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in fact, you can't actually remove the dash completely till you've taken the dual gauge out, because you can't separate the temperature capillary; you have to unscrew it from the engine end and thread it all back through the bulkhead. "David Jacobs" 23358... MORE
I've completed converting my Bugeye over to negative ground, but I am having a problem converting the tachometer from positive ground to negative. The only tach conversion instructions I have been able to find on the internet or books are for a different type (earlier positive ground tachs?) and the configuration & colored wires do not match. I need advise from Listers who have done a similar tach conversion in past. First ... tach is not original Bugeye. My tach is from a later Mark 2 Sprite (HAN7), specifically a Smiths RVI2401/00 Positive Earth. The white wires wrap around... MORE
just purchased a 68 midget. the water/oil gauge does not work and want to repair or replace it. In doing so, I wanted to remove the dash to give me easier access to the faulty gauge but cant find how the top of the dash is attached to the car. service manuals talk about four screws along the top of the dash but haven't found them. any suggestions on how to approach this? "MARK " 23355... MORE
mid page at http://www.teglerizer.com/midgetstuff/interior2.htm you can see the line of holes where the dash bolts to the sheet metal. (pictures of dashboard not installed mid page) You should be able to 'approximate' where to start looking for the bolts by comparing stuff lower down. also...at the bottom of the dash, you have a few 'straps' that are the lower mounts for the dash. Remove the screws on those mounts and you can 'bend' the dash out about 2" to more easily access the rear of the gauges. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 23364... MORE
THAT task.... (removing the dash) was one of the few times I was willing to fork out $$ for a 'specialized' tool to get them out. The 4 nuts are right at the very top edge of the dash. They are REALLY a pain to remove or even get a conventional wrench or socket onto. The tool I bought was a socket wrench... but with a twist. The end of the socket wrench you hold onto... has a small 'butterlfy' handle on it. When you hold the wrench in place and rotate the little handle, it'll turns the socket.... MORE
Nice job Paul, I must admit I felt lucky in that none of the upper dash screws and bolts were frozen and once loose a bit I was able to finger them the rest of the way off. Don "Don May" 23367... MORE
You do not have to remove the dash to get the gauge out. Reach under the dash, remove the bracket holding the gauge in place, pull the gauge out of the dash just enough to remove the oil line, remove the cap. tube from the radiator, then pull the system out via the hole in the dash. Replace in the opposite manner. Zegrod53@... 23356... MORE
Hi I think I might be to late put my two pennyworth in. I have just done the very same job on my Mk1 Midget and it is exactly the same.The rear end was fixed to a point behind the trim with a self tapping screw.The frount and had a small bracket that fixed around the trim and bolted to one of the nuts that are attached to the padding on top of the dash.As far as the trim around the door space is concerned this is fixed by little clips with barbs on them that clip on to... MORE
Thanks to all for the advice and humor. I will not start it indoors on a carpet floor and if in if in a grocery cart will do so on level ground. At this point I think I will just push it under the big oak tree out back and use block and tackle to lower it back in and out as necessary. It is actually the transmission I am most concerned with testing before lowering it back in. I had the engine running fine before I took it out. Don "Don May" 23328... MORE
They just stopped by Placerville on Hwy 50 on their way to Gardnerville Nevada and eventually Wisconsin - or was that Minnesota? This is the cross-country pickup of a 71 Midget from Southern California. They've had a hot-running car, which fits the 100+ weather, but the 14lb cap is holding and, tho it dribbles once stopped, seems to be holding pressure fine. The fancy wide wheels are a bit too wide and the left rear tire has been rubbing, but a service stop in Fairfield on the way across California saw some adjustment for clearance. I wish now I'd... MORE
The ignition switch is giving me problems. It no longer springs back to the on position after starting the engine and the starter doesn't disengage when the switch is manually moved from start to on. I have taken the steering wheel off and am stuck at the plastic cowling surrounding the switch. The turn signal stem won't let me pull out the left 1/2 of the cowling and the right 1/2 seems to be stuck in place also. Any tips on getting the faulty switch out of the column? I also would appreciate any MG parts websites in the... MORE
Don't! If there is water in it you need room for a header - for expansion - and that means all the hoses etc to give proper circulation, and you will be able to run it only for a few moments, and if there is not a header - how much money did you say you want to throw away on an unnecessary rebuild? On the other hand, why not take it apart and have a peek whilst you are there and save all the trouble and aggravation! Just a look inside the rocker cover will give you a... MORE
I must apologize to those who followed my progress report, just don't have the time nor the room anymore to work on my 67 Sprite. It is a 67 Sprite that is torn down and middle of restoration. It has a lot of body work done already and shouldn't take much to finish. The shell and doors were professionally sandblasted to bare metal. (cost over $400 for just that). Car is apart but well cataloged, small parts in Ziplock bags with labels, bigger parts in categorized plastic bins, shell on a dolly, new VB parts used cost over $600.... MORE
