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Well folks... As of tonight, the B-GT (67) is nearly ready for the first road test. I need to get a tire tube replaced and check the differential fluid before I drop it onto the ground and try for a short drive. The new parts I needed to order were... Clutch slave cylinder Clutch Slave Hose (2) Break Hoses Misc Spare nuts and bolts Gas Tank Repair stuff Trans Mounts (rubber) Engine Mounts New Clutch system (disk, plate and through-out) Tire Tube Thermostate gasket (not installed yet - extra) Falve Cover gasket A few extra rubber pieces. The hardest... MORE
The phone rang at 7:30 am Sunday morning "I'm stranded in Angles Camp, Jr. died," Jr. the name he gave the 63 Midget I sold him. "I just need a around town car." He said when he bought it. He had owned a Midget before and I was confidant I was not selling to an innocent in the ways of classic British cars. I had made clear that since I retrieved it from a carpentry work shop where it sat on blocks for twenty years and brought it back to life that I had not driven it over five... MORE
Hmmm... I could disguise a headset as a pair of earmuffs, of course...look pretty funny in summer, though. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23866... MORE
Alan It seems you're following in my footsteps or viceversa, having done/doing this exact same job myself. Perhaps you can benefit from my experience. First off, forget using any kind of power tool on the underseal its a waste of time. The technique that I found works reasonably well on removing the underseal is as follows, I'm afraid however you tackle this job, it's not pleasant, will take ages is boring and messy as hell. I found using a heat gun and scraper worked really well getting off the bulk of the underseal. Just heat it up enough for... MORE
G'day guys Just thought I would add my thoughts on the over/under heating problem. My race car has a radiator I had made about 7 years ago. 3 cores and it's so thick it has cut-outs to clear the steering rack mounts! On a 100 F day, I can't get it to heat up. I warm it to around 180 F in the pits, go out for a 10 lap race and come in at 170 F. I was recently asked by a customer to make a copy of the radiator for his car, so with 7 years now... MORE
Michael, The old bounce test is a pretty reliable indicator of shock function. Push the nose of the car down several times and if it rebounds more than one and a half times shocks probably need attention. Topping off the fronts is fairly straight forward. Remove the valve and add. I switched to tube front shocks as mine originals were shot and didn't respond to additional fluid. I/m very satisfied with the new set up. Set me back about $300 from Winners Circle in Cleveland. To my embarrassment I have never touched the rear shocks. They seem to be... MORE
I've got a '79 midget. It seems to ride a little rough. I was thinking that maybe the shocks need some fluid. So, I have a few questions: 1. Is there a quick & dirty test a guy can do that might indicate whether more fluid is needed or not? 2. Is it easy for a shade tree kind of guy with limited tools to add fluid to the shocks? 3. What about conversion to tube shock kits? Any feelings? One more question. My dash is split right at the windscreen support bracket. I am going to order a... MORE
Yes, this is what Jean Cook (Kimber's daughter) says about the MG origins; however (according to my other half who knows about these things) the first few ERFs had "E. R. Foden" in brass across the radiator.See "Daffodil 1", the 2nd ERF built, owned from new by F R Somerset of Chapel-en-le-Frith Regards David PS the ER is for Edwin Richard "David Jacobs" 23712... MORE
I need radiator, exaust manifold, carburator. Please e-mail me if you know who may have these parts. ooohaynow1@... "ooohaynow1" 23709... MORE
The clutch problem sounds like you're losing pressure in the hydraulic system, try bleeding the system/replacing clutch fluid/checking Master/slave clutch cylinders are working correctly. The indicator lamp not flashing sounds either like a poor ground connection from flasher unit or faulty flasher unit - both fairly easy to fix. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23701... MORE
Toyman sounds correct, but you may get by with only topping off the fluid for now. Be aware however, that the fluid does not evaporate and you will in the perhaps near future need a master cylinder and/or slave cylinder at least rebuilt or replaced. Been there, doing that now. Robert Houston Transervicios S.A. de C.V. 915-592-2082 rbhouston@... 23699... MORE
Well, sounds like I should go with the recore option. I ordered a rad from BPC, and it cost me $170 delivered. However, it is for the '75. The difference between the '75 and '76 and up models lies in the facts that the later model rad is about 2" wider, and the spill tank connection is larger. Therefore, it is assumed that cooling capacity is better in the later model rad, and I don't want to take the chance of trying to place the '75 rad in the car. Still trying to figure why the late model rads... MORE
Had to get a new rad for my '75 a couple of years ago. A saga in itself. Cost me $135 at a local shop (wholesale) retail should be around $150-175. The '75 radiator should fit '76 and on. Rob C '75 Midget 00 Trans Am robbiesg@... 23643... MORE
