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Wes Not on my car they don't no, which is a GAN5 MK3 1970 They're part of the rear loom, which connects into the main loom via some bullet connectors near the indicator switch. From what I recall, the rear loom runs along the sill up into the side well by the rear wheel arch and then comes out by the rear tail lights, and runs along the back of the boot. Sorry to be a little vague, but my looms off my car and I can't remember exactly. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27309... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
Hi David- Couldn't access the pic at all. Thanks for your help. I am still trying to figure out the attachment problem on my car. When I started my restoration, I stripped the car down to bare metal. Found the right wing had a bit of repair. All other panels were perfect. Sought out a NOS wing in England and was lucky enough to find one (this was about 8 years ago). Bought it, bolted it on, and the fit was excellent. But for some reason, the wing does not have a hole drilled in the rain gutter for... MORE
Yes, Chris.... Makes perfect sense. On my older LBC's the VIN numbers were all "indented" as in stamped from the front. On my '74 Midget, the VIN plate was riveted to the metal by the left windshield post, forward of the "rolled" top portion of the dash, just to the left of the LH defroster duct. The VIN number was "raised" from the metal tab. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27298... MORE
Wes I know where you're coming from here. My dash was in pretty poor condition, with extra holes. Some PO who seemed to think there was a need to light his cigarette's on the move put a cigaratte Lighter in the hole where the ignition went, sadly for me, the cigarette lighter was larger than the ignition, so the hole was widened out by about 1/4" all the way round. Another PO who wanted to see how well his battery was charging put an ammeter in the space where the MG Badge went, this was then moved to the... MORE
Got the dashboard out the other day as its getting now to that stage in the rebuild,but had forgot about all the extra holes that had been put in it over the years from the last owners,like the extrta two 2" holes and four switch holes oh well,so had a ring round no new units at presant but we can supply you with a recondioned unit,well the price was not bad so said send it,well it came today and in my mind had it fitted by tea time clocks and all,out of the box it came and back in... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Remember to do as they ask and send them lots of your hard earned money to pay for whatever admin costs they have and to pay for those silly taxes they inform you about. Don't worry the winnings they say are yours will more than cover what you may send them. And when that guy from Nigeria asks for your bank account give it to him one more time. Heh heh heh. Ian "mcalpine" 27231... MORE
I understood that the early cars had hand stamped numbers (cut, I believe the expression is) from the top . But the later cars had them stamped from the back resulting in raised figures that in theory could not overstamped. An anti theft device to stop people changing the identity of the car. I understand that there's a place in Brum (where else?) that supplies the c orrect VIN plates and know a place that can stamp the raised letters. I hav e the details somewhere. Aside, my MG metro has the VIN plate with raised letters riveted to... MORE
Ah, Duncan... You've got an "early" timing chain cover on a "later" engine. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27200... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Eeg Thank you and I'm pleased to hear your new sill is going to stay on! And yes I've already sprayed the underneath in topcoat, it's all done, as well as the engine bay and inside. I'm just working on the outer panels now. Repair panels are notorious for poor fit, some suppliers of repair panels are better than others (yes Ashley Hinton, you're one of the good ones:) and pretty much all of them require some form of fettling to make them fit correctly. To be honest 2 or 3 mil really doesn't sound that much, are you... MORE
Hi All, I have posted a directory (00 - Spotlights) to show you my new spots on my '64 Sprite. They are Lucas FT6's with replacement Sealed Beams. Wired in parallel, I put a Lucas toggle switch to the right of the steering wheel on the dash. In the end I made the brackets out of aluminium to fashion the metal and then took it to a metal worker who made a set for =A310 out of 3mm Stainless Steel. Thought you might like to see the end product. Thanks for your help Max "Max" 27129... MORE
