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Just my two pence worth on the hard top thing. I agree with all the above comments. In addition, I like the way they look on a Bugeye, rather cute, and it does keep the rain out of the car when parked much better than a toneua cover or soft top. When chilly, you can drive with the heater on and almost keep warm, better than the soft top and I think it is quieter than my soft top. Mine has a thin foam "headliner" in it that helps with sound. But as soon as the weather starts to... MORE
When soldering new spade terminals and the like onto the end of old wires, the copper wire always seems to be black. I take this to be oxidisation and try to remove as much as possible before soldering. Using a resin cored solder the flux does not seem to clean the wire effect ively. crimping surely just traps the oxidisation between terminal and the copper, so not an effective joint. Scotchloks are not an option IMO. Any thoughts / recommendations? What is the cause of this blackening of th e wires? Is it due to a bad earth (ground)... MORE
when you turn on the ignition. tach, fuel pump, wipers, brake stop light, reversing lights, heater fan..... The fault must be on the "downstream" side of the fuse for it to blow, so it is likely to be one of those, or the wiring to them. Some of these are switchable: lights, wipers, fan etc so if they are switched off when the fuse blows then it may be one of the non- switched items although it could still be a damaged wire between fuse block and switch. Guy "Guy Weller" 28195... MORE
Ok, thanks everyone for your input, - all taken on board. - The general consensus seems to be mixed, but slightly favouring the lever-arms if they are rebuilt to a better-than-original spec. And nobody seems to have used Moss's telescopic kit, just the Frontline one which is also worth knowing. My initial concern had been based on two things: 1. From word of mouth from other car folk that had bought 'uprated' lever arms in the 70's that had then leaked after a year or so, and even recently someone told me about a recently refurbished one leaking after... MORE
Ok, thanks everyone for your input, - all taken on board. - The general consensus seems to be mixed, but slightly favouring the lever-arms if they are rebuilt to a better-than-original spec. And nobody seems to have used the Moss telescopic kit, just the Frontline one which is also worth knowing. My initial concern had been based on two things: 1. From word of mouth from other car folk that had bought 'uprated' lever arms in the 70's that then leaked after a year or so, and even recently someone told me about a recently refurbished one leaking after... MORE
M. The telescopic conversions, and I am speaking from what I've read on this list and others, don't really seem to be worth the money in my opinion. If it's already been done, some say it's great, but most seem to think it's only great in comparison to a worn out stock system. If the stock is refurbished to original (or better) condition, it will perform as well or better than any telescopic conversion. Peter Caldwell, of the spridgets autox list, sells a great remanufactured shock at a reasonable price. He is in the US, and shipping may be... MORE
Hi Bill, What sort of state/ age are the flexible rubber hoses? Perhaps they have swollen and collapsed internally. The pressure bleeder I use takes its air supply from an inflated tyre so operates at about 30psi. I guess you could increase pressure without any worries. Guy "Guy Weller" 28118... MORE
Good lord this is a cold natured 8itchy car until she gets warm. I was finally able to take her to the mechanic today for the cracked slave cylinder boot. It's 30 degrees in Memphis, TN which doesn't make me happy because she has no top on. I bundle up, go out and crank her up. I'm sure she was cussing me because every once in a while I could almost understand a few words coming out of the engine compartment and certainly a few from the exhaust. I forgive her considering how cold it is and that I'd... MORE
Subject: Re: Bugeye Group..... Re: The Originality Wars...another take A very interesting spin on the subject. It seems to put it more into perspective for me. I am not restoring a Bugatti here. And I have no interest in restoring a 1959 tract house (that sold for $15,000 new) back to its original condition with galvanized water pipes and a floor furnace. I like air conditioning, a modern kitchen, disk brakes, 5 speed, going faster etc. As well, I like the neighborhood, and the people who live around me, and the other people who drive LBC's and besides, they... MORE
I would think that a rebuild would be in order. I soaked mine in degreaser and rinsed with water. Then I bead blasted them and proceeded with the rebuild. Just be careful not to scratch up the piston and walls. They now have the familiar aluminum oxidation coat covering them again, but I am contemplating buffing them and clear coating. I know that they will still turn grey, but I think it might help prevent grease stains. "Trevor Jessie" 27990... MORE
Hi, Guy and David, There are varying degrees of symmetry and our engines are not symmetrical vertically. I also no mathematician, but I am an engineer! The simplest way I can describe it is to say that:- when the crank is at 90 degrees from TDC, the pistons are not half way down the bore! At this point in a 1275 motor the piston is at 57% of its stroke. Hence when the crank is in this position all 4 pistons are at 57% stroke. Compare this when the crank is at TDC or BDC, you will have 0%... MORE
