprayed many coats, and then ended up with a very light coat of well thinned paint. (Alan East-Jones?) I have to say that this matches my experience. I personally would not like to be putting a final coat on at this time of year unless you have some degree of control of the temperature and humididity. (Humidity cases bloom) Having said all that... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Well if you are using explorer for your mails you could enter "tools" and click on "message rules" an d then "mails". Here you have the possibility to automaticaly have mails deleted from the server if they come from certain posters or contains certain words specified by yourselves. It gets rid of a fair amount of the spam mails. Jens Jens P. Maudal jens.maudal@... Greetings from "BottomsUp Brewery" Drammen - Norway Work: +47 32833566, mobile: +47 90540409 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Visit my humble RIMS and homebrew page: http://home.c2i.net/bottomsup/index.htm Norbrygg bryggeside: http://www.norbrygg.com ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, "jens maudal" 27510... MORE
Cap'n Been there, done that. The bottom section contains only a gauze type filter about 1/32" (+/-)thick. The upper section contains some weight but when I shake it there isn't any discernible movement as I would expect from a loose charcoal particle filter. At the bottom end (now open) of the upper section of the canister is what appears to be a perforated plate sitting on three radial plastic bars. These bars meet in the middle to form three open triangle sections; I assume to allow vapor, air, fluid to pass out thru the down tube. There may also... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Chris... Nigel is trying to save you a headache a couple of years down the road. What use is it to pay a 2,500 pounds for a year or two of use, only to have to take the off the road because you cannot affor needed repairs, most especially for those required in the interests of safety? This does not mean you should stop looking (and most of all, learning) as you continue to save your hard earned pounds. For there is always the possibility that you will get lucky. I have been there twice. Part of the reason... MORE
Chris You're most welcome to the help, thats what the list's here for. I'm also in Surrey as it happens. If you're looking for a usable Midget, rather than a 'concour's or 'rust heap' theres plenty to choose from, but the expression Caveat Emptor definitely applies to this group of cars, ie the middle ground. The first piece of advice I can give you is to look at the bodywork very carefully indeed, as this is the most expensive to fix by a long way. Tired mechanicals are easy enough to replace/recondition, bodywork can be a major expense -... MORE
Chris Welcome to the list. To answer your question is, as I'm sure you're aware, rather difficult, not knowing more information or ideally seeing what you mean. I think you've clarified your question enough for us to 'assume' that you're referring to the beading running long the top of the rear wing where it attaches to the main rear decking of the body. The question you need to be asking yourself is not 'how easy is that to fix' but what is causing the damage to it. Once you've got the answer to that question, you can then answer... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
Hi David- Couldn't access the pic at all. Thanks for your help. I am still trying to figure out the attachment problem on my car. When I started my restoration, I stripped the car down to bare metal. Found the right wing had a bit of repair. All other panels were perfect. Sought out a NOS wing in England and was lucky enough to find one (this was about 8 years ago). Bought it, bolted it on, and the fit was excellent. But for some reason, the wing does not have a hole drilled in the rain gutter for... MORE
Yes, Chris.... Makes perfect sense. On my older LBC's the VIN numbers were all "indented" as in stamped from the front. On my '74 Midget, the VIN plate was riveted to the metal by the left windshield post, forward of the "rolled" top portion of the dash, just to the left of the LH defroster duct. The VIN number was "raised" from the metal tab. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27298... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Max... Tighten down the bumpers or wherever you have the lights mounted to the extent possible. Using old rubber tubing or a material of that nature, fabricate a rubber mounting gasket (shock absorber so to speak) and there you go! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27257... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Dan Can't help with the book I'm afraid, but I do know that Moss in the UK do t =3D=0D he VIN plates, also that they sometimes come on on ebay.co.uk within a 'decal =3D=0D set'. You could also trawl ebay.co.uk or .com for the book you're looking f =3D=0D or, I've seen all sorts of books relevant to Midgets and Sprites on there. I recently got a Haynes Midget and Sprite Owners Handbook and Servicing Guide from ebay.co.uk for =A31! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27146... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Well, now that I've so so much great help in locating a source for VIN plate stamping, I find my source for the blank plate (I hadn't ordered it yet) has dried up. Can anyone tell me where to get one? Secondly, thanks to all who helped me ID my missing book, but I now find it's out of print, and I can't locate one of those either. The book is the "Sprite MG Midget Owners Handbook of Maintenance and Repair" It's green covered and is abut 5" x 8". It's published by Clymer Publishing. Again, where can I... MORE
Mike An online tool seller over here in the UK sell letter and number punches in various sizes, I was actually going to buy a set for my own VIN plate until Ed mentioned the company that does the stamping. They come in 2.5, 4, 6, 8 and 10 millimetre sizes. Can see them here - http://tinyurl.com/xdcr Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27138... MORE
Eeg Thank you and I'm pleased to hear your new sill is going to stay on! And yes I've already sprayed the underneath in topcoat, it's all done, as well as the engine bay and inside. I'm just working on the outer panels now. Repair panels are notorious for poor fit, some suppliers of repair panels are better than others (yes Ashley Hinton, you're one of the good ones:) and pretty much all of them require some form of fettling to make them fit correctly. To be honest 2 or 3 mil really doesn't sound that much, are you... MORE
Hi All, I have posted a directory (00 - Spotlights) to show you my new spots on my '64 Sprite. They are Lucas FT6's with replacement Sealed Beams. Wired in parallel, I put a Lucas toggle switch to the right of the steering wheel on the dash. In the end I made the brackets out of aluminium to fashion the metal and then took it to a metal worker who made a set for =A310 out of 3mm Stainless Steel. Thought you might like to see the end product. Thanks for your help Max "Max" 27129... MORE
Years ago (1980), when I first got my MKII, there was a book with it, given to me by the previous owner. The book has since vanished, and I would like to replace it but I can't remember much about it, including the name. It was a manual of some type with an interesting twist. At the end of the book there was a story about a couple guys driving their Sprite accross southern US (I think) I remember them discussing physics such as Boyles gas law and how it would pertain to their tire pressure when the drove... MORE
I'm not sure of the compression ratio but the head has been milled 0.080 and the cylinders are 0.040 larger. I'm using the valves for the 1098 head and running 1 1/2 SU's. The combustion chambers have all been opened up and balanced but I don't remember their size and won't be able to measure them until I get the new valve guides and lead free valve seats installed. I'll have to compute the compression ratio when I can make careful measurements. Thanks for the info. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 27116... MORE
Those numbers are close to the Kent 276 Megadyne cam. Vizard describes this cam as "Slight lopey idle, okay in traffic, Strong mid and top end..." "Jeffrey Holmes" 27112... MORE
Here are my cam numbers: Top center intake opens 29* exh closes 31* Bottom center in closes 64* exh opens 66* intake lift 0.295 exhaust lift 0.272 Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 27111... MORE
Is there some way to look up the performance potential of the cam I have in my Sprite? I have the numbers for when the valves open and close and also the lift measurements. I'm wondering if it is suitable for use with today's fuels as I put it in back in the 60's and the car has been dismembered since 1971. Nelson Mk2 1016cc Sprite "witstock7" 27109... MORE
