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Nigel, You've removed the dust cover and the cotter pin (you call it something else) and the castleated nut, right? I believe you have to remove the caliper so the whole hub will slide off. Then you take a suitable drift and drive out the bearing from the other side. This is working from a 35 year old memory of having done this, but I'm sure I will be corrected if necessary. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives... MORE
Bill, if you feel up to working out all that complicated geometry, for the mechanism, you might give it a go, but I should warn you Les Ireland and the Healey team spent YEARS perfecting that design! The packaway type from a '62 probably won't fit - the 'screen is different; one from a 64-66 would certainly fit the windscreen and door glass, though you'd have to do some serious modifcation to the rear of the cockpit area to get it to fit there. A better solution might be to admit defeat and get a roll bar that still... MORE
Just thought I'd introduce myself as I am new to the list. I recently began the restoration of a 61 Midget. The outer panels are excellent with rust free fenders, hood and trunk lid. That's the good news. The bad news is the floor and sills. The sills aren't terrible but the floor is almost non-existent. I'm going to be replacing the rear spring mounts etc. as well. The car was canabalised a bit so a few parts are missing. Ebay has been helpful for those. I may make pleas to the list for parts on occassion. I'll be... MORE
Hmmmmmm. Interesting, the beginnings of a bullet proof LBC. Lexan side curtains, Kevlar top, Carbon fiber body panels, We may have something going here............ Perhaps we could sell them in Iraq.........lololol Bob in San Diego Age is a very high price to pay for maturity! "Robert D. Gardner" 26405... MORE
I just acquired some sheet Lexan and would like to use it to replace the old plastic window panes on my MK 2 Sprite. Does anyone have any recommendations for the type of adhesive to use (or to not use) to attach the handles onto the sliding sections? I'm currently thinking about using super glue but will do a test first unless I am informed that this is a no-no. Nelson "witstock7" 26379... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
G'day Cap'n I think it's RON. There is only one octane measurement over here, down under. And yes, it's unleaded. With one of those in-line zinc fuel catalyst thingies to protect the valve seats. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 26237... MORE
couple of years? what on earth for? did they get it wrong the first four times?! David The car 4 & the Hardtop 5. Yes, runs, chips, runs, bubbling, picking up the hardtop when wet with dirty hands, & 1 on the hardtop, my fault by my putting car cover on to keep neighbors cat off the car & top when the top wasn't cured enough and temp. got to 95. "Robert Webb" 26231... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
David I sympathise, I've been there. My current restoration efforts are at the second attempt. I did start working on the car about 13 years ago and welded in the new inner and outer sill and footwell side panel and had the new floor in position but not welded. I soon found other distractions and never went back to it! I only really, early this year, garnered the enthusiasm to get back to it. The only inspiration I can offer is to think of the car as 'sections of work' rather than an entire mass of 'things to do'.... MORE
Good news, my baby is sitting on the drive looking rather nice. I was goin g to replace the outer sills my self until I was quoted =A3100 a side, incl uding painting by a local garage. Since I am at work full time I said do i t. That was at the begining of the year. It was done as a fill in when th e guy was not busy, or on holiday. Then it grew to repairs to the inner si lls, footwell side panels, a new wing, repairs to the A posts and rear wing s,... MORE
David No, thats not what I'm saying, but I can see why you might interpret in that way. What I meant was when you consider the amount of time thats already gone into this project (mostly on rebuilding the bodywork and preparation for paint) if I'd used a Heritage Shell (the body rebuilding stage would not apply, and the preparation for paint would be minimal) the stage I'm at now (which is about 3/4 the way to finishing in terms of the total amount of work) would be equal to about 1/4 of the way to finishing (in terms... MORE
I thought the cover had a tongue which was pinched by the U bolt. This part has been NLA for over a decade, have you managed to buy some new ones? We are talking about AHA6418 aren't we? "Jeremy Cogman" 26141... MORE
