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Hey group. I think its time to pass my beloved 62 midget onto someone else. But only after Don May gets first refusal!... I'm not in a panic to move it, but i would like to see it go to a good home. Its photos are in the album section under 62 midget... its an original 948 side curtain model with a very new (under two weeks) rebuilt head. it has very nice seats, good dash, everything works, including the windshiled squirters. the hand brake needs adjustment and it could do with a brake bleeding or the very least... MORE
In my junkyard explorations today I came across an Austin car that I had never seen before. It was rear drive hardtop coupe, had a 948 in the cab with a single downdraft carb. Drum brakes all round, most of the markings and nameplates were missing. It looked like an Austin Amercia or Morris 1100, but was rear drive. (c. 1964?) It had a faded rear deck lid that appeared to be A40. I was interested in the rear ratio.... hmmmm? "riley_datsun" 29772... MORE
And Great to drive over at night. Did it in my Mk3 Midget one April, on a London to Edinburgh overnight run. You can really get the speed up, as you can see when there are any other cars coming from the opposite direction (the lights from several miles away is a dead give-away!!) Daytime is a little trickier, though, especially if there is another car too close in front, and you need to make a run at a steep bit. Another steep bit is Applecross, on the Western coast of Scotland. That I thnk is a bit steeper... MORE
The ex Cap'n wrote...."Wrynose" You people "over there" have got the coole st names for things! :) My favourite in the Lake district was the "Hardknot" pass. Single track with passing points. Longish straights and a few hairpins. I s eem to remember it finishes with cattle grids and a chicane though a farmya rd type environs, - solid granite walls. I thought I was saving petrol by trying to coast down the mountain, but wh en the brakes overheated and I had no engine braking I found out how hard t he granite walls of the barn were.... MORE
I think it was Alan who was querying this... either he didn't know that Bugattis were blue (unlikely) or he didn't know that thery were French. ************************************************** I knew most Bugattis were blue, although I'm looking at a (Belgian)1920's B lack one at the moment. The famous type 35 (from 1924) usually blue and sti ll raced in historic GP events. I thought they were Italian up until modern days, but no. The early cars were made in Italy 1899 to 1911 'ish Then the family moved to France and production was increased-particularly a fter the 1st world war.... MORE
To Pootle ... is in my terms , a slowish kinda drive. Not racing anywhere, just driving along admiring the scenery. :-) Same meaning in our household - my wife says so. But also includes stops fo r photography. As opposed to plod, as in plodding along, when you just go slowly, surely, safely, same slow pace, nothing exciting ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Z Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Hi, I can't find anything on dash pads for a pre 1968 midget MKII - it is just a simple cylinrical shape all the way across - does anyone have a source for these? Also, where do people get interior carpets/panels & seat covers if they are restoring to the correct original colors? Moss is very limitted and does not have the original colors that came standard with the car. For example, my early 1965 MKII (GAN3L/39468) was originally Riviera Blue with Riviera Blue seats, carpet and panels. I have a 1965 sales brochure showing an example with my... MORE
Trevor J. I am using the original Spridget gearshift lever with aftermarket black leather- wrapped gearshit knob topped with a metal disc AH emblem. Picked it up many moons ago from Sports and Classics. Standard aftermarket part also comes in Walnut as well. Another lister already posted the modification to the stock pressure plate so the Datsun disc can be used so, you should be all set! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29478... MORE
Bob- I can't wait. Have the engine out already! Talked with Rivergate, and due to moving into their new shop, was advised they were just now filling November orders. It would be several months wait. Given that I am at the end of a ten year project, I want the car running the first day it gets above freezing in Ohio (which will probably be mid July). I had also heard that the Riverside clutch set-up could be an occasional problem. Apparently they use the MG pressure plate but a Toyota throw-out bearing. Not sure of the disc. Paul... MORE
I've only put about 500 miles on my Rivergate conversion. I initally had questions about the custom clutch. I thought the trowout bearing was a datsun part? Anyway... I was concerned about being able to replace the clutch should rivergate not be in existence when the time came. However, I talked to my local transmission shop, and they said it would be no problem to fabricate. I plan on putting some serious miles on the Midget this summer. Ask me again at the end of the year how it is going. Otherwise I am happy with the clutch performance.... MORE