Very rare bonnet built from 1961-1964 in Southern California one of only three known to be left, completely restored, all cracks fixed, new gel coat and painted red. This will fit all Sprites/Midgets (MKII+) with mods, or tilt forward replacement for bugeye. This bonnet was used for racing (have documents)and also comes with custom fabracated alum ducts for radiator and oil cooler. E-mail me for photos or check out my photos in the gallary. $1200.00 with documents including a signed letter from Sir Thomas Denner Contact: Mike Satterfield Email: michaelsatterfield@ hot mail.com Tel: 909-947-8099 Location: Ontario (Southern California) California... MORE
I'm in the hunt for a radiator for a late model midget 1500. VB and Moss carry rads for '75 only, and for some reason, rads for '76 on are not available. If someone could explain the reason for this, please do! Also, if you happen to have one and willing to sell, please let me know. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pete GAN6UJ206727 '78 midget "Pete Skalski" 23608... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
Rick... Gerard is of course, correct, unless you are choosing between running a mechanical or electrical "puller", in place of the mechanical? Mechanical fans are mounted as close to the radiator as possible for maximum flow effect. And if you do decide to "replace" the mechanical rather than "supplement" it with a "pusher", you might as well order a larger 4.5" (Cooper S) water pump pulley and install same while you are "in there". And maybe even replace the old cast iron water pump with a "county" deep-impeller alum. one...without a water "bypass" for even better cooling in summer... MORE
Dear Listers, I hope someone out there can point me in the right direction. Just finished ( to the point where it should run well) my '75 Midget. I have a recurring problem with stumbling and power loss during higher speed cruising, above 40 mph. The spluttering is usually accompanied by a 5 dg. or so rise in coolant temp. If I back off, the car will smooth out again and run OK if I don't push it. The magic number seems to be 50 mph. If I cruise lower than that I usually don't have problems. At 50... MORE
I have a new Kenlowe kit, built to go in front of the radiator in my 71 crossflow 1275 Midget, but I'm interested in fitting the electric fan off a 89 Civic Si behind the rad if there's room. With my engine out, I can't measure the gap. The Honda unit looks far more robust an air mover, but will need a minimum or 4 and a half inches - 5'd be better. Could one of you boys 'n girls go measure? Sure would appreciate it. It's 86 degrees in my shop today - could be worse, eh? Thanks... MORE
Mark Don't do it the gauge is easy to remove the dash is not. Just undo the knurled nut at the back of the clamp and pop it out, the oil pipe union can be unscrewed from the engine or the back of the gauge (once popped out) the water temperature sender connection if it is into the rad (as mine is on the 66) can be a bit of a pig to remove without damaging the sender cable but if you are renewing the gauge this will not matter. Best of luck Dave (65 & 66 Sprites in... MORE
Kim said, .You're too kind Alan! I have another collector's car, a Mini and that will be time-consuming enough. I say minis are great little cars, I've had plenty of them, but to work on and for summer / occasional driving the 'older' midget sure beats them. Minis are fine to work on if you have 2 foot long legs, a five foot long back and three arms - four foot long and no more than 2 inch diameter !!! Keep the midget and ditch the mini I say, !!! Alan "alan.east-jones" 23389... MORE
Yes, Electric Fan well worth doing (IMHO). Mine is actually a mk2 Sprite but I have a Kenlowe fitted as a puller (i.e. inside the engine bay pulling air in through the rad) and the engine fan removed. I actually ignored the Kenlowe fitting kit which is a one size fits none Heath Robinson affair. I slung the fan on some brackets attached to the shroud. It's been like that for several years 20k miles and seems fine. Ava would have a different rad. of course but still possible I expect. It's a great mod beacuse it's win-win. The... MORE
Roger Stinson writes in part.."So Cap'n Bob does have an advantage...." Well...let's just say any LH body lean on my BE was caused by the PO's. (down to my summer fighting weight of 130 US pounds!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23374... MORE
just purchased a 68 midget. the water/oil gauge does not work and want to repair or replace it. In doing so, I wanted to remove the dash to give me easier access to the faulty gauge but cant find how the top of the dash is attached to the car. service manuals talk about four screws along the top of the dash but haven't found them. any suggestions on how to approach this? "MARK " 23355... MORE
You do not have to remove the dash to get the gauge out. Reach under the dash, remove the bracket holding the gauge in place, pull the gauge out of the dash just enough to remove the oil line, remove the cap. tube from the radiator, then pull the system out via the hole in the dash. Replace in the opposite manner. Zegrod53@... 23356... MORE
