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Jim I'm 99.9% sure the oil seal lipped side does indeed face the bearing, in other words it goes in flat side first. Yeah, front suspension can be a nightmare to take apart. Penetrating fluid all over everything at least a day before hand, is a must. Don't forget heat can be very useful as well. Just shout if you get really stuckamundo! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27176... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
I know how that feels, Nigel. When I started working on my Sprite last year the tires were flat and had glued themselves to the floor. It had been stored against the wall for 15 years. I had to use a long pole to pry/slide it away from the wall far enough to get an air hose to one of the tires so it would sort of roll. Now I have wheel dollies under all four wheels and it is easy to even move it sideways. It was a great feeling to move it out into natural light after... MORE
Well, I just couldn't stand no being in debt. I had come into a small (and I mean small) amount of cash recently due to the sell of a piece of property in a ghetto. I spent a weekend recently at Elizabeth and Fisher Jones place in the hill country of Texas (take your hat off when you say that). I was there to persue Bambi and his kin with my cousin and grandson. We took a nice buck, but that's another story. Those of you who have had the pleasure of seeing the Jones' place will agree (unless... MORE
Hi guys Thought I'd update you all once again on how the restoration is going. I've taken a few more pics that can be seen on the Yahoo Group Webpage in the Nigel-71-Midget Folder. Basically the rear axle is back on the car with the rear springs and backplates, brakes and hubs all reassembled. I've also nearly completed the left hand side (RHD Drive) front suspension. Putting the front and rear suspension components back on before all the spraying is finished is a bit out of sequence, but due to the restriction on space within my garage, I now... MORE
All offers will be considered. The car is pictured here but is now in running condition. I will post the new photo under SAVEDBLACK79MG. I have a rip free covertable top on it, and good black paint on it. The engine and transmission work good, I need to adjust the engine to run at normal speed. The brakes work and all the lights work. I just purchased the boot cover for the convertable top (used). The car still needs the inside finished. I have two mazda seats in working order to go in. Thank You . MY E-MAIL OOOHAYNOW1@...... MORE
Nigel, Amen on rear brakes for Midgets. Hate 'em! The only good part is the springs aren't as strong as the American iron I used to play with so you can "force" things. I saved my sanity on my rear brakes by buying circlip pliers. Some even include inside and outside tips. If you're not using same I strongly suggest you invest. Rob C, 75 Midget asleep for the winter. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 26982... MORE
G'day Nigel, Chris et al All the plated hardware (nuts, bolt, as well as the props) were plated in Cadmium. If you like, Cad plated. And let me support Chris - DO NOT USE COPPER FOR BRAKE LINES. Use only steel tubing manufactured for the purpose. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 26939... MORE
Hi Colin Thanks for the heads up on the prop plating. Regarding brake pipes, my suggestion was to use Kunifer - a cupro-nickel alloy, which has the advantages of copper with non of the disadvantages and doesn't rust like steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26940... MORE
David Thanks, I didn't but it's a very good idea, and I'll certainly try it next time. I have to confess rather sheepishly that I scored 1 out of 2 on the circlip test! I hit upon a problem that I solved with my usual finesse : ) The circlip was somehow 'fouling' the hub, ie it wouldn't go down completely flat against the backplate because about 2 mil of it was overlapping the hub. So I ground off about 2mil off the circlip and it seemed to fit ok. Rather than mess about with the second one, I... MORE
have you tried the trick of using a bolt screwed into the hydraulic pipe connection hole, with suitable washers/large diameter nut to press the circlip into place? "David Jacobs" 26915... MORE
One idea I have seen with this is to remove the locating pin from the cylin der and tap out the hole. A small screw can then be used into the cylinder. _____ From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:52 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Rear brake assembly David Thanks, I didn't but it's a very good idea, and I'll certainly try it next time. I have to confess rather sheepishly that I scored 1 out of 2 on the circlip test! I hit upon a problem that I solved with my usual finesse... MORE
