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Cap'n Bob, Some how, when you are the Capitan, in charge of the plane, and you are told that an engine has just fallen off the wing, I can't see you continuing to read a nusery book to the stewardess for the next 7 or 8 minutes before you even changed your expression or actually did something!!!!!!! Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 32988... MORE
#1... A hair dryer will soffen the panes slightly to allow them to bend just enough to get them out/In. I also used a putty knife/scraper to bend/pry them out with thereby not chipping the panes. 2. I have heard that there was 2 sizes of side curtains, +plus the side curtains for the early 58 Bugeyes. The rubber is very hard to put on/in and the corners will probably separate. 3. There is a special epoxy/glue for the panes, you should be able to get it from the company that you get the new lexan panes from, or... MORE
Hi Mark, I just finished re-doing the side screens on my Mk2 Sprite so I know what you are going through. 1. My original panes were not useable as the plastic was badly crazed through aging so I wasn't too concerned about removing them intact. I did get two of the four pieces out intact by holding the frames down with my feet and flexing the plastic upwards enough to pull them out. I had to use a screwdriver to bend back the portion of the frames that were pinched to secure the front non-moveable section. Only the rear... MORE
After looking for a few weeks for one of the square wrenches to adjust the rear brakes (one that won't break like the moss ones), I tracked one down on a MAC tool truck. MAC part number: RW903 It's a ratchety wrench and has 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8. Cost was $13, and well worth it to have the correct tool. As a bonus, since it has 4 different sizes, I can do both the B and the Midget. "TJ Tryon, Jr." 32963... MORE
TJ, Get out your BFH and give them a few smacks. They usually rust and fix themselves around the stud areas. Smack around the outside edge towards you/away from the drum. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in the "Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 32908... MORE
TJ, Forget the emergency brake and adjust the rear brakes first. When they are adjusted correctly see if that helps your gotta pump the brakes problem. If it dosen't then you probably have air in the system and will have to do a bleed to get it out. Also while you are at it pull the rear drums and check their inside diameter and the condition of the brake shoes. Really worn rear brakes (or rear brakes that need adjustment) will cause the pumping before they work problem. You said you have a firm pedal once pumped up so... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
"We are in the process of relocating.... sporadic cell service" Ah...a "serious" matter, then. I'd go with Biff Jones idea for sure. A second distributor...all set up, spare spark plugs, spare fan belt, and a length of spare hose and ignition wire, spare fuel pump, and necessary small bag of tools. The all important flashlite of course and a portable starter/charger as well if you're really out there in the sticks. Of course... what will serve you best is a quality scheduled, preventive maintenance program (and the "right attitude" towards being "situationally aware" in terms of survival in the... MORE
Jim, I carry a complete distributor with the mount & sparkplug wires attached and timed. Should my Pertronics every fail all I have to do is swap it out . Two bolts and two wires and I'm good to go. I also carry a spare set of points in my travel kit. When a bunch of us are driving our cars you never know who might need roadside assistance. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in the "Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 32870... MORE
I'm upgrading my early model .875" bore master cylinder to the later model with the .75" bore and I'm getting it brass sleeved by Joe at Sierra Specialty Auto too, but I have a problem. The plastic internal bits from the .75" MC came out in pieces=85 and I don't see replacements in the VB catalog. Is there an alternate source for these plastic bits, and are they specific to either the clutch or brake side=85 or are both bore assemblies the same? Any suggestions? Cheers & TIA, -Drew "Drew Griffith" 32837... MORE
Mike, Let me start by saying if there are no leaks and the fluid level in the MC dosen't drop, I would suspect your MC. That said, does your brake warning light come on when you turn the ignition on? If it dosen't then the switch is centered. When either the right or left brakes fail the internal shuttle is push to one side or the other to seal off the side which has lost pressure and when it does it activates the switch and the dash light comes on. If your light is on after bleeding the brakes... MORE
Yep.... You got it big guy!!!! Of course, this assumes a reasonably healthy engine pulling decent vacuum. TWO CAVEATS.... 1) If the engine's clapped out and is pullin' lousy vacuum, the pistons will never "top out", spring tension and fully open butterflies notwithstanding and thus....it follows, that.... 2) the entire induction system has got to be "air tight" as well. You don't need a midget under the hood. You need an SU carb tool kit!!! It comes with a little jet centering tool along with "rods" you place within the piston tubes which temporarily take the place of the... MORE
