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Jim... most people convert their points ign. system to electronic Crane, PerTronix (Lucas/Aldon "Ignitor") to get away from the maintenance schedule which must be followed to retain the intial efficiency of the stock points system when new points are installed and concurrently, dwell and timing are accurately set. For as you know, as the points wear, dwell and timing change. Thus, every 3k miles or so, resetting these values is the only way to maintain original efficiency of the points type system. Simply converting to the foregoing electronic systems while maintaining the otherwise stock coil does away with the... MORE
I bought and fitted a pair of inertia reel seat belts sold by the MGOC that bolt to the wheel arch. They adjust in orientation so they are in the correct plane to work. No problems, snap tight every time. I now feel a lot safer driving the car, that wheel is pretty close. Terry "Terry Isherwood" 35595... MORE
They are only on cars originally fitted with inertia real seat belts. When I came to repairing the inner rear arches on mine I changed the mountings for of the inertia reel belts. as my car originally had static belts. Had I known what a pain they were going to be to find I would not have bothered, but its too late now. The bracket bolt onto the side of the inner wheel arch, then go to the top of the arch and have a bend so the top part lays flat on the top of the arch, and... MORE
Has any one got the brakets for the inertia reel seatbelts, even better the seat belts themselves. I bought a new set for my car, but they are an adjustable type. The instructons for them tell you to bolt them directly to he side of the wheel arch, and they just look wrong to me, would be better on the proper bracket that goes up and over the inner arch should anyone have a pair flaoting about!. Stewart "zaphod19692000" 35575... MORE
Okay All you racers, First Happy New Year, Second, I am starting to mock up the interior in my spridget, and I an finding a problem. I am just about to bend some brackets for the new seats I chose (Corbeau New Clubmans)when I noticed that the steering is just too much in the way. I was planning on going to a much smaller wheel (maybe 12.5") but I do not hink that will help. How do you track guys have your gars set up? Do most of you just go with a simple race steering column with no... MORE
Ian, (AKA Mandy!) If you have looked at my photos you will see that the rear wheel arches were in a pretty poor state. They had been repaired with Polyfilla and newspaper! I cut out old rusted metal one section at a time, and replaced with steel panels that I cut, bent shaped and welded into position piece by piece. This included most of the inner wheel arch, the heel board, cills, spring mounts, floors etc. Most of these panels I fabricated as I was on a "we tight" strategy. I did buy a repair panel for the lower... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! Special Order, some place like Coker Tire. Check the classic tire dealers a t swap meets 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? eBay!! I found a 67 tonneau and a white top for our 68 on eBay. 3)... MORE
Thanks Brad I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33550... MORE
Thanks Paul. I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33549... MORE
Hi Lee, Tappet covers are located on the side of the block, underneath the manifolds. Single bolt holds them in place. Tappets can be removed without removing the cam on 948 anfd 1098 engines. The 1275 has no tappet covers, so the cam must be pulled first. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33530... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
Thanks for all the comments. Everyone was pretty musch right - it's the oil filter sensor wire and dash warning light. We had replaced thar damend old oil filter housing with a new spin-on and lost the reference. No sooner had I posted this message and ran back to the garage, my Dad figured it out. I'll be asking you guys soon for ideas on transporting the ol' A-H from El Paso to Dallas TX. We're just staring tomake plans, and so far folks like Uhaul haven't been very helpful (the A-H is too narrow for their auto transport).... MORE
OK, Doug... You indeed have the higher compression 8.9-1 motor. Thought so. And you've done a bit of good work on it already, obviously. Here again, assuming the motor has done 77k "untouched" up to this point in time, then yes....personally I would pull the pan and REPLACE all the bearings (and oil pump) as part of preventive ("downline") maintenance as seeing as the motor is already out of the car. I mean, what better opportunity? :) Your assessment of the oil pump location, etc. is correct, Doug. Easy job at this point and sure, I'd renew the front... MORE