Brad There are always exceptions aren't there! Like the heap of rust with an original supercharger under the bonnet or genuine Healey front disc brake conversion or one of the 'Sprinzel' specials! That's what so fascinating about this 'hobby' you never know what you're going to find. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26903... MORE
Arghh I hate those stupid little circlips that hold the wheel cylinders in place. Such a fiddle to get them to fit and not ping them across the garage into some box at the bottom of a pile of rubbish! No it didn't happen, really, honest! I also forgot that you need two pairs of hands to assemble rear brakes, although I suspect that Ed could assemble the brakes on both sides of the axle, one arm tied behind his back, drinking a cup of tea, watching the ball game and having a conversation with one of his irate... MORE
I'm bleeding her tomorrow. "Virginia" 26847... MORE
Ginger.... Omigod...you'll be bleeding tomorrow!!!! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26855... MORE
Eeg I'm sorry to have to tell you this, but you've done it the wrong way round. It's not always easy to know which bits come first, but any major structural bodywork on one of these cars has to happen around the door gaps and door frame. The correct sequence is to first repair the door frame then refit a new skin. Now you have a correct door to use as a template for getting the door gaps correct. Once you have the door gaps correct, you repair the inner A post, and inner sill. Now you have a... MORE
Gingerino... Considering the clutch problem is intermittent along with the fact you found (really) low fluid level in the master cylinder after the hard braking incident, I would suspect air has gotten into the line, rather than any mechanical problem. Bleeding the system (well) will tell the tale. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26831... MORE
Ok...I get the Castrol 20w50 and put it in the engine. Crank her up and she hums just sweeeeet. So, I go out to drive her. When I push in the clutch she idles down way low like something's dragging on the engine and the little red ignition light comes on. I give her a little gas and we seem to be fine. No problems putting her into gear so I go for a drive around the block. I get to the end of the street and can't get her in first. I get her in second and we... MORE
Thanks Nigel, Yes, sentimentality does enter into it. My father gave me this Sprite as a high school graduation present some 23 years ago. He actually gave it to me in pieces, and we rebuilt it together, which brought us closer, considering I was living with my mother after their divorce. So it's not just a car, it's a family heirloom! In the last three years I have installed performance suspension front and rear, uprated brakes, Weber, and LCB exhaust header. Now the drivetrain is out to rebuild the engine and install the Datsun 5- speed. Looking more closely... MORE
I filled the clutch fluid to the full level and just went out to drive her. I haven't driven her in probably a month. Now, there's almost no play in the pedal coming up off the floor before the gear engages and once when I stopped and had the clutch in I felt the engine bog down and it ground going into first. I eventually was able to gently work it in. It's also making an odd noise that I don't think I can describe but know it's not normal for this car. The oil on the dipstick registers... MORE
Its a bummer when something like that happens, I hope you didn't have to dr ive too far on 3 cylinders. All sorts of unnatural stresses on the crank et c Assuming it's a clean engine there should be plenty of oil down there, in f act should be almost flooded most of the time. Is it ? Did the pushrod drill a hole in the cam follower (the push rod rotates whe n running normally - if it sticks you get abnormal wear )or did the cam 'we ar' away the base of the follower. Either way check... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Nigel, When being brutal with the steering rods / arms make sure you don't bend th em. Another effective way of making the track rod end flats useful is to grind the flats parallel and obviously closer together to be a good fit in a good open ended spanner. You should be changing them as a matter of course any way at only =A36:50 or each, so don't be afraid of damaging the TR ends per se. Alan Aside Track rod ends and steering arms (Thomson steering joints - trade name), Mo re items made on the Leamington site... MORE
Is it just me , or has anyone else noticed a distinct lack of LBC content o ver the last week ? I thought this is what the LBCnonLBC site was set up for. Somewhere for LB C owners to discuss , flame, joke, insult etc with other LBC folk. One can be member of more than one group ya know.!!! Or just head it NO LBC as I thought was agreed by a majority !!!! Alan (once chastised for a posting with lack of direct LBC content !!!!!) - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
