MAIN
Braking System
Previous Page | Next Page
May need to bleed the clutch etc. aswell if you were low on fluid. R. "Roger Stinson" 26000... MORE
OK...went to Autozone and had this choice....Castrol "Manual Clutch Fluid" or Castrol DOT 4 ABS brake fluid. I didn't see anything LMT- GA. Is that the same as the manual clutch fluid? Don't worry. I didn't buy anything yet. "Virginia" 26001... MORE
Ok...I've checked the fluid and the resevoir is not full. There's no dipstick or anything so do I just fill it up? And is the fluid supposed to be clear? I'm used to it having a reddish tint in my Comanche. Virginia 65 Midget "Virginia" 25995... MORE
Ah, yes... The Nash Metropolitan with "B" Series running gear. My mech recently worked on one of these prior to the owner (son of the father who had owned and stored it prior to his death) taking it out of storage and moving south with it. Neat car. With around only 30K on it, in excellent shape. Had a "real" floor mounted emergency/parking brake lever! Very cool! Had basically single carb. MGA 1486 in it, I believe. Don't recall the year but figure it was mid-50's car. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25989... MORE
I recently aquired a 78 1500cc midget that has been sitting for 8 years. I have been there before, so I am familiar with what I need to do to get this thing running again (flush & recondition tank, replace hoses, etc..) but I do have a couple of questions. 1. The car had been converted to a Webber DGV carb. Is this a better carb than the stock zeniths? Does it provide better performance or should I change it back. 2. Other than victoria british, is there a different company I should be looking to for parts, a... MORE
Oh absolutely although I don't hink it is as simple as company X is cheaper than company Y. I have a pool of about half a dozen suppliers I use and I shop around each time because one company will be cheaper for one thing whereas another will be cheaper for something else. I've found Bromsgrove MG very cheap for some of the 'regular' things such as fuel pumps and brake drums, especially if you are happy to have 'pattern'. Jeremy Well, I haven't ordered any parts for the Midget for some time, the last time was about 12... MORE
Mike What kind of fuel delivery problems are you having? The correct size of the actual fuel pipe itself is 1/4 " diameter, so I wouldnt haave thought either of those two rubber hose pieces would cause a problem. It's more likely to be something else, perhaps something blocking, or fuel pump not working correctly or dirt in the carbs, dirty fuel filter etc. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25812... MORE
Hi I seeemed to be having fuel delivery problems with my '79 Midget 1500. Was wondering what is the correct size of the rubber hose pieces of the fuel line? I see that 1/4" and 5/16" both fit. Does the size have any effect on fuel pressure? Or can you use either one? Thanks Mike "mk2sprite2000" 25781... MORE
shopping for shoes in a Wal-Mart store in Texas. Douglas Hatchett of Brownwood was examining shoes on a rack when a rattlesnake concealed behind a shoebox bit him Monday. The snake fell to the floor, where Hatchett stomped it to death. Police, fire and emergency medical crews were called to the scene. The 31-year-old shopper and the dead snake were hustled to Brownwood Regional Medical Center. There, the snake was confirmed as a rattler, and Hatchett was treated and released. Wal-Mart officials say the matter's being investigated and they have no comment. Brownwood is about 120 miles southwest of... MORE
The same as the brakes, funnily enough.:-) but, daft as it sounds, it depends what is in there. Some people put in silicone fluid, but note the comments of other listers on this in earlier posts, but it is most liely to be the standard disc brake fluid which is DOT 4 these days. It used to be special girling disc brake fluid when the car was new, because that would withstand higher temperatures than the then standard drum brake fluid! I think I might even have one of the original tins somewhere ....... (acute squirrelitis) R. "Roger Stinson"... MORE
If my memory serves me correctly, your car is a Mk2 Midget with the dual master cylinder. This means that if you lose fluid from the brakes, the clutch stops working properly and I think this is the first thing to check. The chances are, if you can't see fluid leaking anywhere, that the rear wheel cylinder could be faulty. I hope that I am wrong but have a careful look. R. "Roger Stinson" 25702... MORE
Until I get the transmission from the 68 repaired, I have dug through the extras in shed. I started with the latest one that came out of a 65 Midget, that had not been on the road in over 20 years. The shifter would not move, and the input shaft was almost locked. I put an old yoke on the back and gave it a bit more pressure and got it to move. I forced the shifter into all gears, and got a nice positive, firm movement on front and rear shafts. The thing that concerned me was the... MORE
Hey Roger...I haven't noticed anything leaking and haven't noticed anything wrong with the brakes. FOr the clutch to go out that suddenly after a hard brake struck me as odd. Usually you have more warning that you're having clutch issues. At least in my comanche you do. I'll check fluid levels when I leave work today. The clutch uses DOT 4? vleonard@... 25703... MORE