G'day Vince Were does this yellow/brown wire start and finish. That would help determine what it is for. But I think Chris might be correct - it's the oil filter warning light. Inside the oil filter housing is a spring-loaded ball bearing. When the filter gets blocked (cos you haven't changed it for 17 years) the pressure causes the ball bearing to move against the spring thus opening a by-pass passage for the oil. On the outside of the filter housing is a spade terminal. Power runs from the ignition circuit, through the light bulb behind the red light... MORE
Vince, I have the ring-bound British Leyland shop manual 10th ed. from 1970. It covers the Sprites Mk 2 - 4 and Midgets Mk 1 - 3. There are 8 different wiring diagrams covering the various U.S. and Brit versions over the years. On the two diagrams that most likely were for your car, I didn't see any YN anywhere - or on any of the others either, in case somehow you've got a newer wiring harness. FWIW, which ain't much, but thought I'd let you know at least. Hamondale "hamondale" 33482... MORE
Folks, my Dad and I are trying to trace a lone yellow/brown(YN)wire. It's remained disconnected during the restore and has not affected any other electrical system (positive ground)or function. To be clear, this is not the brown/yellow (NY) wire to the alternator. We can't seem to find reference to the YN wire in the shop manual and have no reason to believe this is nothing but stock. Does anyone know where this goes? Also, we're trying to figure out the large, red-jeweled light (which is not the ignition light on the tach) located square in the upper middle of... MORE
David, You wrote that the switch itself, the plastic switch, is leaking. Hate to tell you, but it should not have any brake fluid getting to it and it is not designed to hold brake fluid. Those seals should prevent fluid from getting to the switch. If the switch is leaking, the seals aren't working. Get the right parts, for safety's sake. It's ONLY brakes. Peter C. "Peter C." 33471... MORE
"signal indicators.....LOUD audio reminder"?? What we really have here, is a "situational awareness" problem!! :):) Including this in your "cockpit scan" as you drive about the premisi is just part of normal piloting, Chris. It's like checking oil pressure, coolant temperature, rpm, "groundspeed", etc. from time to time, as you drive along. It's "multi-tasking" so to speak, though your attention is primarily directed toward what's happeing outside the window around you. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33466... MORE
G'day all Hopefully the last couple of questions before we dicide on which 5-speed kit to use. Whilst it seems everyone says "no modifications to the car are necessary", the Morriservice instructions state: "Underneath the heater box is a beam that needs to be altered some. Typically it needs to be moved up and back about 3/4 inch. Pounding it up and back with a hammer is the usual way." Well, if you ever tried to undo that damage, you would think that it was a modification. I questioned Paul A on this, and he replied: "This mod under... MORE
For all you furiners (not Texicans), this should make you wish you were here.... A TEXAS BLESSING Bless this house, oh Lord, we cry. Please keep it cool in mid-July. Bless the walls where termites dine, while ants and roaches march in time. Bless our yard where spiders pass fire ant castles in the grass. Bless the garage, a home to please carpenter beetles, ticks and fleas. Bless the love bugs, two by two, the gnats and mosquitoes that feed on you. Millions of creatures that fly or crawl, in Texas, Lord, you've put them all!! But this is... MORE
Chris... There ARE disadvantages to "in trunk" mounting, no doubt about it. In both my past and current positions I have been trained to think worst case scenarios first and foremost. And I would not personally install a pump on the "inside" myself, for in event of accident, I personally would rather have it ALL "outside" the car, whether I had a "g" cutoff switch intalled or not. However....under normal circumstances, we are not talking the pressures of fuel injection. Leakage of any sort should be detected very quickly considering only pressboard separates the trunk from the cockpit and... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
Do You need seat covers? Matt Pfeil "Matthew Pfeil" 33288... MORE
Some bits are interchangeable - tail lights are the same, mirrors are similar, but Midget ones need an extra angled plinth to sit at the correct angle due to the different curvature of the door panel compared to the 'B. Headlamp bezels again are slightly different, but you can generally make B ones fit. Without knowing the spec of your car (North American? UK?) I wouldn't like to comment on the air filter interchangeability. Wiper switch will probably be a two speed for the B and only a single speed for yours but again could be made to fit.... MORE