Guys... Isn't there an anti-drainback valve in the 948's mechanical fuel pump? It's been 40 years for me so I've forgotten! :) But I think there may be one, Chris. And with no disrespect intended Chris, why would anyone run an engine with possible fuel leaks in the engine compartment? You don't EVER want to do this, man. Disaster doesn't always strike the "other guy"! :) I mean if you look just below the carbs, you'll find the exhaust system!! Speaking of which.... Invest in a portable FIREX as well that you can affix to, and carry around in... MORE
I'm not sure of the compression ratio but the head has been milled 0.080 and the cylinders are 0.040 larger. I'm using the valves for the 1098 head and running 1 1/2 SU's. The combustion chambers have all been opened up and balanced but I don't remember their size and won't be able to measure them until I get the new valve guides and lead free valve seats installed. I'll have to compute the compression ratio when I can make careful measurements. Thanks for the info. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 27116... MORE
Frank has left the building.......... ...... leaving in his wake welded up patch panels, grinded, sanded, spot-primed, de-rusted 71 body. That's only because we didn't get here until 8AM, I didn't have any filler, and we ate lunch, and we talked about water pumps repairs, cleaned some of the weekend wreckage, went for a tool buying trip, and he had to leave by 2PM. Whew. And the shirts DO look great. Peter C "Peter C." 27108... MORE
Since we're on the subject of hubs, bearings and seals I have a question. When I removed the rear hubs on my 73 Midget I found the seals directly against the back of the bearings. There appears to be a seat for the seal at the back (inside) of the hub just as there is a seat for the bearing in the front(outside). Should the seal be directly behind and touching the bearing or should it be seated at the back of the hub leaving a space between the two? Also, each hub had the seal facing in different... MORE
Well, I just couldn't stand no being in debt. I had come into a small (and I mean small) amount of cash recently due to the sell of a piece of property in a ghetto. I spent a weekend recently at Elizabeth and Fisher Jones place in the hill country of Texas (take your hat off when you say that). I was there to persue Bambi and his kin with my cousin and grandson. We took a nice buck, but that's another story. Those of you who have had the pleasure of seeing the Jones' place will agree (unless... MORE
Later coils marked + & -, On cars wired with a negative ground system, these connections should be + to ignition switch, and - to distributor/contact points. "Brent Wolf" 27072... MORE
From: Brent Wolf [mailto: wolfbj@... ] Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 10:19 PM To: Richard Rivenbark; Spridgets; Midgetsprite Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1275 coil Later coils marked + & -, On cars wired with a negative ground system, these connections should be + to ignition switch, and - to distributor/contact points. "Duncan Sinclair" 27073... MORE
Roger Thanks, I think I understand. I first thought, what bolts? going in where? Then I realised you must be referring to the bolts that bolt the spring Seat onto the Wishbone - right? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27055... MORE
Hi guys Thought I'd update you all once again on how the restoration is going. I've taken a few more pics that can be seen on the Yahoo Group Webpage in the Nigel-71-Midget Folder. Basically the rear axle is back on the car with the rear springs and backplates, brakes and hubs all reassembled. I've also nearly completed the left hand side (RHD Drive) front suspension. Putting the front and rear suspension components back on before all the spraying is finished is a bit out of sequence, but due to the restriction on space within my garage, I now... MORE
Put a meter across the battery, it should show 14 volts (ish) when engine running 1500 rpm (fast idle). Gradually switch on more and more electrics and make sure the alternator is supplying the power and holding the battery at 14 volts. I have had a broken winding, one diode gone and worn brushes all of which prevent the alternator proving all the amps it should. Terry "terry.isherwood" 27045... MORE
All offers will be considered. The car is pictured here but is now in running condition. I will post the new photo under SAVEDBLACK79MG. I have a rip free covertable top on it, and good black paint on it. The engine and transmission work good, I need to adjust the engine to run at normal speed. The brakes work and all the lights work. I just purchased the boot cover for the convertable top (used). The car still needs the inside finished. I have two mazda seats in working order to go in. Thank You . MY E-MAIL OOOHAYNOW1@...... MORE