I was driving to work this morning no problem. A little chilly but that's all. I had to break hard at one point to keep from running the red light. After that, I couldn't put the clutch into first gear any longer and had trouble getting it into second. When I'd slow down to a stop the car would rumble a little. If I took it out of gear it's settle down but I'd really have to work to get it back into second. Would a hard brake make my clutch go out? Could it be something else? When... MORE
Hi, Gingerino.... On a real hard "brake", any weak point in the brake system (wheel cylinder, etc) may "give way", emptying out to one extent or another, a goodly portion of the hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, wherein clutch and brake systems share fluid. If this is the case, you may spot a hydraulic fluid leak under the car where it's been parked for a while. Otherwise, check the fluid level in the Master Cylinder in any case. If your car runs separate hydraulic systems for clutch and brake, then think back......did the clutch go "in" before,... MORE
Hey Lists!! Drove my Bugeye around the neighborhood yesterday! First time since I bought the disassembled body & boxes of parts 3 1/2 years ago; first time Bugeye has been on road since 1973 (multiple POs). 1380 with headers & Maniflow exhaust - sounds gooood!. It was GREAT! Oh, sure - leaks oil from rear seal area, brakes need to be bled more, speedo didn't work .... But It Ran! In case you didn't notice - I'm just a little enthused, excited, stoked, ... Well, back to fixing problems. Really looking forward (not) to pulling engine/trans to fix oil... MORE
Sure, Ed......absolutely. Get my posts in reverse order...so got to hers before I got to your's!! :) Air in the system for one reason or another...the whole system gets checked out one way or the other in all cases anyway, and whatever parts need replacing get replaced. No "1/2 moves" with brakes! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25650... MORE
Bree... If the Master Cylinder was completely empty (rather than 1/4 full, fr'instance) then air most likely air had been pumped into the system (rather than brake fluid) as the brakes lost effectiveness, prior to your stopping off to check the fluid and topping off. When pads have really worn down, they do indeed make noise just as you say, more noticeable in the wet conditions before they truly get bad enough to be noticed in the dry. But what also happens is that as the pads wear, more "room" becomes available for hydraulic fluid within the system, so... MORE
Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE
hello to group i must say that i do not have a sprite/ midget at this time but i have owned over 30 british cars in the past and loved them all, with the only brit in the stable at this time being a 1961 109 land rover wag.iam here to ask for some help with one of my more unusual restoration projects ,im looking for a rear end that will fit in the fenderwells of my 1946 crosley wag.is there some one in the group that can give me some help with demensions from face of brake drum... MORE
The calipers are of uncertain age but were certainly in full working condition when they came off, discs have only done circa 150mls and pads approx 500mls. I replaced with Peter May big brake conversion. Anti tramps are the standard Moss items only been on the car for circa 3mths then changed rear suspension Make me a fair offer and suggest a method of transit dont know what post office max weight is. regards Peter. "Peter Whittle" 25572... MORE
Might be interested in the discs and calipers + the antitramp bar. R (UK - Devon, but I like driving in my MG ..) "Roger Stinson" 25568... MORE
I've only owned one later model Midget; the rest have been older Sprites. But, I had the same noise and while the fuel pump was indeed getting noisey with age, I agree with Paul that you should check your exhaust clearances. The frame rail can resonate like a drum when the exhaust is not quite as tight as it should be and the pipes make contact with the car. But you said that it happens as soon as you unlock the ignition ? Wait until the pilot bearing starts going out... that's a noise that will really confound you.... MORE
I am having a bit of a clear out. All the following items are from 1972 1275 Midget which I have rebuilt for Hill Climbing Pair of Seats with head rests new covers serviceable but really need refurbishing 5 Rostyle wheels original distributor pair of SU on manifold with air cleaner original steering wheel front brakes callipers, new discs, hardly touched green stuff pads anti tramp bars complete kit effectively unused Make me an offer Based in Leeds UK "Peter Whittle" 25549... MORE
Kevin.... With respect to the picture of the crankcase ventilation system at the carbs.....the system does not appear to be "pinched off" from what I THINK I see. The large hose from the front cannister on the timing chain cover appears to be clamped to a non-stock "Tee" fitting from which smaller hoses are clamped that run to the crankcase emissions breather ports on each carb. Perfectly normal set-up assuming these hoses are not clogged. Take the hose off at the cannister, clean the end and blow through it. With some restriction (the "exhaust holes" in the carbs are... MORE
