MAIN
Braking System
Previous Page | Next Page
When soldering new spade terminals and the like onto the end of old wires, the copper wire always seems to be black. I take this to be oxidisation and try to remove as much as possible before soldering. Using a resin cored solder the flux does not seem to clean the wire effect ively. crimping surely just traps the oxidisation between terminal and the copper, so not an effective joint. Scotchloks are not an option IMO. Any thoughts / recommendations? What is the cause of this blackening of th e wires? Is it due to a bad earth (ground)... MORE
when you turn on the ignition. tach, fuel pump, wipers, brake stop light, reversing lights, heater fan..... The fault must be on the "downstream" side of the fuse for it to blow, so it is likely to be one of those, or the wiring to them. Some of these are switchable: lights, wipers, fan etc so if they are switched off when the fuse blows then it may be one of the non- switched items although it could still be a damaged wire between fuse block and switch. Guy "Guy Weller" 28195... MORE
Mark - Oh, and one other thing - yeah, the fitting of the top end parts went fine. No problem with the part fitment. But you have to reroute your front brake lines on early model Spridgets (yours) to make room for them. Ever hand bend brake lines into complex 3D shapes? Buy several extras, and start with coat hanger wire to get the shape close. It's tons of fun. Sorry I forgot that one "small" detail. H "hamondale" 28146... MORE
A buddy of mine, living in Germany during March of 1963, got the following quote from the Austin Motor Car Co., Ltd., Motor Export Corporation, Ltd. of Piccadilly, London on a new AH3000... A-H 3000 Sports Conv. L865.00.00 (Mono or DuoTone) Prod. Line fitted extras: Heater 15.10.00 Overdrive 50.00.00 Wire Wheels 25.00.00 Adj. Steering Col. 2.00.00 Tonneau 10.00.00 Knockoffs (ea. wheel) 1.06.00 Servo Ass't. Brakes 10.00.00 *Steering Lock 4.10.00 *Wing Mirror 1.11.04 * = Compulsory in Germany A hardtop is not currently available thru the Personal Exports Divison Anyone care to do the exchange rate math at "yesterday's" prices,... MORE
Hi Bill, What sort of state/ age are the flexible rubber hoses? Perhaps they have swollen and collapsed internally. The pressure bleeder I use takes its air supply from an inflated tyre so operates at about 30psi. I guess you could increase pressure without any worries. Guy "Guy Weller" 28118... MORE
If the 1inch travel is the full distance that the pedal is able to move through, this would be a BAD thing, And either: the pedal is starting very close to the floor before the clutch begins to disengage, or the pedal starts high, but is prevented from full travel by the slave cylinder piston hitting the circlip or other faults with the linkage. Guy "Guy Weller" 28087... MORE
G'day Paul et al The travel at the slave cylinder end depends on: a.. the length of the clutch pedal from pivot point to the pedal pad (there are two lengths - bet you didn't know that) b.. the height of the pedal off the floor (which is adjustable on cars with dual clutch/brake master cylinders) c.. the amount of free play at the top of the pedal d.. the master cylinder bore size e.. the slave cylinder bore size f.. the amount of "lost movement" due to wear in bushes, clevis pins etc etc If you know answers... MORE
I guess I stepped in that one all right. Anyway, I'm measuring the travel at the pedal not the slave cylinder - so I guess I have to crawl under and check the circlip. Thanks for the help! Kevin "Kevin Odhner" 28065... MORE
Toy asks..."Have I gotten your's?" Oh, YEAH!! Many times over. OH!!!! Wait a minute....you mean the disc!?? Nope...will check the mail tomorrow and let you know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28068... MORE
G'day Kevin Aren't they rude, having a laugh at you like that!!!!!!!! I can understand it from Brad, but from Capt Bob, I am surprised! Shame on you Bob. Now to the topic. Kevin, are you measuring distance travelled at the pedal, or travel at the slave cylinder? If it's 1" at the slave cylinder end - then that's excessive. It's usually only about 1/2", so all is well. At the top end, the pedal should hit the floor - approx 4" away. 1" in and out (sorry, couldn't resist) is rediculous. But if your clutch pedal only travels... MORE
Good lord this is a cold natured 8itchy car until she gets warm. I was finally able to take her to the mechanic today for the cracked slave cylinder boot. It's 30 degrees in Memphis, TN which doesn't make me happy because she has no top on. I bundle up, go out and crank her up. I'm sure she was cussing me because every once in a while I could almost understand a few words coming out of the engine compartment and certainly a few from the exhaust. I forgive her considering how cold it is and that I'd... MORE
Subject: Re: Bugeye Group..... Re: The Originality Wars...another take A very interesting spin on the subject. It seems to put it more into perspective for me. I am not restoring a Bugatti here. And I have no interest in restoring a 1959 tract house (that sold for $15,000 new) back to its original condition with galvanized water pipes and a floor furnace. I like air conditioning, a modern kitchen, disk brakes, 5 speed, going faster etc. As well, I like the neighborhood, and the people who live around me, and the other people who drive LBC's and besides, they... MORE
