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Regularly seeing oil pressures in excess of 400 psi on my '71 - so I guess it must be braided, then. 8^) Steve "Steve and Sue Clark" 31495... MORE
But then nobody has mentioned that the braided hoses are very expensive. V.B. says their rubber oil cool hose have a working presure of 400 psi and the SS braided resist up to 2,000 psi. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 31484... MORE
Hi Ben Don't forget that plain rubber hoses aren't just a rubber tube..... or at least they shouldn't be!! The standard hoses should have a sort of fabric mesh inside the rubber, a bit like the wires in a garden hosepipe to stop it expanding under pressure. I've never heard of a plain rubber oil cooler hose popping....if they did nobody would make them! BL fitted plain rubber to Cooper S Mini's, MGB'S and even Midgets (with the optional cooler)and they never gave any problems. James (President of the plain hose fan club) "James" 31482... MORE
The thermostat closes at 170 degrees F. Which means the rubber hose (engine to thermostat) will always be heated to 170 degrees, and the hoses from the thermostat to the oil cooler, sometimes. Rubber at 170 degrees is very pliable and any week spots which develop over time, will blow at the worst possible time and place. With the braided hoses, it will help keep the hose from expanding, forming a bubble at 70-80 lbs of pressure, and blowing a large hole. Replace them when you replace your radiator hoses and you shouldn't have a problem. I have 1500... MORE
G'day Ben I have a mate who melted his engine bearings three times in three successive race meetings, before he discovered the problem. The first melt-down was due to oil surge on corners, and he thought he had fixed that by putting a baffle in the sump. Two more melt-downs later, he discovered the oil cooler was clogged with the metal powder from the melted bearings. Don't ever use a second hand oil cooler. And don't forget you will need to buy the oil hose adaptor to the block, and the adaptor to the oil filter. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts"... MORE
I've got braided hoses but run an "off-engine" oil filter set-up ('cause I like to use the largest filter I can) and I like the protection the braid offers the rubber from any chaf, etc. Yet, James makes excellent and valid points for using rubber. Also, in the event you later decided to install an "oilstat", it's a much easier job with the rubber hoses. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31454... MORE
HI Everyone I need help again plz Whats the best way to undo brake lines with out breaking them is heat ok ??? Will the heat hurt the Pressure Differential warning Actuator (4 way brake union) and whats the best way to undo the flex lines from the steel lines without heat??? Thanks Members for all the info i have received already. Great job thanks again ED "nastyboy089" 31436... MORE
Hi Ben The stainless braided hoses look good, but my experience with braided hoses (fuel hose) is not positive. I find that the stainless braiding either eats it's way into the rubber hose and chews through it, or the rubber hose inside perishes without showing any visible problem. The first you know about it is when the pipe is dripping in petrol! Ok, oil pipe is thicker and probably under less tension/movement than a petrol pipe and it doesn't 'melt' like some cheap petrol pipes do with modern fuel. Even so I'd rather see the rubber pipe and be... MORE
hi, so looks like i am gonna get a new one, the kit come with oil lines etc! i was planning on gettign the one with s/s braided hoses, apart from looks have these got any benifits over the normal ones? Thanks again for all you Help guys ben Ben Lawlor 31426... MORE
Hi everyone I hope some one can help me I have a 75 midget 1500 with a dual master brake cylinder My problem is i can't bleed the rear brakes no fluid will come out i have no problem bleeding the front brakes Could i have a problem with my master cylinder?? or the pressure differential warning actuator?? and Is there any way i can test my problem. If anyone can help me plz post it and if you could email me that would be great Thanks ED "nastyboy089" 31379... MORE
Ed.. 2 years isn't that long for the engine/ drivetrain though this will most likely not be so for the hydraulics. Have a portable FIREX standing by. Assuming the fuel pump is doing it's thing, add as much fresh gasoline as you can. Pull the plugs and using a healthy battery, turn over the motor until the oil pressure comes up. Do this in 5 second spurts over a period of time so as not to abuse the starter motor. Reinstall the plugs and fire it up, running initially gently. Good luck! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31381... MORE
Hi all As discussed in the previous thread my 1500 is totally standard bar the K&N filter, which was fitted and set up by the MGOC on their rolling road. However it has always been a bit hesitant, especially pulling away from cold. I also noticed it yesterday when it was fully warmed up and I was driving along at about 40.Ipressed the pedal down to accelerate and there was a definate hesitation, almost like turbo lag. Naturally I checked under the bonnet to see if some wag had fitted a turbo, but alas not! When I bought the... MORE
Many of the replacement switches that fit in the pedal box are of poor quality. And... to get enought clearance to put the switch in, you need to take the pedal box loose. These might be some of the reasons the PO made alternate arrangements. "Trevor Jessie" 31373... MORE
