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Jens No they're not 'original' but they look it - you can't tell the difference between steel and cupro/nickel, so unless you tell anyone...however, no problems spotting copper ones huh? At the end of the day you don't need to be a slave to originality unless you intend to compete in 'concours' events, which I don't. My adherence to 'originality' is for my own benefit, because I want to keep my car as 'original' as I can. That doesn't mean that because cupro/nickel alloy brake pipes wern't used at the factory they can't be used now. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30606... MORE
Jens Depends on how much vibration the pipe is subjected to, it can go brittle and break if it's been allowed to vibrate - make sure its firmly clamped down. Cupro/nickel alloy is the best stuff to use - doesn't go brittle and doesn't rust - but is expensive! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30597... MORE
Chris Thank's for your input. Yes, I can imagine 1/4" steel pipe is a pain to bend, the 3/16" cupro/nickel was bad enough! I trace the route of the pipe with some string, including all the bends and then add about 6 inches, and cut that length, I still usually have to trim that back to fit, so no problems on lengths. Thanks for the tip on the autojumbles, but its not really an option - I simply don't have the time to trawl around atuojumbles right now - I just want to get on and get the car... MORE
I have just bought a ready made up 1/4" copper pipe that i will fit very soon. I have heard that they might split with age but what sort of age are we talking about here, i have seen copper pipes used elsewere that have lasted for donkers years with no problem. Jens Age hardening/work hardening, will then split. R "jens maudal" 30578... MORE
So Chris, are you saying when troubleshooting a problem such as this never assume just because it is new it is ok? I am more likely to look at something I have not explored yet (i.e float bowl sediment) and if still unresolved will go back and recheck previous work and parts. But your point is well taken. I did not think the fuel pump or filter as likely since I could drive on flat and slight grades, and normal acceleration with no issues. but will leave no stone unturned. I am also not familar with the su carbs,... MORE
I've also recently had no end of problems with new electrical items failing after only about a weeks service, coils, plug leads, dizzy caps, rotor arms condensors etc across a whole range of classic cars Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the... MORE
David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the float bowls for sediment sounds like a great place to look. I will post the final solution when it is resolved. Thanks for the advice. Mark "MARK" 30579... MORE
gave it new plugs wires, cap & rotor, new fuel pump about six months ago and fuel filter one month ago. Guess there is a lot of areas to rule in & out. Thanks for the input. Sunday was a nice day, with the top down we enjoyed driving around the lake, only bummer to the day was going up the one grade. later, Mark "MARK" 30577... MORE
Hi guys I'm at the stage now where I'm about to fit the fuel line to the Midget. The brake lines have been done in 3/16" cupro/nickel alloy and I was going to do the fuel line in this as well, but having just seen the price of a 25' roll of 1/4" cupro/nickel pipe =A333 ($60) of which I'll probably only use about 6 or 7 feet of seems a bit excessive! Specially when 25' roll of 1/4" steel pipe is only =A310 ($18). Any thoughts? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30569... MORE
Mark... Running rough can mean anything, so not really enough to go on. Usually an engine which runs "rough" under load is either overadvanced in terms of ignition or suffering from an ignition system which requires attention in that the spark is breaking down under load. This could be a bad coil, wires, cap or any other individual component not quite up to snuff. It could also be a combination of worn items, as well. Lastly, there is the fuel supply. Float levels set too low, inadequate pressure (old or bad pump) or inadequate supply (clogged filter, line or... MORE
That even beats out the guy who is selling four 50 cent brass plumbing plugs from your local hardware store to cap off the smog air injection holes. The last set went for over $32.00. Don 73 Midget . . . may or may not be British. "Don May" 30517... MORE
Jim... There is a reason for the "outside air" duct to the heater. But a thin nylon "sock" placed over either end of the duct tube should do the trick. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30458... MORE
PLEASE stop perpetuating this crap! Most of us want to read Spridget stuff, not chat-room one-liners that can only be of interest to 2 or 3 at most. Or at the very least, have the courtesy to include "Non-LBC" or such in the subject line - then my automatic bollocks filter can delete it. Thank You. Steve Clark Southampton, UK 1971 GAN5 "Steve and Sue Clark" 30443... MORE