That reminded me of a funny story my father told me. It seems a fellow had rebuilt a Midget motor and clamped it to some timbers to start it before he installed it in the car. He was doing this in an old house trailer that had a carpet floor (don't ask me why). Every thing was fine until he rev'ed the engine and it tipped over. The flywheel then snagged the carpet and ripped it loose from the floor. The motor ended up wrapped up in the carpet at the door of the trailer. The motor was unharmed... MORE
Don.... Is the water pump is operable and on the engine and belt hooked up? If so, hook up a hose (tape, whatever) and "feed" the motor thru the thermo cover letting it run out the back (block heater outlet) using a normal hose hooked up to a spigot at low flow velocity? And I wouldn't take a chance on a malfunctioning stadt, either. Go stadtless. Otherwise I have no clue since in summer temps., mine warms up virtually in a heartbeat...really. But I don't think this is the critical aspect of it, anyway. You see, without water circulation... MORE
Hi, Hamondale.... This does seem like overkill with all the excellent lining material we have today for the street, doesn't it? However, once he's got the biasing valve in place, it will sure stop! And the "quicker" you can stop, the "quicker" you can go for a longer period of time in distance. So I think I MAY have a handle on why he is doing this in a street application. You can only get so "hard" on linings before they lose their effectiveness 'cause you can't keep them "hot" enough on the street at "normal" speeds in "normal"... MORE
I think we need a little more detail. However a weird thing you need to know is what happens at each end. The rear of the seal comes off the seem and is trapped behind the rear trim panel, much cheaper than the fancy moulding used on later cars. The front end disappears under the dash though I can't remember how it is held. "Jeremy Cogman" 23241... MORE
I have a 61 Bugeye and need instructions on how to properly install door seal on my cas. So far I have gained nothing but frustration in my attempts to do this. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks "bucks6125" 23236... MORE
On the unit I have there are three bend over metal tabs holding the case sections together. Carefully bend them up to pull the unit apart. There may be some resistance at the float shaft end that looks like a slotted screw to pass through the hole, a little cleaning there and you can pull the case apart enough to remove the brass spring. I also rubbed the ends of the spring on fine sand paper and cleaned the case surface around the shaft hole where the spring contacts the case and the surfaces of the round bushing next... MORE
If anybody has installed a Rivergate in a MK II Sprite, what do you do about the adjustment to the metal shifter housing cover and boot so that it looks fairly original and not "butchered" up. Is there another boot out there that you can recommend? This thing wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. Also, if anybody decides to order one, make sure that you know what size crank is in there or you'll get the wrong seal AND they have to know if your car is RHD or LHD. I didn't tell them and got... MORE
Hi Jack in Texas.... We had to cut a larger hole in the shifter cover to accomodate the gate positons of the Datsun box using the Sprite shifter which we adopted to the Datsun tranny. I found an MGB rubber gaitor worked just fine for the larger hole. The Rivergate people ARE great to work with!! No doubt about it. "Old style" business ethics coupled with a great attitude with respect to customer service! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23189... MORE
I bought a COMPRESSOR and a set of 18 wheeler type 3' Air Trumpets for mine. Of course I had to buy a small trailer to mount them on....and some of that "curly air tubing" fitted through a 12 volt solenoid from the compressor, and a relay wired through a nifty piece of "curly wire" 16ga to be exact, activated by a a 500 Amp Rated Knife Switch on the dash, along with an extension handle, because it was too hard to reach in an emergency. ;o) David A. Stevens Jr. Utilities Engineer II NYS Office Of General Services... MORE
Bill, Unless I am mistaken, the original horn switches have heavy contacts that can handle the amperage necessary to operate the horn. The "curly wire" you are interested in is of a very light guage. I don't believe that it would handle the current that it takes to make the old "beep-n-tooter" work without overheating. I would suggest that the curly wire would work well if you incorporated a relay to send power to the horn instead of direct wiring. Again, I defer to the experts in the group to make the appropriate corrections. Cheers Dewd David A. Stevens... MORE
Eeg Nope, not used any weld-through primer, as per your experience of it, I've heard it doesn't work too well. I do coat the inside of each panel with primer, leaving enough bare metal to weld to, before I weld them in. As far as seams are concerned, I intend to coat each one with brushable seam sealer after i've applied a few coats of primer. All box sections will then be protected with waxoyl. I think this will be enough to keep rust at bay for a good few years. I'm actually doing a full bare-metal re-spray, ie... MORE
Hi Nigel, Glad to see you are making progress at last! I see you have had a bit of welding to do - - - not quite as much as I had on my '71, but not far short! I never heard back from you if you wanted those 2 repair panels, but see that you did replace the door hinge units both sides. You could have had that one of mine you know. Still on offer (postage only) is the front wing lower corner repair if you want it. Next stage with mine was to get it blasted,... MORE