Hi, Can anyone tell me what the normal range of movement is for the clutch pedal on a '65 Midget MKII, and how stiff it should be? My clutch seems to work just fine, but I am surprised how short the range of motion is, and how stiff it is - it feels like its only going in about an inch, if that. As I said the car works, but the difference between in and out is so small that I find myself pushing hard to be sure I've got it in far enough in. If the pedal had... MORE
Mr Zappa, You should have a Zenith cd150 carb installed on your car if it is stll as originally equipped. These carbs have been trouble since the day they were installed new and only get worse as time goes on. As for the fuel leak. Look real close at the rubber hose where it attatchs to the carb body. Small hairline cracks frequently are found causing fuel to weep. Have someone crank it over and you watch right here for where the leak appears. Another possibilty is the auto choke (if installed) can be a pain in the a$$.... MORE
Hi Robert. Actually, if you read my post you will see that we are in full agreement. We both state the source of the increased pressure as coming past the pistons, rather than the volume displaced by the pistons which is balanced out. And we both refer to the oil leak problem that ensues. Interesting stuff about filling a 2-stroke crankcase. This was effectively the best way of increasing the compression ratios on a 2 stroke. I never went as far as you with using bondo, but I do remember there were a number of firms selling crank-case fillers... MORE
Paul.... Assuming you are using the normal intake manifold mounted stock PCV valve, most likely the rubber diaphragm is "weak"....we all know what happens to rubber exposed to ozone (air) either sitting on a shelf in a parts wharehouse or mounted on an engine which has sat for a long period of time. The high idle along with intermitten excessive "smoking" is almost a dead giveaway. Check that hose between the flame arrester and the PCV valve as well. Rubber develops "hairline" cracks with age. Like most rubber, it lasts longer when used (not abused) while exposed to whatever... MORE
Thanks to all the "start-up" advice, the initial run-in went without a hitch. But a strange problem cropped up. Engine is a fresh high compression 1275 with PCV only. It would run very well for the first few minutes, and then start to belch smoke the likes of which few could imagine. It would do this for a couple minutes, then run normal again. Also, I could not get it to idle below 1200 rpm despite the fact that the carbs were fresh and were properly set up. With throttles CLOSED it still idled at about 1200. After doing... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
I see that when my Ebay 'spoof' mail arrived at midgetsprite , the actual E bay message complete with a link and asking for information was missing. Bu t you got the hidden message- strange. !!! I forwarded it to Spoof@ebay then received a VERY,VERY Extremely long stand ard reply. Despite the warnings contained in the Ebay email - all seems to be working OK. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Samuel, IMO the time to do your head is when it's wet and cold , can be done indoor s , try the using kitchen !!!!!!!. Then refit it before the sun comes out so you can be driving. I'm assuming you will be grinding in the valves , I didn't realise the old engines were fitted with valve stem seals, I thought that was a more modern innovation. (or are they fitted to 1500s - I only 'know' A series) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Samuel, The roads down South East are busy and full of morons. However up in Yorksh ire you will find there are lots of empty roads just great for spridget dri ving. Same for the rest of the country really , cities like Birmingham and Manchester and the immediate hinterland are busy , but that's the same in t he 'States. Same for our Motorways your Interstates / turnpikes. Except for the M25 around London you will easily keep up with the flow of traffic there , just don't forget to pay for your Pay and Display parking t... MORE
Hi Cap'n- IT STARTED!!!!!!!!! After ten long, grueling years (ok, I took A LOT of time off...) the motor fired this afternoon. A sweeter sound has not been heard.... You are right. This is a VERY fresh motor. What should I pay attention to with respect to "cam break-in"? Also, I got the clutch going. Most all parts are new or refreshed. Disengages the flywheel nicely. But the pedal effort is VERY light. Is this normal? Also, has anyone measured the "rod travel" one should get at the slave cylinder with a properly working clutch? I would be interested... MORE
yes, it's not too difficult a job; it's even possible to do the valve stem seals (is that what you mean?) with the head still on, though paradoxically it's probably trickier to do that way. There are no particular pitfalls I can think of, just make sure the engine's cold before you loosen anything, get a workshop manual for torqueing the nuts up in the right order, oh, and don't forget to refit the little bypass hose between the head and water pump *before* you screw the head down. Regards David "David Jacobs" 27776... MORE
Don- Your point is well taken. Just to eliminate the possibility, I will go ahead and get the clutch working. Everything is rebiult or new, with stainless sleeving. Just a matter of adding fluid and bleeding. I will do so. Starter is installed. If it is a problem, how could I get 345 degrees out of the crank? But you are correct. It is installed. Think it should go on the removal list? Thanks for your help. Paul "dfwip" 27723... MORE