G'day Jim Thanks for the update. Now it becomes clear to me. It must be the fact that we are Down Under and you are Up Over. You ask the purpose of the elephant's trunk. Well of course, it's to breath, or inhale. Well just under the rear end of the Sprite or Midget, (call it trunk or boot as you will) we have a pipe, a round hole anywhere between 1.25" and 2.5". Down Under, it is to breath out of. Clearly, Up Over it is to breath in through - hence the reference "trunk" - to breath... MORE
Message: 4 Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:19:41 EST From: DLancer7676@... wrote.....that Auto Zone is now carrying brake lines with the proper flares and the fittings for British cars. When I was an apprentice at the Lockheed Brake Co in the 70's. we each had to make a brake pipe flaring tool as part of our machining tests. Not that difficult but getting the angles and radius correct on the tip was the diff icult part. Years later I resurrected the drawings (originally 1950ish )and had a full set made for the R&D department where I was working at... MORE
TJ, On your soft pedel problem, I don't think it is the MC. Try bleeding the brakes one or two times, remember to start at the farthest wheel from th MC and work closer. A soft pedel that will pump up hard usually is air in the lines. Where the air came from is a nother story. If it fixes the problem and is ok for a while, then returnes, you must find the leak, perhaps in the stop light switch (as you noted). Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 30220... MORE
G'day TJ Remove the float bowl lids and, with a compressed air gun, blow the sludge out of the sump at the bottom of the bowls. Remove the carby dashpost and blow air into the bottom of the float bowl to ensure the fuel supply jet to the carby is clear. We had a car in the shop recently with a similar problem - idled fine but wouldn't go up a hill. Plenty of fuel in the float bowl, but the fuel supply jet was 90% blocked and nothing was getting to the carby. And if the car has... MORE
TJ They're K&N and make one for the Sprite too. They also do them in individual chrome pancake filters too. Moss do them, or you could try ebay. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30169... MORE
Cap'n Bob- What leads me to believe I have an issue as to fuel flow is that my car is acting very simmilar to the motorcycles I race when I have had fuel flow issues (pinched fuel line, clogged filter, even started a race once time with the fuel petcock 1/2 way on). It's like it runs peachy in lower RPM's and if I gas it, it runs fine in the upper range too, for about 5-10 seconds, until the float bowls are depleated. At this point, it runs like crap even at low RPM's until float bowls fill... MORE
Jon is going to check current prices but he ships to Japan via Los Angeles and it is about $150.00 to Los Angeles. Expect it would be about the same to the bay area, perhaps less if the trucking firm he uses has a drop off terminal here and it is picked up at their terminus. Seeing that Oakland is just next door and a major port most likely one there. Don "Don May" 30155... MORE
I have 2 main mechanical issues I will need to fix before doing any real driving. (I have many other non-mechanical issues, some even just mental). 1. Brake pedal needs "pumped" to build up pressure. Once I pump it a few times I can hold it down and it stays firmly (doesn't go all the way to the floor no matter how hard I push). Before I pump it, it goes all the way to the floor. When I let off the brakes, and drive for a bit, I need to go through the whole process again. I don't... MORE
I have a 73, and a 74. They had only sat for about a year each, however I did have a 62 that the previous owner had run since 1987 and then only for a couple of months, almost 22 years total except for that short period . . . There are things you can count on fixing and replacing when they sit that long . On the 73 I disconnected the fuel line from the float bowls, stuck it in a jar and turned on the key to activate the fuel pump to see how the fuel was... MORE
An added thought. When using compressed air through the fuel lines also be sure and not blow it back into the carburetor bowls. What year is it and if it was stored before you bought it how long was it sitting not running? Don "Don May" 30138... MORE
I'm standing over my coffee pot staring, as if that will speed it up, real men do that. On top the pot is a knob and two symbols, a dark cup and an white cup. The function I had read is to adjust for weaker or stronger coffee. Turn the knob indicator to the dark cup and all the hot water flows onto the coffee grounds, turn it to the white cup and part of the water is diverted to the edge of the plastic filter holder where a special conduit channels it past the coffee grounds and directly... MORE
Trevor I may do that for mine. I have a stack of pics to sort through of the resoration process, some I've =3D=0D not even looked at. I'm in two minds whether to do my own site (I have some webspace with my ISP) or put it all on somewhere like britcars.org. Thanks for the tip. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 29893... MORE
