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Jens... Whew!! Glad you found the problem and it's a "cheapo" fix. A new engine will give around 75psi cold and this will drop to about 65-70 @ 3,000 rpm when hot. Even this (when hot) is too high. Shorten the spring until you get the above figures for a start. Then purchase an "oil pressure regulator" and fit this instead, using the aforementioned spring. The regulator will not affect the idling oil pressure, just the max pressure. Set initially to 60 @ 3,000rpm "hot" then as the engine wears over time/miles, you can "dial up" the max, keeping... MORE


Bob i have no plans of removing the seat, just the plunger that sits infront of the spring. After taking the spring out the metal plunger (valve) is still inside playing a bugger to come out. Captn, we did think of your suggestion as a possible solution but couldnt qite immagine the consequenses. You recon this is ok do you! PS! i have also ordered the new spring to suit the steel ball valve. As far as i remember when fitting it the original valve was made of aluminium which is rather a soft metall compared to steel, i... MORE


Jim we bought a 2nd hand hardtop for the MGF and it was fitted until last week . It now occupies our daughters bedroom !!! the garage and sheds are for midget and sprite stuff !!!! The midgets hardtop is hidden under some shrubs in the garden !!!! I was amazed at how much noise deadening and extra rearward visibility you get with a hardtop relative to a soft top. Having a cream coloured interior lining makes everything appear lighter and less claustrophobic than the black soft top. The MGF tends to do more miles commuting in winter when... MORE


Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE


Initially I was looking for a windblocker for an MGF - one that fixes behind the seats. I came across this site and curiously had a look to see what (if anything at all) was available for a MG Midget This is what came up. http://www.team- performance.com/ViewPartinfo.cfm?parttype=150649 alan "Alan" 32539... MORE


What? Is this a joke I'm misunderstanding? Or is that the wrong link? Are you looking for a wind-blocker to put behind the seat (to keep wind off the back of your head)? If so then lbcarco.com sells them. "Trevor Jessie" 32537... MORE


Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE


Thanks much for the input. I thought about replacing with longer studs as Paul suggests, but getting to the securing nut at the base is a really tight fit with the rockers there. Can't get an open end or box wrench in there to loosen it. I would really like to avoid removing rockers to do this. So I'm thinking more along the lines of what Jim was suggesting. I may have to cut down the existing stud and retap to accomodate the extender nut. As it is now, with the new cover, the top of he stud is... MORE


Nelson, Thanks for the idea. That is a good alternative, but I'm hoping to avoid having to redrill the holes in the cover to accomodate the stud extension, which will have to be a slightly larger diameter. Any other thoughts welcome. Thanks again, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32517... MORE


Hi Pete, Looking at the 1500 parts book, it appears that the valve cover stud does nothing but hold the valve cover. It's not like the rocker arm studs. So why don't you go out and buy a longer stud to do the job. When I need a longer bolt, I go get one!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32518... MORE


Naturally, Mike.. That's why we have "caution" (yellow) and "warning" (red) lights in the cockpit. Yor're supposed to be worried..."worried" means you're a normal, reasonably intelligent human being who percieves there's a problem which needs attention. BTW, when was the last time you changed the oil filter? 'Cause if you don't find anything wrong with the "sender" for that light, this is something which I would pretty much do automatically as the next step, whether the filter was new or not. You just never know when you are going to get a "bum" part. And what weight oil are... MORE


Fellow spridgeteers, I recently purchased a new chrome valve cover and gasket for my 1500, but unable to install because the studs are too short. Has anyone any experience with replacing these with longer studs to accomodate the height? I need an extra .5-1". Any or all advice appreciated. Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32500... MORE


Subject: Windows XP NJ edition Message: Windas XP Dear Consumas: It has come ta our attention dat a cupola copies of the Windows XP New Joisey Edition may have been shipped outsida Joisey. If ya got one a dese, youse may need some help unnerstanin da commands. Da Joisey edition may be recognized by da unique openin' screen. It reads: "Windas XP", wit a background pitcha a Hoboken. When youse start da program, instead a da usual stringy like music, you hear a little Springsteen. It's also shipped wit Sopranos screen sava. Please also note: Recycle bin is labeled... MORE