Hi all Looking for some advise. Have a '79 Stock Midget with dual line brake system. Have done work to it in the past year including: Rebuilt master, new rubber hoses all around, good linings, adjusted with nice firm pedal, NO leaks. Brakes seem fine then suddenly pedal goes to the floor with no brakes at all. This happened a few months back so I rebled the system and we have started to drive the car on a more regular basis now. Drove car about 100 mi before it happened. Pedal comes back up to normal with 1 or... MORE
I have a late model Midget, and haven't been able to locate a hot air hose (the hose that connects from under the manifold to the air temp control valve (refer to Haynes p 101, item #16). VB and Moss have them displayed, but not available for sale. Does anyone out there have one that they are willing to part with? Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32726... MORE
so was I, trying to figure out what the mod is for. Can't see any reference to this sort of thing in Vizard, only reducing obstructions such as the butterfly shaft, screws etc. David 32720... MORE
"venturi", Bob! :):) Call it whatever you will...as long as we're all on the same page in the same book! :) I like Alan's suggestion as to the British MG Metro SU carb. set-up alternative to Jen's carb. problem. The stock Metro needle would probably be right in the ballpark as well, considering the Metro is an 80hp Series A. Good one, this...methinks. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32727... MORE
What effect was this mod supposed to have? I would have thought the hole towards the mouth of the carb would allow more air to enter the space above the piston, and reduce the amount of depression, giving less piston lift? David "David Jacobs" 32716... MORE
Cap'n , Personally I've never heard it called an air valve - always a piston. I have a dim recollection that one of the tuning mods for improved acceleration was to drill two 1/82 (3.125 mm) holes in the piston at 90 degrees to the keyway. The existing hole in the side of the piston would be tapped and an aluminium plug screwed in .That was for the HS2 1 1/4" carb for minis though - might work on the midgets also. Somebody will prolly have an SU tuning book and confirm or deny the above. Just my tuppenyworth... MORE
I just want everyone to remember I didn't start this. You can blame Paul and David. Soldier's Letter to Kerry Dear Senator Kerry: Since it has become clear that you will probably be the Democratic nominee for President, I have spent a great deal of time researching your war record and your record as a professional politician. The reason is simple, you aspire to be the Commander in Chief who would lead my sons and their fellow soldiers in time of war. I simply wanted to know if you possess the necessary qualifications to be trusted in that respect.... MORE
From: David Jacobs [mailto: mail@... ] Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2004 13:39 To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: misunderstand???? What effect was this mod supposed to have? I would have thought the hole towards the mouth of the carb would allow more air to enter the space above the piston, and reduce the amount of depression, giving less piston lift? David "Duncan Sinclair" 32719... MORE
I just opened my SU book and it calls it the piston and the butterfly close to the head is called the throttle valve. The piston is more of a variable venture and the butterfly is more of a valve that turns on and off the air/fuel flow. FYI, Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 32714... MORE
abestea Forgive me for laughing at this post - been there, done that bought the T shirt! You really are going to have to change your attitude to working on these cars if you get frustrated just trying to get the front wing off !!!!! Oh my you've got some fun ahead of you! Here's a few pointers - 1/ Throw out the window the idea that any job you do on the car will be done within the timeframe you expect it to take - it takes a lot longer! 2/ Ignore anything in the books that Starts... MORE
Jens, Fixed needles are held rigidly by a grub screw into the piston, but swinging (or biased spring) needles are retained by a separate collar, they are forced by a light spring so that they contact one side of the jet, so no centering is needed, but the jet and needle both wear more than the fixed type. They're not interchangeable because of the retaining ring on the spring type. HS2s used both types, depending on the year. You can check which yours is by the tag number on the carb float bowl (what do you mean, it's not... MORE
The Purpose of Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing leather goods. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on... MORE
I do this too, however I use the appropriate sized "Socket Punch". They are common tools that can be found in any mechanics tool box. I have always did this to ensure that they always seat. Also, prior to reassembly, I always make sure that all of those little grooves that the spring clips seat in ar e REALLY clean. A scribe does wonders here. Another thing, never reuse the ol d spring clips. These are subject to wear always. Matt 76 Midget (in the process of being sold to a person in Brazil) "Matthew Pfeil" 32650... MORE
