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David, You wrote that the switch itself, the plastic switch, is leaking. Hate to tell you, but it should not have any brake fluid getting to it and it is not designed to hold brake fluid. Those seals should prevent fluid from getting to the switch. If the switch is leaking, the seals aren't working. Get the right parts, for safety's sake. It's ONLY brakes. Peter C. "Peter C." 33471... MORE
"signal indicators.....LOUD audio reminder"?? What we really have here, is a "situational awareness" problem!! :):) Including this in your "cockpit scan" as you drive about the premisi is just part of normal piloting, Chris. It's like checking oil pressure, coolant temperature, rpm, "groundspeed", etc. from time to time, as you drive along. It's "multi-tasking" so to speak, though your attention is primarily directed toward what's happeing outside the window around you. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33466... MORE
Hi David, This is the type of rubber in o-rings needed for brake fluid applications: Ethylen propylene rubber (EPDM) Likely what you got was a butyl type. That won't resist brake fluid. Try going to a place that does air/oil cylinder servicing or an o-ring house. They're in big cities. Try the yellow pages. Might be a minimum sale problem or they may give it to you to get rid of you!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33455... MORE
Hi David, Likely that o-ring won't survive brake fluid. Most likely it will swell and get soft and fail. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33452... MORE
For all you furiners (not Texicans), this should make you wish you were here.... A TEXAS BLESSING Bless this house, oh Lord, we cry. Please keep it cool in mid-July. Bless the walls where termites dine, while ants and roaches march in time. Bless our yard where spiders pass fire ant castles in the grass. Bless the garage, a home to please carpenter beetles, ticks and fleas. Bless the love bugs, two by two, the gnats and mosquitoes that feed on you. Millions of creatures that fly or crawl, in Texas, Lord, you've put them all!! But this is... MORE
Chris... There ARE disadvantages to "in trunk" mounting, no doubt about it. In both my past and current positions I have been trained to think worst case scenarios first and foremost. And I would not personally install a pump on the "inside" myself, for in event of accident, I personally would rather have it ALL "outside" the car, whether I had a "g" cutoff switch intalled or not. However....under normal circumstances, we are not talking the pressures of fuel injection. Leakage of any sort should be detected very quickly considering only pressboard separates the trunk from the cockpit and... MORE
Subject: Re: ? on Master Cyl piston The black coating is indeed black oxide. It is not any form of paint. We call it Chemical blacking. (or kemmy blacking - in conversation) Can be done as a Hot or Cold process. - hot is better for durability. First done on gun barrels I believe. You can buy the cold process as a kit. It only protects against surface rust when oiled, but it does help prevent deep rusting. it does provide a harder durable surface. It is also used to make steel items look pretty !! Try not to... MORE
Esteemed Listers, Although of late I have been lurking, I am out of my hole and asking a rather silly (stupid? moronic?) question. Which way does one turn a mixture control nut on an SU to enrich the mixture? I am having my first go-'round with these exotic carbs and getting anything other than garbage out of the motor has been beyond me thus far. The mixture question would help. Yes, I've read the books but I am either illiterate or am just dense. Rob C-75 midget running out of summer. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@...... MORE
Fellas! I just have to tell you this, its probably old news to most of you but anyway. As you know i have been having problems lately (yet again), the symtoms were many and hard to make out. Well today the ba***rd fouled again and wouldnt run properly just like it was running on only 3 cyl. We are now 110% certain that its the petrol causing it. What happens is when the engine has reached normal temprature and i stop (with engine running) or drive very slowly the temp rise very fast (15-20F) and the engine starts fouling.... MORE
Aha! now I see the reason for the subject line! At least you won't have to worry about your feet getting cold! Seriously though, does it really need to go in so far back? If the pulley sits almost up to the steering rack like the original one, you should have a load more space to play with. Regards David "David Jacobs" 33307... MORE
Boy, I'd hate to do a wet boil point test on that fluid!!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33317... MORE
David - No, the engine isn't in the correct/final placement just yet, just got excited and had to show somebody. I was thinking I was going to have to cut a radiused notch in top of the crossmember, but playing around last night I have it a little closer to finalized, I raised the motor about 1" and brought it forward (about 5-1/2") so the pulley is about 1/2" back from the steering rack. I plan to modify the oil pan to a flattened roadracing type, so the pan can be tucked up into the chassis. Hope to do... MORE
