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Can't stand the foggy film on the back side of the 72 gauge glass so it's about time to clean them. I do not look forward to removing them completely from the dash to do so. Hopefully I can loosen the mounting brackets enough to push them out far enough to twist off the chrome bezels and remove the glass for cleaning . . . anyone been able to do it this way? I have cleaned another car's gauges by removing them completely but that was a 62 MKI and there was more access space to remove the brackets... MORE
Bob, Thanks for the vinyl dye tips. One little disappointment I just discovered . . . I have a beautiful wire spoke steering wheel from my 69 MKIII parts car I had planed to use on this car . . . just discovered they increased the diameter of the steering wheel spindle end at some time after the MKIII :-( However, over all I am very pleased with things are going. Trust the weather is better down there than up here . . . too much rain, but the sun is coming out and we should have a few... MORE
Don, I love your project and I like the idea of saving all the bits for the future. On vinyl spray, I have used it for many years off and on. It works very well and lasts quite well also. If it starts to crack or wear thin, it is easy to spray a little touch up. My only advice is to clean off area to be sprayed really well. I used lacquer thinner as I recall, but put it on a rag first and then light wipe to cut any grease or oil film. The vinyl stuck very... MORE
Hi guys, Have a few photos to share of the bugeye bonnet on my 72rwa. It is a work in progress, primer gray to sections as I get an ideas of what the best look is. As you may see still have various holes to fill . . . And much smoothing to do on the bonnet. Also is a photo of the door modification where I removed the wind up windows (doors from 69 parts car) cut the inside door metal work and also used the panels out of my 69 parts car to trim it out giving... MORE
Lost my low & high beam headlights, except for quick high beam flasher which I have to maually pull back on and manually hold back to activate the high beams. 90 Dodge Dynasty, tried replacing steering column mounted multi-function dimmer switch(no luck but interestingly, the switch was a LUCAS<PRINCE OF DARKNESS SWITCH! headlight in/out switch but it was replaced about 5-6 yrs ago. Also I might take it by Circut City where about 7 yrs ago they customized the wiring so that whenever the ignition was turned off, the lights would automatically go off even if they were left... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
When I did my car I cleaned back to bare metal and welded the necessary areas in turn. I primed each area as I completed it to keep rust from forming, particularly within the seams. I also used that weldable zinc primer on all lap welded seams. As the whole process was done over an extended period it ended up as a real patchwork of primers, applied at different times, under different conditions (temperature / humidity) and I wasn't very confident of how good the adhesion of the primer was as a basis for finish coats. I then grit... MORE
Hi Everyone I am trying to identify some type of top/cover assembly that a friend has inherited. Possibly someone in the UK can help. A description: It is a vinyl peice aprox. 3'x4' with reinforcment rods under a headliner material attached. It comes with chromed finishing parts for all sides. It also has a piece of curved tinted plexiglass with mounting pins on each end for the front/rear 3' section. Sort of looks like a large sunvisor. The vinyl is flat, no sides or back window section. The Only clue I have is it is made by Slide Away... MORE
Ed No I wasn't referring to the rear wing seams. The spridget shell is constructed from many parts and assemblies, many of which have been spot welded together - anywhere you look on the car you will see overlapped steel joints where one 'assembly' has been spot welded to another. It's these 'overlapped' joints where one piece of steel overlaps another piece of steel and has been spot welded that I'm referring to. Because the spot welds are done at intervals down the steel panel, this doesn't form a 'continuous weld' and leaves areas that water can get into... MORE
Hi all,l want to fit a pair of speakers in my sprite 67,was going to fit them under the seats but am now thinking of putting them in pods on the rear heel board behind the seats,yes l no they was never made like that but this is a restored car with engine mods etc and is going to be used and not for showing,what do you think please. regards wes "wesley5060" 28818... MORE
