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I connected the amp's sense cable to the accessory fuse on the fuse box. It now works! The only odd thing is that it does not come on at the key's accessory position, but the "on" position. This seems to be the case with other "accessories", like my electric radiator fan. Is there some sort of issue here? BTW, there seems to be no requrement for grounding the sense cable individually; there is one big ground cable from the amp for the whole thing. Now that I know that it can work in this way, I may connect the... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill, no special oil for break in. For a complete rebuild to factory or better tolerances, I'd think 10W30, but you might prefer 15W50. Since the price of petroleum oil has increased so much, and Mobil 1 is $4/qt at Wal-Mart, I've started running it in everything, Sprite, Caddy, Volvo, lawn mowers, generator. Keeps things simple. An early (500 miles?) oil change might be a good idea, sort of just in case there's something unexpected left in the engine. I once did an instrumented test with... MORE
any gear oil in it. any advise on this is welcome. I have restored many many cars in my time including lots of engine rebuilds, but have never had to tear into a tranny. sounds like these are pretty easy though. or if someone happens to have a good used laying around let me know. that way I can get on the road for this summer. otherwise it will probably be a winter project for me. I'm in CO by the way thanks in advance mike "mblotz" 37824... MORE
Hi all, just bought a complete but knackered 1275 74 model and am starting to look at what I am going to do with it mechanically (apart from the necessary reshell) I bought book on A series tuning as I have only rebuilt MGB engines before and have decided that althogh I want to keep the car as original as possible the air filters and exhaust manifold were non standard so these will be replaced with K&N's plus a complete stainless exhaust and manifold. These parts seem to be the only non original parts on the whole car. Is... MORE
I have a 75 which was the first year electronic ignition was available. My car was a basket case when purchased. I put in a new solenoid and installed an aftermarket ignition box either Pertronix or Mallory (I forget which) as I was so new to it at the time I had the work done. That fixed things. It's probably a good idea to replace the solenoid on principle (they're inexpensive) and see where that gets you. IF that doesn't help I would recommend putting in a new ignition module and coil. It's more money but you can forget... MORE
Hi, I am a new MG owner and know NOTHING about them. Mine does not run... Was told it ran great last fall, but it had an over heating problem. Engine cranks, but has no spark at the coil. When testiong for power at the positive side of coil it shows none... so I ran a hot wire from the battery to the coil and it started... but only ran less than a minute and it stalled... tried to restart and it had no spark... I disconnected the power wire... rehooked and it started again for a few seconds.... MORE
Drunken debauchery, you would have felt very out of place. Especially since you wouldn't get into the hot tub............... "" 37690... MORE
Oh, you don't know that for real...the ones I talk to sound HOT!!! "Jim" 37675... MORE
How about cold air AND ram air induction? - i.e. take it from the radiator grille area like the heater trunking intake. David "David Jacobs" 37514... MORE
A great idea - except for one thing - it doesn't work. For those of you who DO want to know how hot dogs are made: I drove around for a good while to make sure everything under the hood (er, bonnet), was up to normal op temps. Air temp 82F Water temp 180F (you metric guys will have work out C, or K or Under hood temp 130F whatever for yourselves) Then made 8 runs, 2 East and 2 West with underhood air intake and 2 East and 2 West with wheel well air intake. WOT @ 2000... MORE
A cool air intake sure sounds like a good idea, but...the stopwatch will tell all. I'll do some runs on the next hot day and report back. "joe blxfstz" 37495... MORE
The obvious answer is a before and after test with a dyno/rolling road, but there are pitfalls here for the unwary - your car will be stationary rather than moving through the air, though a blower is usually directed at the radiator/engine bay. The bonnet will also be open rather than closed, so airflow into your cold air intake might not be the same. These changes in operating conditions can all affect the HP, though if you endeavour to keep the same conditions, you might pick up a difference due to the new intake. On the other hand, if... MORE
Good idea. It's switchable (two rubber plugs) from hot to cold air, so I can do a side-by-side. I'll give it a try on some good hot day. I think it pretty much has to be done on a real road to get the full effect of under bonnet vz wheel well temps. "joe blxfstz" 37491... MORE
G'day all Let's start with a definition. Those non-standard tubular pipes that bolt onto your cylinder head to let the exhaust gas out, and eventually join into one "collector" for the exhaust pipe, are called "extractors" or in some languages "headers". "Exhaust" includes these plus everything down the line, past the muffler to the chrome tip on the tail pipe. I guess we are talking here about insulating the extractors, not the entire exhaust system. We run in all our engines on a calibrated engine dyno. It lives in a 10ft x 15ft brick room with a huge fan... MORE
Sounds like a cheap fix. One of your rubber lines going up to the cooler in the bottom of the radiator is most likely the culprit. Remove the line tha t is leaking, cut it back about an inch, replace and reclamp. Brad "" 37461... MORE
I have been watching this thread on brake lines and there appears to be some confusion. There are no braided brake lines. You can get braded brake hoses that go from the brake line to the calipers or wheel cylinders. These have to be flexible to allow them to bend with wheel travel. Brake lines go from the MC to the wheels area. They do not flex. If you are replacing brake lines, buy a complete set of copper/nickel alloy lines from Moss or the usual suppliers. They are the correct length with all fittings attached, bend easily to... MORE
Joe and others.. I understand that keeping the air intake cooler is definatly a good thing. But as I was saying I have heard that keeping the exhaust manifold hot, insulated is a good thing, independant of the fact it helps keep the engine area cooler. Mainly because of gas flow is better at hot temperatures? Or may be its because changing the density of the gas, as it cools down restricts the flow? "gav_newman" 37447... MORE
Keeping intake air cooler is a good thing in the summer. Keeping the ex manifold hotter is a bad thing (unless, maybe, if you're running a turbo). "joe blxfstz" 37444... MORE
Well for what it's worth 32 years ago I flipped a 62 sprite by running off the road skidding sideways. Front wheels were in the ditch rear wheels were up in a yard ended up hitting a rock on the passenger side rocker panel which in turn put as airborne and we ended up in the middle of the road upside down. No roll bar I was sore without a scratch my friend ended up with seven stitches to the back of his head from the support bar for the top. I personally think in this case a roll... MORE
The bleeder thingy should be either 7/16" or 3/8". An ordinary end wrench may work, but if they are stubborn, it will just round over the fittings and slip. Busted knuckles, much swearing, a trip to the store for new ones follow. Much better to have a couple special purpose wrenches which are made for use on tubing fittings. You'll need only a couple to do the whole job, so pick them up for a few dollars wherever you get the new brake lines. They'll save a lot of headaches. If you decide to replace all the lines, plan... MORE
The steel brake lines at Advance come in various straight lengths, so you'll want to buy the appropriate lengths and then bend them. They are easy to bend by hand. I don't know what sort of shape your present lines are in, but if they're not leaking or damaged, or aren't corroded, you may not want to replace them all. On the other hand, new ones are not very expensive, so it might be good insurance to do them all and eliminate any worry on that score. I believe Advance will also have new hoses, caliper kits, brake pads,... MORE
The crank pulley on my 1968 1275 engine has two identical marks, about 10 degrees apart. Which one is correct for ign timing? "joe blxfstz" 37343... MORE
I finally have my 1500 back on the road and am able to drive it agian after 16 years of having it in bits. I have a number of questions, some are 1500 only and some will be relavnt to late 1275. First one, What RPM is 60MPH? My car is alagedly giving 60MPH at 4K RPM in 4th gear, given I was on the motorway keeping up with traffic and overtaking some of it I am not convinced it is reading right! at points it was reading close to 70, others lower than 60, but the revs remained... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
