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Hi David, Likely that o-ring won't survive brake fluid. Most likely it will swell and get soft and fail. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33452... MORE


And what about the 5.1 to 1 ???? I have got one and its got a strange housing, no ribs in the outside and nothing to bolt the brake pipe to. Beckers 1330 "beckers" 33427... MORE


Chris... There ARE disadvantages to "in trunk" mounting, no doubt about it. In both my past and current positions I have been trained to think worst case scenarios first and foremost. And I would not personally install a pump on the "inside" myself, for in event of accident, I personally would rather have it ALL "outside" the car, whether I had a "g" cutoff switch intalled or not. However....under normal circumstances, we are not talking the pressures of fuel injection. Leakage of any sort should be detected very quickly considering only pressboard separates the trunk from the cockpit and... MORE


Subject: Re: ? on Master Cyl piston The black coating is indeed black oxide. It is not any form of paint. We call it Chemical blacking. (or kemmy blacking - in conversation) Can be done as a Hot or Cold process. - hot is better for durability. First done on gun barrels I believe. You can buy the cold process as a kit. It only protects against surface rust when oiled, but it does help prevent deep rusting. it does provide a harder durable surface. It is also used to make steel items look pretty !! Try not to... MORE


Or every time you apply your brakes! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33318... MORE


Boy, I'd hate to do a wet boil point test on that fluid!!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33317... MORE


Hi Mike, Just as new cars have a maintenence schedule of changing the brake fluid every 2 years or 25,000 miles, you should do the same thing. Brake fluid becomes pretty corrosive in a short period of time if it's not changed routinely. So just do that and there likely won't be any corrosion on the naked internals. Ask an owner of a new car what it costs to replace an ABS module that has corroded because of not changing the brake fluid at the proper intervals. Warranty won't pay. OUCH! Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33304... MORE


Hi Mike, I suspect that getting it anodized would be more than it's worth. Likely you can use it as is or just buy a rebuilt unit. The Morris m/cyls I do a lot with don't have that anodizing, but seem to have some sort of bright plating that seems to never give up! BTW, brake fluid is a pretty fair paint remover! A bit messy, but works on a lot of paints. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33302... MORE


Hi In the process of rebuilding a tandem (dual) MC from early Sprite. Noticed that the pistons in these were painted/coated in black. It is wearing away on mine, some of it is fine while some is gone. I was just going to steel wool polish them smooth. What were these painted with? something not affected by hydraulic fluid. Should I just bring them down to bare metal and forget about it? Have alot of time and $$ in this with resleeve so I want to do the right thing. Mike mk2sprite@... 33286... MORE


I joined this group because I just got a 1977 Midget that to my supprise started after sitting in a pasture for 6 years. I fitted new tires and filled up the brake and clutch with fluid and I am on the road. There are a few pieces missing though...Like tail lights, mirrors, headlight bezels, air filter, and wiper switch. There are some of these items on ebay but the are for a 1977 MGB. What is the difference between an MGB and a Midget? Are many parts interchangeable? Thanks in advance, Cole "Cole Warren" 33277... MORE


Trevor The needles are fixed not sprung, but I take your point on replacing them - I'm replacing them as a matter of course anyway. I think they're .090" ones, they came in a rebuid kit I bought ages ago, which indcludes all the gaskets, jets, needle and sets and disc/throttle spindle screws. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33170... MORE


G'day Hammondale The recommended torque is 45 ft lbs, then to the next split pin hole. The slight play is most likely due to the hub being worn. As a consequence, the outer bearing races are close together than they should be and the inner races aren't seating properly on the ramps in the inner races. Got that? So why aren't they seating when you tighten the nut? Because the cast iron spacer is holding them apart. The solution is to machine a little off the spacer. You can use a lathe if one is avaailable, or a linisher,... MORE


Hi The 14W wiper motor was made in single speed and two speed versions. This is the round motor can type located under bonnet. Anyone changed their single speed wiper motor and switch for the two speed versions? I have the two speed wiper switch and a two speed 14W wiper motor. Someone told me the single speed motors only had 4 out of the 5 terminal positions fitted whereas the two speed ones had all 5 terminals present. Wrong. My old single speed motor had all 5 terminals fitted but not all connected. The two speed one has... MORE


Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE


Nige et al I used the same method for removing the 'frozen' piston in the brake calipers. Method clamp the the piston in the caliper half where the banjo fits. Wrap the caliper in a rag with some plced where the disc would be. Cut the rubber hose and apply airline. First mistake using workshop pressure at 6 bar (80psi) the resulting BANG brought all the technicians out of the test cells to see what the h*ll was going on (or off as the case may be). Use reducesd airline pressue for other calipers. The remaining piston can be... MORE


Anyone out there wanting a COMPLETELY rust free 79 Midget?? BTW, NO FINANCIAL INTEREST!! This is just too cheap to let go past without telling you guys. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485001583 Ok, there is a bit of surface rust in the boot, between the spare the the rear panel, but the A pillars, rear wings, and front wings, are all in excellent shape. The floors are also nice and clean, the undercoating still all intact, not peeling anywhere that I noticed. As you all know, I don't normally seek out these cars, but....... I was out doing the yard sales today in... MORE


G'day Peter Yup, we have one of those on the bench too. A pedal box with a master cylinder and flex line. But I can't say it ALWAYS works. We do a fair amount of restoration on cars that might have been sitting for 20+ years in less than ideal conditions. Like the AC Aceca. Then pedal starts to bend before the piston moves at all. I admit to making the assumption that people with access to oxy gear knew how to use it and of it's dangers if misused. There are a lot of dangers in the normal... MORE


"Before.....(you) kill yourselves" (No flying, Pete??? How "bore-ing":) Funnier than hell, Pete. Who would ever think to use the hydraulic pressure available in one's own car to "get the job done"? Hilarious! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33081... MORE


fluid is safer than compressed air, as it is not compressible, so when the piston does pop out, the liquid doesn't expand, unlike a gas. Pressure vessels are tested for leaks this way. David "David Jacobs" 33066... MORE


A little less spectacular way to remove a piston is to fit a grease nipple into the brake line hole. Then fix a grease gun to it and pump on it until the piston is out. However, I do think the explosion method is entirely appropriate on most holidays when the local fire departments are on stand by alert anyway!! Give them something to do when the neighbors give them a call!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33064... MORE


G'day Nigel et al As much as I agree with Bob (get a new one) I understand your penchant for originality and budget repairs. So here is an (almost) fail-safe method for freeing seized hydraulic components. (No, Nigel, I'm not being a smart-ass - we all have times where we just have to repair the used bit in front of us.) Take the part in question, let's say it's a clutch slave cylinder, remove all pipes and hoses, clean all the rust and debris out of the cylinder in front of the piston. You need to make it as... MORE


Headline...local British newspaper.... The local British car restorer known as Nigel was accidentally killed yesterday morning by an unknown missle of some sort which penetrated not only his body, but the wall of the cement garage in which he was working. The missle has not yet been found however, he was at the time working on some sort of hydraulic part which suspiciously appears to be missing it's piston. Police are looking into all evidence and are at this point seeking a certain Aussie currently known to them only by the name "Colin", who wrote Nigel telling him to... MORE


I never said that! It is an original BL part, sold for that application, but it just happens to have been revised at some stage, like many other parts - for example the 'original' brake pads you buy won't be the same compound as they would have been in 1971 (and I'm not shelling out 162.31 + paint and hassle for a new nose cone!) Regards David "David Jacobs" 33054... MORE


34-00 new (Welsh MG Centre) install it once / bleed it once and it will work and go on working -vs.- taking a chance on a seized, rebuilt cylinder - the neck-breaking, knuckle-ripping access, the legendary bleeding problems? Twice when it doesn't actually work? You need your brain examining Nigel.. Seriously. Steve "Steve and Sue Clark" 33047... MORE


Hi All. Well, we replaced the Master cylinder AND the slave cylinder, got the clutch bled and viola! ....the car ran like a well oiled top:) I had so much fun running around in it for 2 days...right up until I met with the local British Automotive club for a run...and it died on me in a parking lot. Damn! The fuel pump went out. We bought a new fuel pump today and I'll be up and running again in no time. The GOOD news, is that pretty soon I'll have replaced every part in the car and it... MORE