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Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
in short, how is it fitted!. Mounting the oil cooler seems easy enough, fitting the sanwich plate seems relativly simple, but how are the hoses routed?, there does not seem to be any easy way to route them! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37257... MORE
I guess I wasn't clear. I meant to cement shiny Aluminum foil to the back side of a regular heat shield to increase the amount of heat reflected away from the carbs. Bob A simple insulation trick would be to take some contact cement and slather the "hot" side of the heat shield and then press and roller on some aluminum foil, shinny side out. That would increase the reflectivity of the shield and only cost about $0.02 USD. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37217... MORE
G'day all The MGB heat shield will work, after you cut it in half, but it might not be easy to find one that the owner will part with. They might prefer to sell the manifold, carbies, heat shield etc as a complete unit. Mini Cooper S had 1.5" SUs as an option, and their heat shields were actually two pieces with a bridge joining them that also held the return springs. You could use the appropriate side of this set-up if only you could find them! I can only supply them new, as a pair, for around $35... MORE
Hmmm, Vince.... I wonder if scotch/water can be used as an automotive cooling medium......does Dewar's run cooler than Haig & Haig while protecting down to -30F? }80<?? If the indication is falling over time for no apparent reason, than it's an indication the indicator is on the way out (did I mention "indication/or" enough times ??:) You sure you got a working thermostat in there?? OK....I think I need a drink, now. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37178... MORE
There is a poly-block that goes between intake manifold and carb prior to the heat shield/carb. And I recall there was (asbestos-type) insulation on the shield of my PO'd MGA's. I do not recall this on my later post-60/70 Spridgets or MGB's. Not on my Frog restored by PO, either. Of course, any Home Despot will carry something which can be used along wit h modern adhesives that will do the trick. Or heat reflective paint/coating. Beyond higher engine compartment temps in warmer weather which translate into higher induction air temps and gener ally less peppy performance under these... MORE
The heat shields are just sheet metal with no insulation. They block some radiated heat from reaching the carbs, and also deflect hot air so they work okay. Certainly not a bad idea to insulate, though. Oh, the also keep leaking fuel from dripping directly on the hot exh manifold. "joe blxfstz" 37172... MORE
A simple insulation trick would be to take some contact cement and slather the "hot" side of the heat shield and then press and roller on some aluminum foil, shinny side out. That would increase the reflectivity of the shield and only cost about $0.02 USD. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37191... MORE
The easiest way is to take a kitchen meat thermometer, and take off the radiator cap, start car and when the temp gage needle starts to go up, put meat (or candy)(or whatever) thermometer in top of radiator and watch the temp on both. They should be close to the same. You can take a sheet of newspaper and cover the radiator to block the air from the fan to allow it to start to get close to 212 degrees as the upper end of the test. I think this is easier than removing the gage and sender and... MORE
170F is really nice and cool..... ..ASSUMING the gauge is accurate...which it may not be considering the stalling symptoms/circumstances you mention, hea t shield not-withstanding....and most especially so considering I believe t he HIF series is temperature compensated with respect to mixture? Suspect it's more like 190-200F under there with such symptoms but heat shield is the way to go in any case considering summer temps. I'd check that gauge, though? Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37155... MORE
170 certainly isn't very hot. Any idea whether you guage is correct? If you've got a 180 thermostat it ought to go right up to 180 in the first mile or two. It wouldn't be much of a trick to make up a heat shield from a piece of tin. "joe blxfstz" 37150... MORE
The gauge can be calibrated Jim for zero and span. I used a pot of boiling water for the high end, just place the temp bulb in it. I keep it boiling with the propane torch to ensure 212 deg. The needle can be removed from the gauge and replaced in the correct place if need be. If the span is out the small linkage within the gauge can be tweaked very lightly to make a difference. I used fresh air for the low end point. Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 37159... MORE
midgetsprite listers, Please take a few minutes to go visit Ed Kaler's site at: http://www.justbrits.com Click on the "The why" link in the center of the page and proceed as you see fit. Cheers!! Jim - about ready to start up the *hot* Midget in Dodge City Jim Johnson 37158... MORE
