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Since you don't say anything about flex lines, I'm gonna say that the culprit, What you describe is usually caused by swelling flexible rubber hoses, It can prevent fluid return to the master cylinder. I thunk silicone fluid in old lines can exacerbat the problem too. It will also swell certain types of rubber, so it may be incompatible with your seals in the MC. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25056... MORE
So I am motoring down a nice quiet highway at 50MPH and come to a leisurely stop at a traffic light. 30 seconds go by, light turns green and I motor on up to 50 MPH again. AFter about a mile, I detect the distinct smell of burning brakes. Dang, I hope that's not me.... unfortunately it was. SO I pulled over to the side and came to a stop. The brake pedal was hard and would not depress very far. Furthermore, the brakes were not responding very well (nor grabbing). After stopping I noticed the stinky smoke coming... MORE
If you are certain you are getting enough travel out ot the slave cylinder to disengage your clutch, then the first thing that comes to mind is that your clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel. How long has it been since it was driven and working properly? Was the fluid loss the reason for the failure and was it from sitting to long? Three other posibilities: * First motion shaft is stuck in or has to much friction with the pilot bushing. * Clutch pressure plate spring/s have failed. * Throw out bearing has come off the fork.... MORE
I am having problems with clutch not disngaging on my 1275 midget. T save cylinder dumped allm of its fluid. I have replaced cylinder and it is wirking correctly however clutch is still not disengaging completely and I am unable to get any gearsw when engine is running. Have changed slave cylinder for smaller bore 1098cc one to get more throw on cluthch lever to no avail. Car is running a five speed sierra box with roller release bearing but this seems o.k. Any suggestions as to why clutch still won't disengage properly before Iresort to removing engine and... MORE
Drew, This spring I converted to a tube shock suspension and larger front disc brakes. I purchased the full shock kit with mounting components kit from Frontline Spridget. Lots of custom grinding and filing to get it to fit. Worth the effort, but not a bolt on as marketed. The kit included AVO adjustable shocks. (www.avouk.com). No part # was included on the invoice or the one page of lit from AVO. I can't tell from their web site what car they're intended for, since Spridget isn't a choice there. I believe that the eye bores at each end... MORE
Thanks David, I will look out for the different location of the joint. I have tried altering the "set" of the hose, but it then puts undue stress on it when on the opposite lock. Maybe I should have mentiond I am running on 165 tyres sothere is less inner wheel clearance than standard. Guy "Guy Weller" 24978... MORE
They changed the location of the solid-to-flexible joint on later cars so this was less likely to occur, so if you get chance, you might compare the two types and replicate the later one. Alternatively, slacken off the hose nut and twist one end slightly so that it takes up a different 'set' and doesn't contact the tyre on full lock. Just make sure the hose isn't under any additional stress. David "David Jacobs" 24969... MORE
So what is the preferred solution to tyres that rub on the flexible brake hoses on full lock? I have steel braided hoses so they are not getting damaged, but I don't like the idea of the "snatching and tugging" that must be taking place when this happens. I wondered if I could rig up a lightweigt spring (like a throttle spring) to pull the hose back clear of the tyre. Anyone had this problem and sorted it? Guy "Guy Weller" 24967... MORE
are you sure it's the frame it's rubbing? (i.e. is it visible rubbing there, or just audible?) It's not uncommon for a wheel to rub on a flexible brake hose on full lock - check this out, as they can rub through with obvious potential disastrous results! They shouldn't contact anything solid though - there is a lock-stop built into the king-pin which the stub axle contacts before anything else, unless you have ultra wide wheels! The other thing to note, once you've sorted the rubbing thing, is that if it turns more in one direction, both tie rods... MORE
Nelson, That is not what that bracket looks like either. I can't really make out the true shape that well, but it looks more like a hold down clip for a wire or brake line. -g "gerardchateau" 24965... MORE
In album labeled Stoneleigh. The car has an all steel bonnet, disk brakes and was very clean and tidy through out. I believe it still has skinny crossply tyres on solid wheels. The car is owned by a Midgetsprite club member - see the central disk on the windscreen . The Fiat picture can be removed by the moderator as it's not LBC , but it's an interesting comparison Alan "Alan" 24783... MORE