Hi Mike, Just as new cars have a maintenence schedule of changing the brake fluid every 2 years or 25,000 miles, you should do the same thing. Brake fluid becomes pretty corrosive in a short period of time if it's not changed routinely. So just do that and there likely won't be any corrosion on the naked internals. Ask an owner of a new car what it costs to replace an ABS module that has corroded because of not changing the brake fluid at the proper intervals. Warranty won't pay. OUCH! Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33304... MORE
Hi Mike, I suspect that getting it anodized would be more than it's worth. Likely you can use it as is or just buy a rebuilt unit. The Morris m/cyls I do a lot with don't have that anodizing, but seem to have some sort of bright plating that seems to never give up! BTW, brake fluid is a pretty fair paint remover! A bit messy, but works on a lot of paints. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33302... MORE
Hi In the process of rebuilding a tandem (dual) MC from early Sprite. Noticed that the pistons in these were painted/coated in black. It is wearing away on mine, some of it is fine while some is gone. I was just going to steel wool polish them smooth. What were these painted with? something not affected by hydraulic fluid. Should I just bring them down to bare metal and forget about it? Have alot of time and $$ in this with resleeve so I want to do the right thing. Mike mk2sprite@... 33286... MORE
I joined this group because I just got a 1977 Midget that to my supprise started after sitting in a pasture for 6 years. I fitted new tires and filled up the brake and clutch with fluid and I am on the road. There are a few pieces missing though...Like tail lights, mirrors, headlight bezels, air filter, and wiper switch. There are some of these items on ebay but the are for a 1977 MGB. What is the difference between an MGB and a Midget? Are many parts interchangeable? Thanks in advance, Cole "Cole Warren" 33277... MORE
Cool, Jens.... Methinks you're either the victim of overadvanced ign. or intake leaks.... maybe both? Gettin' way too hot in there which is not in your pocket's best interests! Talk later, mate. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33260... MORE
Coil should get warm, but not too hot to touch. If it is getting that hot it may be that as it heats up the insulation breaks down and the spark is failing. This would cause the misfire. Maybe you have 2 unrelated faults? Mixture and spark? Excuse me stating the obvious, but I always have to think hard about which way to screw the jet to richen or weaken the mixture. Lower the jet for richer isn't it - so its clock-wise as you look down at the carb. Guy "Guy Weller" 33255... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Jens... What color are the plugs after you pull them out after a hard run? They should be chocolate brown (insulators) with the shell tinged carbon (dry) black, assuming "correct" timing, mixture and cooling system in reasonably good shape, etc. And what compression ratio are you running, BTW? On what octane #? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33252... MORE
brought the frogeye back to life tonight. First time it has started in the last year or so, but for the last 4 years it has only really run once a year to move to a new resting place. However this time it was a bit reluctant to start, and I found no spark so ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the +ve terminal of the coil and it fired up easily then. Interestingly when attempting to rev the engine it really did not want to know, and coughed and spluttered instead, this got better when... MORE
Nige et al I used the same method for removing the 'frozen' piston in the brake calipers. Method clamp the the piston in the caliper half where the banjo fits. Wrap the caliper in a rag with some plced where the disc would be. Cut the rubber hose and apply airline. First mistake using workshop pressure at 6 bar (80psi) the resulting BANG brought all the technicians out of the test cells to see what the h*ll was going on (or off as the case may be). Use reducesd airline pressue for other calipers. The remaining piston can be... MORE
fluid is safer than compressed air, as it is not compressible, so when the piston does pop out, the liquid doesn't expand, unlike a gas. Pressure vessels are tested for leaks this way. David "David Jacobs" 33066... MORE
G'day Nigel et al As much as I agree with Bob (get a new one) I understand your penchant for originality and budget repairs. So here is an (almost) fail-safe method for freeing seized hydraulic components. (No, Nigel, I'm not being a smart-ass - we all have times where we just have to repair the used bit in front of us.) Take the part in question, let's say it's a clutch slave cylinder, remove all pipes and hoses, clean all the rust and debris out of the cylinder in front of the piston. You need to make it as... MORE
Hi Paul Welcome to the list, and nice website! I'm restoring a 71 SWA Midget and just at the fitting up stage, you can see my pics in the Nigels-71-Midget folder on the site. Your front shroud looks a bit odd - is that a 1500 shroud? What are those two depressions in it? I remember the 1500 BL part looking a bit like that. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33034... MORE
