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April 07, 2004
Just a couple of tips about adjusting rear brakes and handbrake.
Firstly, you MUST totally back off the handbrake before you attempt to
adjust the rear brakes. Preferably, remove the clevis pin where the
handbrake cable is attached to the compensator mounted to the diff housing.
This ensures that the adjustment at the wheels is not interfered with by the
handbrake being partly on.
After you have adjusted the brakes, you can then re-connect the handbrake
and adjust it. You will often find that the clevis pin will no longer fit,
and you have to back off the handbrake cable so that it will come through
enough to put the pin in. If this is the case, you have just demonstrated
to yourself the problem referred to above.
Until you next change brake linings, you can adjust your brakes at the
wheels without having to disconnect the handbrake. But next time you fit
new linings, you will need to go through this process again.
Why is all this necessary? Simple. Owners (and mechanics) who see the
handbrake lever pointing to the sky and the rear brakes not coming on,
assume they have a problem with the handbrake. So they adjust the handbrake
cable to solve the problem. Many cars will have the adjustment right to the
end of the threaded part of the cable, and the handbrake is still not
fantastic. But the problem wasn't the handbrake at all - it was poor
adjustment of the brakes themselves at the wheels. So now the handbrake
mechanisms inside the brake drums are taking the place of the brake shoe
adjustment, with the result that neither of them work correctly. This has
probably happened to every Sprite (and MG, Morris, Austin, Mini.....) at
some time over the last 40 years. Now is the time to zero everything and
get it right.
avagoodday
Colin
"Colin@SpriteParts" < colin@... > 31195
Posted on April 7, 2004 06:54 AM
Posted to category(s) Braking System | Drive Train | Electrical System | Lubrication System | Miscellaneous | Suspension & Steering | Wheels