hi, ever since i got my midget i had always been aware of the brake switch being inside the car right nest to the pedal- i always thought this was kinda strange! But as i have never really 'looked' at anyone elses midget i didn't know NE diffrent!! then the other day i was looking through the old receipts from the car and there was an invoice to the PO charging for a new brake switch and bracket!! Was only eairler that i looked into it and found out that a nice neat little switch is ment to go... MORE
Yeah. It probably will handle good that way...:) I live in an area that has steep drive ways and I like my cars "looowww". The two things never mix so that's why Im going air ride. I haven't ran my Midget yet with the air ride suspension. Iv only had the car for about 8 months and 4 of those months its been in my shop being "tricked out". I do have air ride in the front of my 85 supercharged Toyota MR2 and Tokico 10 way adjustable shocks on all 4 corners and the car rides surprisingly very... MORE
P.S. skip the cupro nickel, go with silicone brake fluid and don't drive when the temp is below 32 degrees F or 0 C. No rust and the wheel cylinders last longer. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 31269... MORE
I love it when a plan works out...so far that is. As I mentioned in an earlier post, my new 175/70x13 Yokohamas on the new 5.5 inch Dayton wires were rubbing on sharp bumps and right hand turns. It was scraping the RWArch, and I was a victim of the dreaded driver side droop, not to mention the extra lbs I carry...hitting about 260 at my last weigh in. So, shopping at my handy Checker Auto yesterday, I find a "helper spring" in the trailer parts. Two leaves about 16" long, one for each side. I just installed the... MORE
Just a couple of tips about adjusting rear brakes and handbrake. Firstly, you MUST totally back off the handbrake before you attempt to adjust the rear brakes. Preferably, remove the clevis pin where the handbrake cable is attached to the compensator mounted to the diff housing. This ensures that the adjustment at the wheels is not interfered with by the handbrake being partly on. After you have adjusted the brakes, you can then re-connect the handbrake and adjust it. You will often find that the clevis pin will no longer fit, and you have to back off the handbrake... MORE
You know, this exactly describes my issue. I'm SO glad I don't have to try to bleed the breaks. My ebrake comes almost vertical. For me, I have to pump it twice. TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 31180... MORE
On the 68, I had been having some trouble with the brakes. I had a new master, rebuilt the rear slaves, new hoses on the front, yet recently, I was losing a trace amount of fluid. Every week, I had to add a small amount of fluid to the master. I also had to pump the brakes to get them to grab well. Only once, but still. It finally occurred to me, DUH, that the E brake lever was coming up alot more than it needed to. So I spent some time cleaning the rear drums and shoes. Then... MORE
Ok, now that we have weeded out the "normals", those of you with a twisted sense of humor, (you know who you are) need to check out SciFi Channel tonight. If you have my joke disc, and are not watching Tripping The Rift, YOU ARE CRAZY!!! This has got to be one of the most bizarre things I have seen in a while. It comes on in Texas at 9:30 pm, the rest of you, figure it out for your time zone. Just remember, it is NOT to be missed. I expect reports in the morning. Brad Brad Fornal... MORE
Hi Rick, I am primarily using a product I buy at a local concrete/builder supply store. They no longer sell the old silica sand that I used to use. The name of this new media is Black Beauty. It looks like black sand but I don't know what it is, just that it doesn't have the silica which is said to be potentially harmful. In any case I still use a full face mask and breathe well filtered air. My compressor has a three horse motor but the air tank is only large enough to allow relatively short blasting... MORE
I just had my Master Cylinder resleeved by Apple Hydraulics in NY. I haven't put it back together yet so I can't testify to how it will work, but the work certainly looks good and they were very prompt with the service. Also, I had rounded the face getting the pistons out (don't ask!) and they milled it flat for me again at no charge. Jim "JTMCO" 31017... MORE
A lot of us on the west coast use Sierra Specialty Automotive. http://www.brakecylinder.com/ Good people and good work. I don't know what your master cylinder is, single or dual, but they did my dual 3/4" with SS for $100. I don't think it will corode like a "new original" and I think they guarantee it for 10 years not to. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 31009... MORE
In the Uk a new cylinder costs about =A330 ($50) and there aren't that many different types so all are easy to get hold of. I also almost always get away with a =A310 rebuild kit unless it has seized as a result of having been standing for many years. Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport Don - Why would you want to sleeve a master cylinder? never heard of such a practice, thats something your better of replacing the whole thing, the shipping in both directions will probably pay for the new cylinder? Later Rick Bender christopher_valentine@... 31007... MORE