A bit of advice please. Reference the cover which is fitted over the spring box after the springs are inserted: Does this cover have to be welded in place or do the fixing bolts provide sufficient clamping force to disperse the forces encountered in this area? The old cover was welded, however so was anything else that could & should have moved! Thanks in anticipation. Phil Nicholl '59 Frog. Rugby, England. "Philip R Nicholl" 26138... MORE
Cap'n: Thanks for your help. The canister vent lines are clean and you can blow thru them. (I assume you mean the lines that run from secondary canister to behind inner fender.) I do wonder about the vent pipe to seperator hook up in trunk. I renewed these rubber lines, would it make a difference if the were possibly crossed? I will switch them and see. As you mentioned this model should have a tight fitting cap with rubber gasket... which it does not have at this moment. In the meantime I have dropped the tank again, removed sending... MORE
Hi Guys Just bought a 77 Rubber Bumper Midget to restore, have done other cars before, but this is the first MG, could anyone tell me of a good supplier of spares and repair panels in the UK. Thanks Graham. ps I am going to join the MG owners club. "x192000" 26099... MORE
I've started to install the carpet in the Sprite and found that the heel pad on the driver side might be in the wrong place, to keep it in the right place the end of the carpet on the firewall does not come up to the right level. This is indicated by the location of the carpet snaps. Does anyone have an image of the drivers side carpet installation that they could send me? Thanks. Martyn meastwood1@ cfl.rr.com "Martyn Eastwood" 26097... MORE
Martin, where does the rear edge come in relation to the cross member in front of the seat when the heel pad is in the 'correct' position? That's what I used as a datum point for mine. David "David Jacobs" 26117... MORE
True The worst things are letters not straight and irregular body panel gaps. Eyes and the brain are incredibly good at spotting the smallest errors. It spoils all the effort in eliminating the tin worm. Terry "terry.isherwood" 26102... MORE
Rather than use a centre punch and hammer, try a 'push punch' or automatic centre punch, with a large slightly curved dolly behind the panel. It can also work quite well it you use a lump of lead - or similar - behind the panel. When punched, use a small diameter drill at high speed to provide space for the web of the larger drill for the holes. This method has worked well for me on curved and shaped panels before. If you have a good automatic punch you can set the force. Try it out on a bit... MORE
Good Morning or afternoon, I have a perplexing problem and have come to the fountain of knowledge for help. I purchased a new ignition swithch for my 63 Sprite. The old one has three spades coming out of the back. the new one has 4. On the old one, 2 white wires are soldered together and are attached to the last spade on the right as you view it from behind the dash. The middle spade also has a single white wire on it and the last one has the brown and blue wire attached. What do I do... MORE
Bob I don't know of any, and I think you're unlikely to find any. Having said that, it can be done. There was a company in England making Frogeye bodyshells from new heritage bodyshells, so it is possible. The only other company I know doing anything like this is - http://banmoco.co.uk/sprint/ But this is based on a mini, and uses fibreglass panels. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26059... MORE
Hmmm, could be several things. With these plastic filters, as I recall, the fuel flows into the centre of the filter element and outwards so you don't see when it's full of clag. T hat said, you can drive on long cruising stretches fine. IT could therefore be the fuel pump. This is (if it is as standard) mounte d under the 'rear seat' and has a crude (but effective electro-mechanical m echanism akin to a doorbell. IT contains a set of electrical points which detoriarate over time which can lead to the pump 'sticking'. Often a bang on... MORE
G'day Linda, Nigel et al My Austin Sprite is AAN10/87699G, body number 105002, engine 12CEDAH17223, built 2 June 1971. Midnight Blue. The most interesting thing about the car, however, is that it is a RWA - round wheel arch. According to all the texts, RWA cars were only ever badged as MG Midgets. But this car is definitely a Sprite (AAN10 prefix) and it has not been modified at the rear. All panels, welds, seams etc are original. Since the factory were building RWA shells in June 1971, it seems quite possible that one of them escaped with Sprite... MORE
Please Help, Firstly where can I buy the brackets for the lamps to be mounted on? I imagine that they connect to the bumper brackets? MGOC say they don't do them. Secondly are WIPAC lamps ok, or are there others I should consider. Finally, what is the best way to wire them up? A separate circuit and switch.... or into the main lamp system? I do not want to put a badge bar on the car, as MGOC suggested.... Cheers Max Mk3 Sprite Mk4 Midget "MG_Max" 25953... MORE