"Water Wetter and/or dishwashing liquid" Well, James.... I've always said "fair sex" is better than no sex at all. :) Appreciate your feedback on this. I've heard diswashing liquid (Joy, Ivory) can be substituted for Water Wetter but have always opted for the latter 'cause I just didn't really know and I ain't about to put just anything "in there" for "whatever" reason. Thank you. Cap'n Bob Mitey Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37143... MORE
Dave Fitted the exhaust manifold but it is hard up against the chassis rail, will show you. I am convinced the engine runs easier and purrs along smoother. I was going to put K&N air filters on, I wanted the one that spans the two carbs as I like the look of it but an owner I met at a show said they just made it noisier and no better so he reverted to the original ones but kept the sports manifold. You can have a look at my steering wheel problem and anyone got an oil cooler for... MORE
I wonder if you can combine the latest fads and use liquid nitrogen for engine cooling?! David "David Jacobs" 37133... MORE
I guess it all depends on what you want to spend...at $25/gal from Evans Cooling Systems I had forgotten about a specific cooling medium that does not use any water at all. I had read about a few years ago when I was considering a return to racing - Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol. It goes in as a goo, then thins as it is heated. They say: Water Free " Lifetime" Formula No Corrosion...... Ever! Non Hazardous Eliminates Overheating Reduces "Knock" and Engine Damage Quite the claims, aren't they? Just a bit more information to...confuse or ignore LOL "Jim" 37131... MORE
When I got my tires last month at the local big tire chain, they were peddling filling the tires with nitrogen as a way to increase gas mileage. I asked counter boy how that worked and he gave me some load of crap obviously written by the marketing genius who came up with the pitch. (Who's probably getting rich on it... so how smart am I?) I asked him since air is already about 80% nitrogen, why should it make that much difference. So he tried again. I just laughed at him. Now they're on the radio pitching it,... MORE
"and as everyone knows, a basic solution will retard corrosion"...uh not quite...as everyone knows aluminum is amphoteric and will dissolve quite happily in alkaline solution. Not a problem if everything is cast iron, but if you're running an aluminum water pump or cylinder head -OOPS!!! "joe blxfstz" 37122... MORE
Well, Bob, I have pretty fair sex...but that really isn't any of your business, now, is it? (references available upon request) ;) I ass-u-me-d the reference was to liquid detergent, too. I am an engineer, though domestic activities are limited to...well, I've already stated it's none of anyone's business...what the detergent does is two fold - 1. through the nature of the covalant bonding, contaminants are suspended in solution so they aren't deposited here and there in the low flow areas of the coolant (and, in the sink, they go down the drain with the water) 2. the pH... MORE
Please don't put dishwashing liquids in your radiator!!! These things can cause foam, and may destroy the water pump and could cause massive overheating. The "water-wetter" type additives use special wetters which do not foam. I once did a test of "Watter-Wetter" in which I outfitted my car with thermometers in the airstream ahead of and behind the radiator, and surface mounted thermometers on the top and bottom rad tanks. I found no differences in engine temp or cooling capacity with "Water- Wetter" against plain water. For summer cooling, use plain water (distilled if your local water is hard)... MORE
Jim... It's dishwashing liquid which can be substituted for Water Wetter however, domestic chores bore me so I don't know the difference between soap and dishwashing liquid, ass-u-me(ing) there is/are differences? Is there a domestic engineer in the audience? Perchance one of the fair sex ? :) Cap'n Bob '60 :{) "Robert E. Shlafer" 37116... MORE
I'm a little concerned about recommending dish soap, since soap actually creates surface tension - it's surface tension that allows bubbles to form in a soap solution. Of course, your block will be squeeky clean!!! I enjoyed reading this: http://www.spriteparts.com.au/radiatorfluid.htm (Thanks Colin! - great site) It makes very good sense to me. Based on this info and a little more research I would recommend distilled (or demineralized) water with a corrosion inhibiting compound and, if necessary for the area in which you live, just enough anti-freeze to prevent freezing - remember, you do not need anti-freeze when the engine... MORE
Hi, Over here in the UK I tend to leave the anti-freeze in, as it is also a summer coolant. If a heavy winter is expected, I increase the ratio of anti-freeze to water. As for the clunking sounds from the rear, I had this sort of noise from my Mk3 Midget. It turned out to be the diff. Sometimes filling it up with the appropriate oil/grease, the noise goes away for a bit. But eventually the diff. will need either a rebuild or be replaced, usually with a reconditioned one, as new ones tend to be rather expensive,... MORE
