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I connected the amp's sense cable to the accessory fuse on the fuse box. It now works! The only odd thing is that it does not come on at the key's accessory position, but the "on" position. This seems to be the case with other "accessories", like my electric radiator fan. Is there some sort of issue here? BTW, there seems to be no requrement for grounding the sense cable individually; there is one big ground cable from the amp for the whole thing. Now that I know that it can work in this way, I may connect the... MORE


how about using one of the earlier hydraulic pressure operated switches? You'd possibly have to re-arrange the pipework to fit in the 4-way union that the switch mounts into. David "David Jacobs" 38030... MORE


Mike, Confession. I think I already damaged the switch. I have however replaced both masters with a problem. Go figure. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 38028... MORE


Dear Listers, Based on traffic lately I don't know who's out there but here goes anyway: My brake light switch has passed on. Ordered a new one from Vicky B and have run into a problem. The manuals I have (Haynes and Official Shop) want one to unscrew the pedal box surround to get the clearance necessary to screw in the new switch without interference. Sounds OK but on inspection it appears my surround is welded down. Short of breaking the welds I don't see any way to screw in the new switch without hammerassing (sp?) it in and... MORE


In an effort to keep things looking reasonably original, I am planning to re-do my beat-up console and install an NOS AM radio, map light, etc. into my 78 midget. I also have a nice amp tucked under the passenger seat that was last used with the cassette player that used to live in the car. My intention is to have the AM radio work as designed with a little speaker in the console, and use the amp, with speakers mounted behind, with a portable device of some sort, probably an mp3 player. MY QUESTION IS, what do I... MORE


To do properly it is a hell of a lot of work, apart from needing to replace both front wings and having to cut off the bumper mountings for the front bumpers, you need to replace the entire rear panel and cut out the rear bumper mountings. you can go cheapskate and put the rubber bumper indicators into the hole in the RB wings and make up a flush grill that sits in the front nd of the opening at the front and just leave the rear with some fabrication to the area below the indicator units, but the... MORE


Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE


I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE


I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE


G'day Wolf The seat bases and backs are totally interchangeable, until 1966 when they went to tubular frames. The bases are different, but only because the Bugeye seats had a mesh insert at the base (for drainage?). Otherwise the size and shape are identical to Mk II and Mk III seats. I will send you pictures. The backs are the same size, shape and curvature, but the later ones were a little stiffer. Bottom line is: strip off the vinyl and foam, clean and paint them, and re-trim them in the Bugeye pattern, and no-one will ever know the... MORE


Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE


Hi Everyone, I'm new to the list and happy to have found you guys. I have a 62 Sprite (1098) that is in pretty good, 'hobbyist' level shape that I am trying to bring back to a professional level of quality. I've owned several brit cars over the years - Midgets and Spitfires. This is my first Austin Healey. My sprite looks great at about 10 feet but when you get a little closer, you can see the substandard body work ripples in the back. It has mismatched door releases, and late model seats. Beyond that, it runs good... MORE


I asked the synthetic oil question on the Volvo board recently. On that board is a long experienced Volvo mechanic who goes by the handle nickcleak. He shares his extensive knowledge freely, and it is his opinion that synthetic offers little advantage and only costs more. He recommends Castrol. FWIW "joe blxfstz" 37943... MORE


Steve, I would try moulding the replacement piece from something like "knead it putty", sets very strong. But as your problem is going to be the strength of the join between the original piece and the putty, I would cut out some small support strips or pieces and attach them with small screws across the original body of the switch and putty. That way its the metal thats bearing the force of levering the switch and not the joining face between the plastic and putty which I don't think will ever be very strong. Cheers, Eriks "Eriks Skinkis" 37934... MORE


Hi, Jed! I live in a nice neighborhood, and my `79 Midget is garaged. However, I sometimes park in less than desirable areas and I have had issues with young jerks throwing beer cans, McDonald's waste, etc. into the cockpit of my car if not covered with a tonneau - in broad daylight in mall parking lots, etc.!! Also had a radio stolen once (before the car was garaged). The idiots tore open the top with a knife to crawl into the cockpit and ripped out the entire console. Radio was a Blaupunt with a "code," so it was... MORE


Any way to get in from behind the seats? Even cutting a hole that could be covered up later? Bob Hi Jim, Have you tried pushing down on the boot lid hard to crush the gasket a bit and release the lock from the hook while pushing the button? Divorce the car? Pa "Robert D. Gardner" 37893... MORE


Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE


I recently bought a truck bed from a 60-66 Chevy longbed pickup. The truck bed had been converted to a general purpose trailer, in fact I towed it home from AZ. I am only interested in the side panels which I will be removing soon. That leaves a very solid 8'-9' chassis for a heavy duty trailer. You just need to add flat base (plywood?). If someone is interested in making themselves a solid (and very cheap!) trailer for towing (race car, trailer queen, motorcycles, etc) now is their chance. First person interested & picking it up can have... MORE


G'day guys There are some NOS panels on eBay for very cheap prices. They are worth a lot more than the starting price, and one of you guys should grab them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7984966166&category=33644 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7984965514&fromMakeTrack=true avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37764... MORE


Are the head rests uspposed to completly come off my 76 Midget? I have been pulling at them but they don't seem to want to come off. Are they supposed to? is there a button or catch to press? I ask because I recently bought a tonneau without the headrest holes/covers and though I would just be able to remove the head rests will the cover is on am I wrong? "gav_newman" 37759... MORE


The Cambridgeshire Midget and Sprite Club is staging a treasure hunt starting from Haddon services near Peterborough (UK) Junction 17 A1 M at 10 am on Sunday (3/07/05). The clues will not be too demanding, just a bit of fun really but it will take you to some interesting and unexpected places. The run will take 3 to 4 hours and finish up at a pleasant village pub which serves good food at reasonable prices all day. There will be a small charge of just one UK pound per car to cover the cost of the trophy (yes there... MORE


This can be a problem, but in California, you can get a mechanics lean title with out too much trouble. I did it on a '59 Mercedes 190 I bought for $50. As is, rod through block, no rust, not bad interior and of course no paper or plates. First I did a DMV search and stolen car search with no results. Then I told DMV that a friend brought it by for me to work on 10 years ago, I did $1,000 of work on the car and he never paid me or never came back. Last I... MORE


"Pity it has the wrong seats" True. But as a daily driver, the later seats make for more comfort consider ing as well the rake is adjustable and you can always remove the headrests for a more "yesterday" look? Nice car otherwise, eh? Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37683... MORE


Pity it has the wrong seats in it.. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37681... MORE


Mostly restored, mint interior, low miles, Brooklands Green, new tires, brakes, SS braided brake lines, clean, 1500 engine, been de- smoggedm has Weber 2 bl. side draft(DCOE) headers, clean tight tranny, new top/boot cover, NO RUST, NEVER WRECKED, wood steering wheel & MG shift knob, Clairon AM-FM cassete deck, drives great. $3900. In Arizona U.S.A.see photos section hdsteveg@yahoo. "hdsteveg" 37585... MORE