Well, I thought I had a local buyer for my Sprite, but it seems to not have worked out. I thought I would check the list and see if I can get an opinion on what it might be worth. Itsa: 1969 Sprite(clear Texas title says 1964, but a typo must have occurred way back before I purchased it in New Mexico about 3 or 4 years ago) Number plate (beneath carbs) matches vin on title. You may recall: It's stuck in first gear. Crap!! Stuff I have done: Porsche 914 Seats Roll bar Tonneau cover adapted (lots of... MORE


Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The bearing nut yielded to a pipe wrench with an 18 inch pipe handle extension. So much for the left side. Now its back to the right side and an uncooperative brake drum. One of the retaining screws came out easily but the second one has thus far resisted my efforts. It will be given more time in its Aerokroil bath before I get out the drill. Nelson - having frustrating fun "witstock7" 32448... MORE


Hi all I am looking for parts for a 77 rubber bumper midget, things I need are the steering column cover the switch for the panel lights and a set of door locks with keys, I know I could buy these new but I am on a budget and if anyone has any spares cheep it would be much appreciated. Thanks Graham "x192000" 32441... MORE


My 79 just started this weird thing: when starting up, the red light comes on and stays on for approx. one minute. Revving the engine slightly makes it glow brighter. The altenator belt is adjusted properly, the connections all seem clean and tight, and it's a six month old Diehard, so I don't think it's the battery. Any of you good folks have any ideas? Is this harmful? It runs perfectly, lights, heater, wipers, all function normally, but it's never done this before... Thanks, George "chuibuddy" 32420... MORE


The lack of door handles sounds right, but the biggest and most definitive mark of a Mk1 midget is the rear suspension, and its also the main cause of death (to the car!) if it's a mk1 midget it will have quarter elliptic springs not semi ecliptics like later sprites/midgets. I also suspect the MkII MG and MkIII AH had an electric rev counter, which the Mk1/II did not, this is a mechanical device driven off the back of the dynamo from a reduction device. IIRC a 948 A-Series engine number starts with a 9, the 1098 starts with... MORE


If the switch is in fact dead (it's a normally closed switch), then you need to unbolt the pedal box enough to rotate the switch out after disconnecting the wires. Gerard "gerardchateau" 32406... MORE


Finally got a chance to follow the wires for the non working brake lights. The stoplight switch doesn't complete the circuit and light the brake lights, they do work when I use a jumper wire and short across the switch. It is located on the end of the MC housing inside the engine compartment. Anyone know the tricks to replacing the switch? TIA Neil "Neil Hernan" 32401... MORE


David, I think you stated it backwards. Typically the disc has a slightly offset hub with the springs protruding away from the center line. Those springs are what might interfere with the flywheel bolts, so they should be tucked into the clutch cover. Usually, if you put the plate up to the flywheel wrong side to it, the springs will contact the bolts. Just flip it over then. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32399... MORE


When I first got the bug for these cars, it was with a 65 Midget. I bought a 73 with no title for the drivetrain, and put it in the 65. The 1275 HAD t he hookup on the filter mount (spin on) so I just hooked the wire to it lik e it showed in the Bentley. A few months later, on my way home from Fort Wo rth, the light came on. That had me sweating till I got home, checked the b ook, and saw that all I needed to do was change the oil. This... MORE


Brad, my rebuilt 1275 smoked blue and I followed all sorts of advice from list members to get it right before I finally fixed it. Of many "cures" attemted, the two that made the most difference in my case were: 1. Replacement of the rocker shaft. Too much oil was leaking out of the rocker bushes. It was apparent by running the engine with the rocker cover off. I left the cork gasket seated on the head and let the engine run at fast tickover. It leaked so fast that it soon created a lake on the top of... MORE


I think the spacers are welded to the RB shell, so you'd have to cut them off - make sure they don't contain the threaded holes for your mounting plates! As far as I remember, on my 1275, the rear half of the loom joins the front inside the cockpit, not the engine bay. David "David Jacobs" 32330... MORE


So I can dump the spacers on the rear mountings with no ill effects?. BTW anyone know where the wring loom runs? my shall is now in primer waiting for colour, and I have dug the loom out, had a look at it and found it to be serviceable, and I now realize I have no idea where it runs. I vaguely remember the section hath runs to the rear ran down the drivers side (UK car) and there was a bit that ran under the dash witch seems to plug into the front loom on the passenger side... MORE