I've just recently bought an 1967 Austin Healey Sprite that was in need of some TLC, however I've also since found out it's got a few parts 'missing'! One of those was the flame trap that connects through flexible hoses the block to the inlet manifold (it doesn't have the 'Y' connector). Since fitting the missing part it now won't run properly. It has started to kick out loads of white smoke & a little bit of blue. We've compression tested the engine, fitted a new head gasket & set up the carbs so they are fine. We've now... MORE
Hi, "Cheers"... Let's get our parts straight, first. I am a little confused by your terms and the way they are used. The PCV system on the '67 is very simple. It consists of a factory diaphragm type PC V valve mounted on (in) the inlet manifold, which is fed via a flexible hose from the vapor/oil separator (aka "flame arrestor) mounted on the timing chain cover on the front of the engine. It is a "graduated orifice" (diameter of hole specific to the application). It is an "outlet". The "inlet" consists of a graduated orifice embedded within the... MORE
Any body know of a good source of second hand parts in Norter England. Due to a complete brain fade I have bent the drivers door back on its self with maximun damage to door and A post cover panel. I am NOT happy but only myself to blame forgot to put hand brake on when putting on trailer got out leaving door open and guess what rolled straight off catching door on steady post. They may be small cars but you cant catch them not matter how hard you try. "Peter Whittle" 24726... MORE
Brad!! You don't know where the water went to? You gotta find out (obviously!!:). You running a bypass hose? Is it old (worn)? These little devils (most especially the new "fluted" ones) develop little pinholes (before they develop a big one "all of a sudden") and slowly seep water. Usually it shows up in the vicinity of the steering box on the rack looking like oil. Of course, they don't leak when running unpressurized! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24690... MORE
Still do one cylinder at the time starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder, or can one do both rears at the same time? Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 24683... MORE
Kelly Not much to go on here! If I were in your shoes, I'd reject it out of hand and say nope, I wan't the original one - don't just accept what 'they want to give you'. The original's were tubular shaped, and came in two flavours a permanent bolt on one and a clamp on one, both made from tubular material, one I think is available in stainless steel, and one in chrome. If you really have problems locating one, or identifying your original one, I could scan my Moss brochure and show you the different types. Nigel... MORE
This maybe slightly off the Spridget subject but... Anyone know the thread size of a MGB front caliper bleeder? I think I'm going to give a set of those Russell Speed Bleeders a try. Anyone have any so so or negative experiences with them? Cheers, -Drew "Drew Griffith" 24541... MORE
Welcome, Sam... Suggest you follow DLancer's advice and be prepared to do both rear brakes as well (unless the other side is basically new) as that oil usually renders that particular side useless in this respect.... Afraid I do not have the parts you seek, though I do already have a copy of Blaggot's fine book, thank you! As far as additives go, don't exactly know what motivates you in this, Sam. Usually, a quality brand is all that is required along with oil/filter changes every 3K or so. It is the additive package which is usually the difference... MORE
Hi, Sue... Were it me, I would start with suspension and hydraulics (shocks, brakes), detail the engine compartment while the engine is out and go from there. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24478... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
I'd guess a little clutch drag, just slight, so it can be overcome by the syncros. Possibly a warped pressure plate or clutch disc. Maybe wear in the t/o brg or other mechanical parts. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24471... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
The Midget Mk2 - Sprite Mk3 definitely had wind up windows and a strengthened 1098 with bigger crank bearings in addition to the disc brakes of the earlier so called MG 1.5 Sprite 2.5 (or substitute b for .5) R. "Roger Stinson" 24421... MORE
First thing to do is to make sure the standard system is work at its peak efficiency. Give the system a good flush, you may need to use a flushing product though sometimes a good flush by taking all hoses off and shoving the hosepipe into any orifice you can will do the trick. An electic fan will certainly help. Gives you an hp or two more, helps the car warm up quicker and provides better cooling when in traffic. IMHO an electric fan works better as a puller not a pusher i.e. between the engine and the rad.... MORE
