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how about using one of the earlier hydraulic pressure operated switches? You'd possibly have to re-arrange the pipework to fit in the 4-way union that the switch mounts into. David "David Jacobs" 38030... MORE
Dear Listers, Based on traffic lately I don't know who's out there but here goes anyway: My brake light switch has passed on. Ordered a new one from Vicky B and have run into a problem. The manuals I have (Haynes and Official Shop) want one to unscrew the pedal box surround to get the clearance necessary to screw in the new switch without interference. Sounds OK but on inspection it appears my surround is welded down. Short of breaking the welds I don't see any way to screw in the new switch without hammerassing (sp?) it in and... MORE
A big-time lawyer from New York City went duck hunting in rural Texas. He shot and dropped a bird, but it fell into a farmer's field on the other side of a fence. As the lawyer was climbing over the fence, the very elderly farmer on whose property the duck had fallen drove up on his tractor and asked him what he was doing. The lawyer responded, "I shot a duck and it fell in this field, and now I'm going to retrieve it." The old farmer replied, "This is my property, and you are not coming over here."... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
Clean off all the corrosion with a scotch brite pad or stiff brush, wash with detergent,rinse, dip in a solution of 1 part in 10 household vinegar for 10-15 seconds, rinse, dry, and prime with any bare metal primer. The Krylon stuff from Wal-Mart is fine, then top coat with color. "joe blxfstz" 37863... MORE
Mostly restored, mint interior, low miles, Brooklands Green, new tires, brakes, SS braided brake lines, clean, 1500 engine, been de- smoggedm has Weber 2 bl. side draft(DCOE) headers, clean tight tranny, new top/boot cover, NO RUST, NEVER WRECKED, wood steering wheel & MG shift knob, Clairon AM-FM cassete deck, drives great. $3900. In Arizona U.S.A.see photos section hdsteveg@yahoo. "hdsteveg" 37585... MORE
Now cars with disc brakes on the front have a wheel cylinder with two pistons, affixed to the backing plate by means of a C-clip, and the hand brake lever is totally seperate and operates on the brake shoes not the wheel cylinder. Does this describe what you have? There are a number of manufacturers of these wheel cylinders - some use normal rubber cups, some use your Polo mint seal. There are even different versions of the Polo mint - same OD but different ID, depending on the whim of the manufacturer. The one thing they all have... MORE
Hi Phil,. The correct ones are readily available, just a tad spendy. The old ones are not usually worth rebuilding as you won't be doing anything to correct the rust and pits on the 2 steel pistons, and likely the pits in the aluminum are way deep. It also costs more to sleeve than to get new ones. Again, you'll do nothing about the 2 steel cyls when sleeved! Just buy new and get it done right. These wheel cyls are the same as on the Morris Minors. Later, Paul A Hi Phil, I believe rear cylinders were specified... MORE
Hi Phil, I believe rear cylinders were specified as 7/8" bore for all drum braked cars but went to 3/4" for cars originally fitted with discs. Are your 3/4" cylinders the later twin piston type? If they are, I think you want a GRK 2014 repair kit. If they're not, I'm stumped. David "David Jacobs" 37520... MORE
I have been watching this thread on brake lines and there appears to be some confusion. There are no braided brake lines. You can get braded brake hoses that go from the brake line to the calipers or wheel cylinders. These have to be flexible to allow them to bend with wheel travel. Brake lines go from the MC to the wheels area. They do not flex. If you are replacing brake lines, buy a complete set of copper/nickel alloy lines from Moss or the usual suppliers. They are the correct length with all fittings attached, bend easily to... MORE
My friend's 73 Midget was outfitted with stainless steel brake and clutch lines during his rebuild. (FInally nearing completion after 2 decades plus). Finally got the car on the ground again two weeks ago and were all hyped to see it move under it's own power for the first time in ages. NO GO. Stainless steel clutch line had a leak. I'm not nearly as sold on them as I was as this line was relatively new and completely unstressed. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37440... MORE
G'day guys For your bidding pleasure, tonight we have: 1) a boot (trunk?) badge for a Mk IV Sprite, very rare, same as the Bugeye bonnet badge but almost twice the size. Now I think of it, you guys with foreign or blown engines should but this on the bonnet (OK, hood) just to brag about the size! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=27376&item=4554652340&rd=1 2) a competition roll bar, looks very substantial if a little agricultural, and I'm not happy about the bends in the main legs, but still if it keeps the wife happy..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4554619598&category=34204 3) Bugeye Scalextric slot car - what more... MORE
The bleeder thingy should be either 7/16" or 3/8". An ordinary end wrench may work, but if they are stubborn, it will just round over the fittings and slip. Busted knuckles, much swearing, a trip to the store for new ones follow. Much better to have a couple special purpose wrenches which are made for use on tubing fittings. You'll need only a couple to do the whole job, so pick them up for a few dollars wherever you get the new brake lines. They'll save a lot of headaches. If you decide to replace all the lines, plan... MORE
Pay the extra $$$ and buy the stainless steel braided brake line set it's worth the extra money & they look great and fit like a glove, & you truely are'nt goint to replace them again ever. "hdsteveg" 37429... MORE
I would replace the whole lot, with no corrocding brake lines for what it costs, then never have to do the job again!. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37424... MORE
Yes, it's called a tubing or flare nut wrench. 6 point box type wrench with one side open so the other 5 sides fit the bleeder screws. Get them! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37431... MORE
The steel brake lines at Advance come in various straight lengths, so you'll want to buy the appropriate lengths and then bend them. They are easy to bend by hand. I don't know what sort of shape your present lines are in, but if they're not leaking or damaged, or aren't corroded, you may not want to replace them all. On the other hand, new ones are not very expensive, so it might be good insurance to do them all and eliminate any worry on that score. I believe Advance will also have new hoses, caliper kits, brake pads,... MORE
G'day Jeffrey, and thanks. Now we all know how to pronounce "blxfstz" - just like "Holmes". My first Bugeye was purchased for $500 in 1970 when I was 19 years of age and ian impecunious Uni student. The brakes failed on the way home and I had only one week to get the rust repaired so that I could renew the registration. But then I wanted a sports car, and this was the cheapest one on the market at the time. I would love to come visit, and might do so one day. I'll even try the Rolling Rock,... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
G'day guys Sprite and Midgets had 7" front drum brakes. But you knew that didn't you. Austin A40 ("A40 Farina" for us Down Under and in the UK) had 8" front drum brakes fitted to an identical stub axle. So yes, it's as complicated as undoing the 4 bolts that hold the brake backing plate to the stub axle, and swapping over the backing plates and everything attached to them. It's a common mod down here as our vintage racers must retain drum brakes - discs not allowed. Also good for the part-time Concourse entrant as few judges notice... MORE
Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
I use a 1/4" drive, (Breaker Bar), 6" extension, and a 7/16" "crowfoot" with tubing style "C" shape. It is cheap, and puts you above the master cylinder to loosen the fittings. Most places that handle sockets & ratchets should know about them and have them. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 37323... MORE
I have acquired a set of front cylinders, brake drums, shoes, and hub off an A40 Farina. I'm told these work well on the spridget as they give approx 50% more braking area. Apart from the A40 drums and shoes, what other A40 bits do I use eg wheel cylinder, hubs etc. Can anyone advise on any other reasonably priced front suspension mods? Thanks very much "bensengold48" 37299... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
in short, how is it fitted!. Mounting the oil cooler seems easy enough, fitting the sanwich plate seems relativly simple, but how are the hoses routed?, there does not seem to be any easy way to route them! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37257... MORE