I've seen them all shades of black including underseal. I've seen them with chrome and stainless trims. I've seen them rusty brown with holes. I've seen them with painted over rubberized paint. I've seen them with the same colour and finish as the rest of the car. Which although is not original looks far better, and classic IMHO. Mine will be the same colour as the bodywork. Not original maybe (who cares ?) but mine. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Remind me never to take these apart again, what a job getting the rev counter bezel back again. The inner disk just would not drop in, it had sprung out never to go back. Two G clamps and a small hammer persuaded it to reseat. Found a selection of gasket material by the yard to make all new seals. Have tried 12 v 5 watt side light bulbs, much improved but they are bayonet connectors not MES so am working on adaptor. First choice is to dismantle 5 w bulb and unsolder it to give a glass envelope with... MORE
Brad ooooh you're my age, and there was me thinking you were an old fogey like the Cap'n! ;) I'm not with you on the slotted holes for the door panels. What slotted holes? Are you referring to the cut-out section for the internal door latch/lock? Or are you referring to the heat stamped pattern on the vinyl trim itself? I'm not planning on 'replicating' the vinyl trim for the door panel, only the hardboard panel itself, I'll re-use the old vinyl door panels which aren't in bad condition apart from one tiny tear on one of them. But... MORE
Cap'n It's coming on! I've been seriously hampered by the weather here lately, which hasn't been very conducive to spraying! We had snow here a week or so ago, since then its been milder but with that comes rain and wind; very windy here again today. But I've pushed on doing what I can, and the bodyshell with front panel assembly and both wings in position is now about 90% finished in gloss. I'm just doing the black sills now and finishing both doors. I had a friend come round midweek, who hadn't seen the car since it was... MORE
Guy The shims are called anti squeal shims and are listed in the Moss catalogue, I have the shims on my 66 Sprite and the brakes don't squeal. The only problem I have with the shims is that I am never sure which way up to fit them since they have a cut out either at the top or bottom. Get some shims they can't cost much and should solve your problem. I think some people leave the shims out to provide more clearance when fitting the new pads, since they can be a tight fit, however like most... MORE
I recently renewed the front brake pads and they now squeal whenever I touch the brakes. I removed them and glooped the backs with copper-ease but it has made no difference. They don't have shims, and I don't have any in the parts box either. Would chamfering the edge of he pads slightly help? Any other ideas? Guy "Guy Weller" 29211... MORE
OUR NIGE SAID (Long time since I used that expression, remember OUR NIGE & RED FIVE) "Original Midget & Sprite by Terry Horler Published by Bay View Books ISBN 1-870979-45-1 Doesn't cover any form of restoration, but is invaluable as a reference boo k, charting production changes and historical information. (Does come up on ebay but is horrifically expensive!)" ************************************************* SO I'm looking into buying a copy and the prices at Amazon are currently. AMAZON U.K. Search for Horler: then listed under the description, Original Sprite and Midget, The complete guide to AH and MG etc etc =A324.99 NEW,... MORE
Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE
It may be the gage. Do the thermostat, or at least check it. Pull it out and put in a pan of cold water on the stove and bring to boil. It should open around 160 or 180 degrees. Then either check water temp against gage with a thermomator ( I use an instant read cooking thermometer) (Maybe that is why I am not married any more lolol) or use the shade tree mechanics method. 100 - 130 degrees. Hot to touch but can hold hand on hose for about 10 seconds. 130 - 150 degrees Hotter, can hold... MORE
it sounds a bit like a sliding sun roof, rather along the lines of the 'Web asto'. The plexiglass could be a wind deflector? Absolutely correct. You need a hole in your roof to fit it. Used on tin tops or occasionally in a removable hard top for a sports car, although I can't think why. Common fitting to MGB GTs Have a look on MGB site I'm sure you'll see one or two. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
Yes, I have a standard Small British Garage (SBG) and have removed two rear axles and suspension in one go. Putting back together will probably as ind ividual parts though. As far as I can remember, I placed a wheelable trolle y jack under the diff housing I put axle stands with about 9" square 1/2" ply between the stand and floor pan (to spread the load) on either side of the car, under the rear bulkhead. I remember having to move these though, b ut at which stage of the operation me memory fails me It will become... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
G'day Steve No, moving the slave cylinder will make no difference, just like shortening the pushrod will make no difference. (See disclaimer below.) You are dealing with hydraulics here. A push of X" at the pedal will result in movement of Y" at the slave cylinder. Moving the slave cylinder will result in the internal piston being at rest in a different position down the bore of the cylinder, but the distance the piston travels when you hit the pedal will not change. Disclaimer: UNLESS you move the cylinder (or shorten the pushrod) to the point where the piston... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
