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Nigel I will strip and examine the probably get a local rebore shop to do the cra nk and block if required. Rebuilding and head reprofiling I'll probably do myself. I will probably get hardened inserts put in also. Some machining I can probably get done if required by my sub contractor machine shop. I got a bit interested in the bore Vs stroke for 1340cc . I might look into that also. I got machined and rebuilt modified mini and MGBGT engines in the past (bef ore the kids started growing up) but have really only been doing... MORE
"No hydro fluid for clutch" . . . so the clutch is not disengaged and the transmission is not disconnected from the engine during your attempts to turn over the engine. You may still be in a possible situation where the fault could be the transmission locking up while in gear but not in neutral. Don "Don May" 27707... MORE
You will loose value off the car anyway if you sell the original plate, the age related ones that the DVLA give out are non transferable and have very strange combinations of letter on them.. (z's X znc V seem to be common) you will loose about 10-20% of the value of the car if you sell the original plate. I have made all the plates on my cars non transferable any way. One more thing to bear in mind the plate is NOT transferable on any UK car without a current MOT certificate and tax disc. This is... MORE
Then how come we don't drive backwards? 8^) Nah - that would the Italians one forward and 15 reverse gears on their tan ks. The French just stopped. 8o) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
I thought the 12G295 head was the recommended head for 1000cc a series upg rade. I stand to corrected of course. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
When I first had my car a few years ago (!) I noticed that water collected in the bottom of the doors and so I drill a few small holes at the points where water seemed to remain. It may be just coincidence, but I am still using the original door frames and skins, with only surface rust top deal with. (not the easiest inside a door frame, but it can be done!) Oh, I think some Dinitrol fluid might have helped as well. :-) Of course, the holes totally ruin the originality, but on this one, I don't... MORE
G'day Don Slipping clutch could be a sign of worn clutch disk, or insufficent clamping pressure, or both. In my humble opinion, the only people who don't change everything (see below) are those who get their jollies from removing and replacing engines. Everything means: driven plate (disc) pressure plate release bearing bronze bush and bolt at the pivot point of the clutch releases bearing fork crankshaft spigot bush Do it right and you get to do it just once. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 27508... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Don... Usually, to the average owner, having to pull a perfectly good motor to replace a malfunctioning clutch is a PITA. Unless you are a "Clarici", it is s time consuming and/or labor/money consuming. Unless your clutch parts are basically new, I suggest you replace ALL while you are "in there" as considering the foregoing, clutch parts are cheap. Nothing like replacing a disc today, and having to go through the whole process again to replace a pressure plate or worn T/O bearing 6 mos down the road. Of course, if there is contamination within the bell housing, clutch... MORE
Cap'n Been there, done that. The bottom section contains only a gauze type filter about 1/32" (+/-)thick. The upper section contains some weight but when I shake it there isn't any discernible movement as I would expect from a loose charcoal particle filter. At the bottom end (now open) of the upper section of the canister is what appears to be a perforated plate sitting on three radial plastic bars. These bars meet in the middle to form three open triangle sections; I assume to allow vapor, air, fluid to pass out thru the down tube. There may also... MORE
Is it really necessary to replace the clutch pressure plate when installing a new clutch disk? Does the pressure plate have any tendency to go bad over time? Is there a test to determine if it needs to be replaced? Don 73 & 74 Midget rwa "Don May" 27482... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with anything near the plugs/dizzy/carb, suspect lack of juice to the plugs is not the issue. I'm going to swap out the coil to see if... MORE
From: Pete Skalski [mailto: pskalski@... ] Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1500 - Low voltage troubleshooting - Help Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with... MORE
G'day Robert I have sold and/or fitted about 5 sets of MGB wheels to Sprites. Standard MGB is 14 x 5, and chrome ones are about 2/3 the price of Sprite/Midget chrome wheels. With low profile tyres, they have close to the same rolling radius as the original 13" wheel, but they fill out the mudguards much better. And they fit under the standard square wheel arch. No modification at all is required on the rear. On the front, you might need to relieve the brake caliper a little, as the wheel centre is a different shape and on... MORE
Chris, Yes our Rugby team took on the world and beat them all (USA went out quite early in the competition didn't they????? )- flame suit on . At least it was a real world championship not just limited to one country plus the occassional neighbour, now what sport is that , oh yes! Rounders - double thickness flame suit and running shoes on now. 8o) My wife wore my England shirt ( Will Carlings from the 96? - 5 nations cup) to work on Monday . She works in telecommunications and they have large TV screens on the... MORE
Hello all, I'm sure someone out there can help, and would greatly appreciate any or all feedback regarding this one. The engine is turning, but not starting. I have a spark at the coil, and the dizzy has not been touched since last start. The coil is the ballast type with resistor, and the wires were moved, in order to address a bit of corrosion in the pedal box area, but all wires were returned to their original position. Thanks in advance for any words of advice regarding a fix. Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 27356... MORE
Chris Aha you de-lurked! Well if I were in your shoes, I'd be having a good look at this car current =3D=0D ly on ebay - http://tinyurl.com/y7ye - it's probably too good for what you want a =3D=0D nd the price may be out of your range, but it looks immaculate and has clearly =3D=0D had a lot of money spent on it. With the benefit of hindsight, these 'restored' cars actually represent amazing value for money. Someone else has already put all the required money into it, and all you need to do is drive and enjoy it!... MORE
Paul, There is also a hose spacing clamp attached to the hoses just to the rear of the alternator. It does not attach to the body as the front hose bracket does. If you need a photo of that location let me know. Don "Don May" 27304... MORE
I take it you have the bracket (AHA8779) made out of a strip of steel folded into a sort of triangle? The bottom of it bolts to the inner wing and the top bolts to the 'rain gutter' edge of the wing. The cooler hoses run just above the fresh air intake trunking (see pic in files called "bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg" ) it's one of those stupid yahoo locations, so posting a link may or may not work...... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgetsprite/files/bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg "David Jacobs" 27279... MORE
Paul, There is also a hose spacing clamp attached to the hoses just to the rear of the alternator. It does not attach to the body as the front hose bracket does. If you need a photo of that location let me know. Don "Don May" 27280... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Hi Nigel, I've got to say that I agree with David. When I first read it I thought like you, but on reading it again I have to agree with the fact that in it's basic form it aint no rocket! It's also true to say that it has only become "cool" in more recent years and the characteristic "Frog eyes" were solely down to economics and US laws on headlight height rather than any intentional styling foresight. Please someone correct me if I've got that wrong. By the way, my Frogeye was on Channel 5's "Fifth Gear" programme... MORE
I understood that the early cars had hand stamped numbers (cut, I believe the expression is) from the top . But the later cars had them stamped from the back resulting in raised figures that in theory could not overstamped. An anti theft device to stop people changing the identity of the car. I understand that there's a place in Brum (where else?) that supplies the c orrect VIN plates and know a place that can stamp the raised letters. I hav e the details somewhere. Aside, my MG metro has the VIN plate with raised letters riveted to... MORE