Many thanks for the replies. Yes, I realise that the system is the sum of its many parts. And I should have thought it through a little more as I am planning to fit an MGMetro head and camshaft. Now I'm thinking I need to fit the water heated inlet manifold also. So the question changes a little. How much hassle is it to fit an LCB in a midget. (In a mini we had to attack the bulkhead (firewall) with an 'ammer to create space) Is it possible to retain the metro inlet manifold , do I need... MORE
Mr Zappa, You should have a Zenith cd150 carb installed on your car if it is stll as originally equipped. These carbs have been trouble since the day they were installed new and only get worse as time goes on. As for the fuel leak. Look real close at the rubber hose where it attatchs to the carb body. Small hairline cracks frequently are found causing fuel to weep. Have someone crank it over and you watch right here for where the leak appears. Another possibilty is the auto choke (if installed) can be a pain in the a$$.... MORE
In a 4 cylinder engine, two of the pistons are rising while the other two are falling so the net volume change in the crankcase should always be zero but it does suck in air when everything's off and cooling down. David "David Jacobs" 27896... MORE
BECKERS states (in part).. "....it lowers fuel octane anyway" Yeah, this is true and a tough one to call (except in a high compression motor or when higher octanes are available at reasonable cost) against crankcase evacuation of vapors/pressures with respect to oil being forced passed seals or out the rear scroll "seal". But it's basically why I run "vented" instead of "evacuated", the thought of introducing oil (in any amount) into the combustion process "going against the grain" personally, though there are cases (Judson and to a lesser extent, Shorrocks applications) where this comes with the territory so... MORE
Paul.... Assuming you are using the normal intake manifold mounted stock PCV valve, most likely the rubber diaphragm is "weak"....we all know what happens to rubber exposed to ozone (air) either sitting on a shelf in a parts wharehouse or mounted on an engine which has sat for a long period of time. The high idle along with intermitten excessive "smoking" is almost a dead giveaway. Check that hose between the flame arrester and the PCV valve as well. Rubber develops "hairline" cracks with age. Like most rubber, it lasts longer when used (not abused) while exposed to whatever... MORE
Thanks to all the "start-up" advice, the initial run-in went without a hitch. But a strange problem cropped up. Engine is a fresh high compression 1275 with PCV only. It would run very well for the first few minutes, and then start to belch smoke the likes of which few could imagine. It would do this for a couple minutes, then run normal again. Also, I could not get it to idle below 1200 rpm despite the fact that the carbs were fresh and were properly set up. With throttles CLOSED it still idled at about 1200. After doing... MORE
Bob, Damn good idea. I can see some logic in this. Now lets see, with my hot pot in the coffee room that should take about.....10 trips? Merry Christmas Bob "Rex Urban" 27857... MORE
Rex, Old Hot Rodder trick. Pack the oil pump with Vaseline. Lots nicer to work with and does the trick quite nicely. Used it on my first start. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 27848... MORE
Rex, On my race engines, and street engines for that matter, on the first start up, I take several pans of boiling water and fill the radiator and cooling system. It brings the block up to about 150 degrees or so. I have been told by some old drag racing engine builders that 90% of the wear and damage of a first start up is because of the cold parts, with minimum lube, under pressure are rubbing and scraping. Having a hot engine, and up to oil pressure from the first start does wonders for engine life. Oil flows... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
I see that when my Ebay 'spoof' mail arrived at midgetsprite , the actual E bay message complete with a link and asking for information was missing. Bu t you got the hidden message- strange. !!! I forwarded it to Spoof@ebay then received a VERY,VERY Extremely long stand ard reply. Despite the warnings contained in the Ebay email - all seems to be working OK. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Samuel, IMO the time to do your head is when it's wet and cold , can be done indoor s , try the using kitchen !!!!!!!. Then refit it before the sun comes out so you can be driving. I'm assuming you will be grinding in the valves , I didn't realise the old engines were fitted with valve stem seals, I thought that was a more modern innovation. (or are they fitted to 1500s - I only 'know' A series) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
Samuel, The roads down South East are busy and full of morons. However up in Yorksh ire you will find there are lots of empty roads just great for spridget dri ving. Same for the rest of the country really , cities like Birmingham and Manchester and the immediate hinterland are busy , but that's the same in t he 'States. Same for our Motorways your Interstates / turnpikes. Except for the M25 around London you will easily keep up with the flow of traffic there , just don't forget to pay for your Pay and Display parking t... MORE
yes, it's not too difficult a job; it's even possible to do the valve stem seals (is that what you mean?) with the head still on, though paradoxically it's probably trickier to do that way. There are no particular pitfalls I can think of, just make sure the engine's cold before you loosen anything, get a workshop manual for torqueing the nuts up in the right order, oh, and don't forget to refit the little bypass hose between the head and water pump *before* you screw the head down. Regards David "David Jacobs" 27776... MORE
