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Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE
Jim, A feeler gauge won't do for this operation. If you can get a feeler gauge in, you clearance is probably double what you are reading. There are pressures you need to simulate and feeler gauge won't do. You can buy the tools I suggested from Harbor Freight for about $30. Get a dial caliper while you are at it. About another $20. This may require more than a kiss...'-) Gerard "gerardchateau" 25461... MORE
Check to see if the hose from the top of the oil separator canister on front of the timing chain cover to the carburetors is clogged up and if the two small inlet pipes where the hoses connect at the carburetors are not clogged up. Spray a little carburetor cleaner in them. Don "Don May" 25419... MORE
I'm trying to re-install the windshield and have mixed up the pads that go between the corner of the frame and the body. There is a slight lip around the edge of the seal. Does this go up or down? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25414... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Dave You really need to find out what is causing the 'severe inward tilt', before you can contemplate fixing it! There is no means of camber adjustment because there is no need to adjust it - if the car is set up correctly it does not need adjustment. Unless you've been in a frontend shunt, or someone has whacked the car on the side in an accident - why would you need to straighten the frame? If you haven't been in an accident recently or whacked that sides wheel on a kerb or know of a PO that bent... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
My Mk 2 Sprite has not been driven for over 30 years and as I continue the resurrection process I have a concern about the steering mechanism. I would like to flush out the old oil in the rack housing but am unsure about how to go about it. Is there a simple way to open it up and just run new oil through it to flush it or would I have to disassemble it completely? I have parts on hand to replace the front brakes with discs so it would not be challenging to remove the steering completely... MORE
20.14 Exhaust Emission System. The owner or operator of any new motor vehicle or new motor vehicle engine beginning with the model year 1968 equipped with an exhaust emission system shall maintain the exhaust emission system in good operable condition and shall use it at all times that the motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine is operated. The owner or oper- ator of the motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine shall not remove or intentionally make inoperable within the state of Texas the exhaust emission system or any part thereof, except where the purpose of removal of the exhaust... MORE
The brake failure light is on the right hand side of the radio console above the cigarette lighter. (I think it should come on with the handbrake as well.) A single dash light bulb shouldn't cause total failure, as they are wired in parallel, so it's just a case of methodically checking the wiring/connections/switch etc. I think they're fed from an unfused supply. David "David Jacobs" 25268... MORE
Hi David You were right on ths wiring colours I didnt notice that differnce. The dash lights area Red wire with white trace Whereas the diode is White Wire with red trace out on the male connector and Green with orange trace on the female connector. So now I have two more questions regarding this 1) If it is the brake failure warning light where abouts on the dash would this be displayed as there is no obvious point I can see. I havnt noted this so it may be functioning well after all. 2) What could be causing... MORE
I think it's a diode rather than a fuse, but the only one I can find in diagrams is associated with the brake failure warning light circuit rather than the panel lamps. However it's possible the colour code has been mixed up - some of the wiring to the brake warning circuit diode is white with a red tracer, the panel lamps supply is the reverse, ie red with a white tracer. What colour wires have you got connected to each side of this unit? Regards David "David Jacobs" 25258... MORE
Hammodale asks..."Sound familiar?" It sure does! That's why I've got halogens and a 3rd brake light mounted high on the rollbar. So THEY can see me better. I still drive it like it's a motocycle though... very defensively...because it is small and can go unseen not only at night...but in broad daylight as well. Not a question of outrunning them at all. Question of "fitting in" with the "flow" (safety). Left to my own devices in light traffic, I'm cruising along comfortably at 3K in 5th...65 or so. One must have the ability to stop quickly, go sideways rapidly... MORE
Hi Neil I had the same problem with mine but got them working in the end although I am not sure whether the same circumstances may apply. I say this as it was my brake light and indicators that were not working, everything else worked fine. It mentioned in the Haynes Manual that these two are related and when I fixed the one both sprung back to life. What it was down to was a loose and corroded connection between the brake pedal switch at the master cylinder and the wiring loom. I choped these off and repalced the... MORE
Don, The 3.73 diff from a late rubber bumper Midget will drop a couple hundred revs at 70 mph, and larger tires a little too. Lots easier and cheaper than a different tranny. I don't remember what year your car is, but if it's a 1275, 4000 rpm all day long won't hurt it. Now that you're older (like me), you just worry more about that stuff. Just FYI, I have read that the factory test, when they were building new Spridget engines, was 100 hours on the dyno at max HP. That's about 10,000 miles pedal-to-the-metal. "Jeffrey Holmes"... MORE
Pretty sure the diff in it is the 4.55, whether its original or not! As for the engine.. its a bored out 1275.. to 1380. although not much more is know about it apart from the idle has always been lumpy and the car went like stink! The car itself was used for hilclimbing, but this was with the original 948 engine taken out to 998. this engine had been tweaked beyond all hope, and a useless road engine as a result (hence the later bigger engine). It has disk brakes on the front, riley 1.5 drums on the... MORE
Nigel, There is a number stamping at the top of the mounting flange about the same position where the brake tee union is attached. It is expressed in the form of a fraction, i.e. 10/39. This exaple would be a 3.9 diff. you can do the division or goo to the Sprogets Specs page on my site (in the Tech tips section) to see the different fraction and corresponding ratios. http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm Gerard "gerardchateau" 25133... MORE
Don, First I would be very reluctant to do it without jack stands. I don't know what sort of floor jack you have, but sometimes they can fail suddenly. If you so it that way take other precautions. That said, when you do it, I would keep one with very slight pressure on the brake, this will simulate some road friction and keep the wheels from backlashing should something unexpected happen. (your foot will also be ready should you jack give you a surprise.) Gerard "gerardchateau" 25132... MORE
Don't know. The car was not driven for almost a year and I do not know what all the PO did to it. The guy I bought it from bought it running, drove it home and a couple of times around the block, did some work on the battery pan, put in a new radiator and hoses then got too busy at his job to do more so never took it off the no-op license and let it sit for almost a year, then when he tried to drive before selling it discovered he could not get it into... MORE
You can certainly put a RX7 rotary in a Midget, but you'd better put in the RX7 trans too. There'll be a lot of parts which will have to be fabricated - exhaust, guage hook-ups, cooling, etc, etc, etc. You'll then have a car which will go faster than either the suspension or brakes can safely handle. I'd suggest you just sell the Midget and buy a RX7. "Jeffrey Holmes" 25076... MORE
Hi All I have the same problem only It is just on the front left side. I changed the flex hose too. I didnt how ever change or rebuild the master cylinder.I am wondering if it could be the brake union. Maybe the slideing part is stuck. Is this possible? This is where I was heading next. Thank you Rick "mtman19552002" 25062... MORE
Gerard is right on the money. Replace the hoses. And consider getting rid of that silicone. Regards, Jeffrey "Jeffrey Holmes" 25058... MORE
