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I know how that feels, Nigel. When I started working on my Sprite last year the tires were flat and had glued themselves to the floor. It had been stored against the wall for 15 years. I had to use a long pole to pry/slide it away from the wall far enough to get an air hose to one of the tires so it would sort of roll. Now I have wheel dollies under all four wheels and it is easy to even move it sideways. It was a great feeling to move it out into natural light after... MORE
Alan... Which came first? The chicken or the egg? :):) Oil is basic power for production...of nearly anything and everything. There are other factors of course like normal inflation, with or without the cost of basic power tripling over a short period. Oil was US$ 9.00 bbl. back in the early 60's, if that. Airline kerosene was US 15 cents a US gallon under fleet purchase, if that, back then. As a kid, leaded high test ran about 40 cents a gallon or so. The foregoing notwithstanding, the modern cars of today are far safer/better machines for sure. Part... MORE
" then had to sell the last few to British airways for 1 and Air France for 1 frank each, " All of the Concords (original Brit spelling , before the French hi-jacked it) were sold extremely cheaply toAir France or BOAC . Don't forget that both these companies were government run at the time so the loss or gain made by either the builders or the operators was still funded by the tax payer. It depended on the lucrative Paris / Heathrow to New York run to make money though (that's what it was designed for) And that... MORE
We, the British tax payers, subsidised this to the tune of many hundreds of millions of pounds and then had to sell the last few to British airways for 1 and Air France for 1 frank each, I think we could have got more on ebay! Wonderful technical achievement, massive economic disaster, all so a few rich kids could cross the Atlantic quicker than us poor people in economy class in 747s Terry "terry.isherwood" 26971... MORE
"To say nothing of the tune-up costs" Yes, really! I think they hold 13 quarts of oil and have two oil filters as well. Not inexpensive to keep up, for sure. While we have you here, what sort of clutch/slave cylinder set-up are you using for the 5 speed conversion, Mr. A? I thought you used spridget parts but everybody tells me that in these respects, you're a Datsun kinda guy! Inquiring minds......:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26976... MORE
Hi Colin Thanks for the heads up on the prop plating. Regarding brake pipes, my suggestion was to use Kunifer - a cupro-nickel alloy, which has the advantages of copper with non of the disadvantages and doesn't rust like steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26940... MORE
have you tried the trick of using a bolt screwed into the hydraulic pipe connection hole, with suitable washers/large diameter nut to press the circlip into place? "David Jacobs" 26915... MORE
Steve I have to partly agree with Ed here (Arghh). Whilst I'm not familiar with POR, I've been lead to beleive that its almost identical to what we have over here called 'Hammerite'. I've not had great experiences with Hammerite, but that may well be because I've thinned and sprayed with it, rather than brush painting it on. What I've found is a) it takes ages to dry. It goes touch dry fairly quickly, but doesnt fully dry for ages. I've painted components with it, let them air dry for a couple of days, stacked them in a box,... MORE
Gingerino... Considering the clutch problem is intermittent along with the fact you found (really) low fluid level in the master cylinder after the hard braking incident, I would suspect air has gotten into the line, rather than any mechanical problem. Bleeding the system (well) will tell the tale. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26831... MORE
Air in the lines seems to be the concensus. Is this a do it yourself thing with minimal tools? "Virginia" 26827... MORE
From: Virginia [mailto: vleonard@... ] Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 8:20 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Gosh Dangit..was:Re: oil preference Air in the lines seems to be the concensus. Is this a do it yourself thing with minimal tools? "Duncan Sinclair" 26828... MORE
Thanks Nigel, Yes, sentimentality does enter into it. My father gave me this Sprite as a high school graduation present some 23 years ago. He actually gave it to me in pieces, and we rebuilt it together, which brought us closer, considering I was living with my mother after their divorce. So it's not just a car, it's a family heirloom! In the last three years I have installed performance suspension front and rear, uprated brakes, Weber, and LCB exhaust header. Now the drivetrain is out to rebuild the engine and install the Datsun 5- speed. Looking more closely... MORE
Brad, yer an idiot!!! I GAVE her EXACTLY what Ginny needs!!!! And Bree!! I gave a Brand Name!!! Cannot MISS!! Ask ANY woman if she recognixes the following: Cartier Wal-Mart Tiffaney American Express United Air Lin (oops, sorry - American Air Lines) Mercedes Master Card J.C.Penny Rolls-Royce (outside chance of Bentley) Visa Sax Fifth Avenue That enough?? Answer: DAMNED RIGHT!!!! If you even THINK a "label" is read at any of the above; you have gone COMPLETELY 'round da bend!!! KISS !! Ed "justbrits" 26782... MORE
Normal equals quite loud under load. I always used to put a second small silencer in the pipe and found that I prefered the slightly more muted sound. It still has that potential for a nice purposeful growl, indicating a healthy potential output! R "Roger Stinson" 26711... MORE
I wrote the following post thinking about rostyles, but after I looked at the original post I realized you are asking about early steel wheels. Oh well, some of it is still pertinent, so here it is: I've had success using a combination of chemical stripper and sand blasting. I've used the enviro-friendly stripper (letting it sit for three hours) then I hosed off the residue and the remaining paint blasted off quickly at fairly low pressure. I agree that removing the tire it the smart thing to do. Then self etching primer, then a light coat of medium... MORE
They are so cheap and last so long (I've done about 150k miles in my Sprite and replaced four I think, two of those recently) that it's really not worth getting excited about. BMW owners spend more on one pollen filter than you will on track rod ends if you keep the car for ever "Jeremy Cogman" 26634... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Nigel, When being brutal with the steering rods / arms make sure you don't bend th em. Another effective way of making the track rod end flats useful is to grind the flats parallel and obviously closer together to be a good fit in a good open ended spanner. You should be changing them as a matter of course any way at only =A36:50 or each, so don't be afraid of damaging the TR ends per se. Alan Aside Track rod ends and steering arms (Thomson steering joints - trade name), Mo re items made on the Leamington site... MORE
There's a little flat on the rod you can put a wrench on. It probably won't work. Use a pipe wrench on the tie rod end. Maybe you'll have to replace the tie rod end, maybe not. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26586... MORE
Thanks The clips I have look about the right shape but are just not tall enought to hold the strip, they just fall out of the slot. BTW I got the midget MOT'd with nothing more than 4 new tyres, the old ones were not worn out the wall were covered in cracks simply caused by age. I think the oxygen in the air attacks the rubber. Normally you wear out the tyre long before this happens. Terry "terry.isherwood" 26557... MORE
HI ONE FRONT SHOCK I REMOVED FROM MY CAR FELT DEAD BUT I HELD IT VERTICALY IN THE VICE AND WORKED IT BACK AND FORWARD THE AIR BUBLED OUT AND IT FEELS FINE. IT APEARES THAT THEY DON'T "SELF BLEED" WHEN FITED BUT NEED TO BE WORKED IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION TO DRIVE THE AIR OUT BEFORE FITING. PREHAPS TRY THIS ON THE DUFF ONE AND IT MAY BE OK GOOD LUCK ROB "denniseagle2002" 26556... MORE
I am at last a stage where I am trying to install parts on the car. When the old ones were removed, a mere 15 or so years ago, everything seemed so logical & it appeared that everything would just pop right back in place. Sound familiar? I kept all my old brake pipes etc. labelled everything & took lots of photos. However I didn't take enough. Is there anybody with a frogeye in the midlands who would let me photograph every inch of their car? It doesn't have to be perfect, mine won't be. My list of detailed... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