Duncan How did it go with sandblasting the engine bay on your car? What media did you use? I am getting ready to undertake the same job. I was also going to use the blaster on the outside of the panels, doors, wings, etc but I was thinking of using plastic beads for that. Have/can you use them in the pressureized sand blaster? Any info is welcome Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 28817... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Nigel, Excellent Expert Explanation The "guide coat" thing I think about like this... The surface to be sprayed should be flat, concave, or convex, but should not have dimples, hollows or high spots. Spraying a very thin dusting coat of a contrasting colour at first just changes the colour of the panel, but as you then flatten off with paper around a flat block it has the effect of removing the guide colour from all the peaks and high spots. The valleys and low spots remain untouched by the flat block show they show up with the contrasting colour.... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Yep, Nigel, I do know what the axle weight is like, and it is certainly less without the springs attached, and easier to handle. Since it is removed from the springs by simply undoing 4 U-bolts it really is easier to remove seperately from the springs. I have done the job both ways, more than once and always without help. Far and away the most important aspect is that the shell is properly supported in either case. I think we all at least agree on that point! Guy "Guy Weller" 28754... MORE
Guy I don't know you know, that axles pretty heavy for one person to handle on their own, specially as its an awkward SOB to get to. You're also assuming that those nuts and bolts will come off nice and easy - never the case! If I had, had the space id have rolled the whole assembly out as one unit, and dismantled it off the car - much easier. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28750... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
My God, how old is the U-2? It does not seem practical to keep something that old in the air. I can't remember the year but it is so long ago that I can hardly remember good old Frances Gary Powers. Seriously, to keep it up and safe, do they have to completely re build them, like replace all wiring, rivets, panels, new Heritage shell, etc? Are they still building them new? Bob in San Diego "60 is not old.........if you are a tree!" "Robert D. Gardner" 28661... MORE
I seem to remember a question being posted about marking the holes to be drilled for the 'MIDGET' letters on sills. this is how I did it. Found a firnd with Midget with the badges fitted. Take badges off sill. Take a sheel of cartrige paper and tape it flush to the botom flange of the sill Fold paper round sill to cover the holes for the badges Push badges back on pearcing through the paper. Meauer the distance front the front fach of teh sill to the paper. Take off car now move it to the new sill,... MORE
Hi Trevor- Yes, alignment tool was used. Have played A LOT with bleeding, including pressure bleeding. Absolutely no air. Pushrod moves almost one-half inch. I'm told this is all it should move. I've owned four of these cars. I can tell you for sure something is wrong. While I am sure some driving will help, I fear the tranny will be junk inside of a week. Doing some reading and had a thought. Early slave cylinders were 7/8 bore. Late slave was one inch. What if I switch to an early slave? Will it not give me greater pushrod... MORE
the covers. Needless to say, the Commander did not think it was too funny! We still had the best seats in the house for that show. about 30 yards off the runway. A bunch of crew chiefs, lawn chairs, and a cooler of beer! I believe that was the show for the unveiling of the "Euro-Fighter". All it too for me and a friend to be the lowest ranking Military at that show was a carton of American cigarettes. That was cool. Matt "matthew pfeil" 28629... MORE
the 1" slave, (with the 3/4" master it makes for a easy clutch), and I do have the Datsun slave cylinder with the L hydrolic line direction, but I think it is 7/8". I am going to a heavy duty oil/hydrolic line supplier in Portland tomorrow to try to get a "Street 90" for my 1" slave cylinder. If they can't do one in a short enough L, is there a Datsun or ??? that is short enough? What do the racers with a 5 speed (the 5 speed switches sides of the transmission of the slave cylinder) and... MORE
I forgot to add, if you're not too bothered about originality, you can get ones that use an electric temperature sensor; these are more convenient if you need to remove the gauge from the dash, or the sender from the head or radiator. The original ones are usually ok if left in place - I only had to change mine because I needed to get the dashboard out, and the sensor bulb wouldn't unscrew from the head. Regards David "David Jacobs" 28589... MORE
