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Regarding the handling issue: While it seems logical that the increase ride height hindered the handling of the car, the heavy rubber bumpers certainly affect the handing as well. It's simple physics. To change the direction of the car you must alter its momentum. Momentum being the product of velocity and mass. Hence it will require more effort to get a heavier car to start into a turn. Of course, its more complex when you consider the center of gravity, roll, weight distribution etc. But the bottom line is that it should easier to get a lighter car to... MORE
Ah, Chris...Merry Christmas to you and your's, sir. My car is still "out there" (albeit under it's cover today) for limited winter use on those dry, sunny days when temps. moderate a bit from time to time. But man, just PULEESE get me through to March 1st and the beginning of hopefully warmer weather...please, God...please! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27867... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
the access is a better if you do the inner bits first, but remember to keep trying the new outer panels in place as you fit each bit to make sure it'll all look ok in the end. Regarding fitting 1275 springs, are you taking the rubber bumpers off? (ideal time to do it, if you are doing bodywork in the rear light area anyway) If so, bear in mind the spring mountings were altered slightly for RB cars so just changing the springs will not lower the car all the way to the 1275's ride height. If you... MORE
David Jacobs wrote ........if a valve seat does come loose, I would have thought it won't actually drop onto the piston, since the valve head should always be bigger; having said that, if it holds the valve open, it can still cause interference problems. Very true, but I've also heard that if the press fit tolerance isn't correct , the valve seat insert can crack and break in half, not likely ,but a possibility that can easily be detected visually. More likely though is the long bolt in short hole theory. Alan "alan.east-jones" 27752... MORE
Paul, So you are the one that installed the flywheel and the clutch? Did you use the correct bolts? The use of the improper bolts on the flywheel could cause your problem. If they stick out the rear of the crankshaft they could foul up on the backng plate or possibly on the three bolts that hold on the rear main cap oil slinger. Also by using to long of bolt through your pressure plate into (through) the flywheel the same thing could occur. I'm not sure but I think it could hit the oil pump cover. Sure hope... MORE
Hi Alan- That's what has me really confused. I am NOT sure it is stopping mechanically. Years ago I had a problem like this with one of my race motors, and it was found to be a ring of rust. This time, since I could not detect any "mechanical" stop and the valve train looked fine, I had my boys push a little harder, several times. They ended up skidding the car about a foot. It ain't budging. Got any suggestion as to how I can free up the initial tick-over? One other note. I carefully marked the crankshaft... MORE
Sooo it could be that one of the hardened valve seats has come adrift thus locking things up. Take the rocker cover off and try again but watch the movement of the valves, then I tink my previous email will still apply ref. pulling the head. Sorry Alan "apjones72mg" 27714... MORE
Paul, I have been reading this thread with interest. A lot of interesting ideas. Let me think a moment and apply my simple Polish logic. Before you go into motor....... you have marked crank pulley and it always stops in the same place. If you back it up, it stops a few degrees from the same place always? right? Then take it until it stops and check into plug holes and find if any pistons are at or very near TDC. If they are, there could be something in the cylinder that is hitting the piston. If non of... MORE
I can't imagine anyone competent doing it incorrectly but I would suggest that you take off the front timing cover and make sure that the valves are correctly timed. It sounds very much like the pistons are striking something solid (a valve?) If you carry on rotating the engine given valve mistiming, it can be a bit expensive bending the valves etc. Aside from the con-rod being in the wrong way around, (although I think that the symptoms would be different for that - the interference would be much sooner during the revolution) there is not much else that... MORE
After all this time do you think something has fallen in there? A 1/4" nut or valve cotter would do the trick. Also possibly you have a sticking or bent valve that is hitting the top of a piston. Take the valve cover off and see if the valves and rockers look allright. Look in the spark plug holes. I can have a head off alot faster than a pan and then you could tell if the engine turns over. Happy trails...Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 27701... MORE
Thanks Alan And thank you Robert B. Houston and Rex Urban for your replies. I will admit. My knowledge of 60s British cars is somewhat limited. I mainly mess with 80s-90s RWD Imports like the MR2, Supra, 240SX, 300ZX, etc.. I dont know why I didnt see that the Silver Sprite was a Frogeye being that the rear end is the only part I like on the Frogeye. I think I need glasses. Anyway... Is it that hard to take the rear panels of a Frogeye and install them on a Spridget? Is it a mater of traditionally replacing... MORE
Robert As David pointed out, Heritage Shells are treated differently. I think they treat them as a 'repair panel' rather than 'another car', because they have never been registered as a 'car', and as you're transferring more than 70% of the donor car into the Heritage Shell, it still takes on the registration of the donor car. There are guidelines on what constitutes that 70% and I think it includes engine, gearbox, diff etc. amukdigiphoto@... 27648... MORE
Chris You're not coming anywhere near my freshly painted panels with 400 grit wet and dry, get yourself some 1000 grit wet and dry and you're in business girl! *wink* Nigel amukdigiphoto@... 27598... MORE
One for Capn Bob Passengers on a small commuter plane are waiting for the flight to leave. They're getting a little impatient, but the airport staff assures them that the pilots will be there soon, and the flight can take off. The entrance opens, and two men dressed in Pilots' uniforms walk up the aisle. Both are wearing dark glasses, one is using a guide dog, and the other is tapping his way up the aisle with a cane. Nervous laughter spreads through the cabin but the men enter the cockpit, the door closes, and the engines start up.... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
Hi all- Well, I'm now running the main harness. REALLY need help with layout. Car is 1973 US model. I have good diagram. What is need to see is how the factory physically laid out the harness in the engine compartment. Wish I would have taken pictures...... Anyway, any ya'll that have pictures that would help, I would be forever in your debt. Thanks. Paul "dfwip" 27512... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Chris That 'vision in green' looks far too nice for you, I thought you were looking for one that needed a little work? ;) Seriously though it looks good, nice straight body, nice bright shiny paintwork, sills painted the correct colour black this time, wire wheels look in good condition, useful extras - boot rack and roll over bar and most importantly it looks like it been cared for and looked after. I'd question the total mileage of 14,000 miles, or is that the mileage on the new unleaded reconditioned engine? The seller is also throwing in a new... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Chris I do understand. It's just that I'm trying to get you to avoid the pitfall I fell into! I wa =3D=0D s much the same as you, did lots of research, got itchy feet, looked at loads of cars, =3D=0D finally fell in love with one, nice colour, wire wheels, looked pretty good, had, h =3D=0D ad lots of work done to it by the previous owners (mechanical) took the plunge =3D=0D and bought it. It wasn't till later when I started looking deeper into the bodywork that I =3D=0D realised that whilst it wasnt a 'rust bucket'... MORE
Robert, I am far from an expert on MG Midget handling having about 1200 miles of wheel time to date. Some of that time the car didn't run too well. That said, I love the way the car handles. In my opinion it is somewhat firmer and "blockier" if that makes sense. The car always jerked around beartifully; lefts, rights long curves etc. It feels more solid somehow with the new underpinnings. I believe someone on the list in the past stated that tossablitiy of the car declines with a wheel/tire combo that is too large. If memory serves,... MORE
-Hi david,yes it was the wires from the gearbox switch that l was checking on,will do that and run them under batt tray then to the loom ,many thanks to you all . regards wes - "wesley5060" 27322... MORE
I think Wes meant the wires from the reverse light *switch*, Mr Pedantic! They do come forwards out of the gearbox tunnel then into the main loom. David "David Jacobs" 27312... MORE
