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Rick The answers to these questions are as long as they are short! I can tell you what I did, but I'm not sure it will help you in your situation. I stripped all my interior paint back to bare metal using Nitromors paint stripper, washed it down with water, dried it, cleaned it all with a wire brush zip wheel in an angle grinder, sprayed it with etch primer, high build primer filler and finally top coat. I removed the carpet glue and (one of the worst jobs of the lot) the underseal/bitumen panels on the trans tunnel... MORE
Jens... OK...you got part of the oil pressure problem but I too wonder how "secure" (air tight) that junction/line to the oil pressure gauge is in view of that loose coupling. Whatever... indicated pressure to the extent of anything under 55-60psi "hot" @ 3,000rpm is below mfg's tolerance, as is anything under 10psi "hot" at idle. And, most especially with 20/50 weight mineral oil. Keep at it, man..you're gettin' there! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32136... MORE
Jens, Maybe..... Condensation is collecting in your silencer (muffler). Only when you have run the engine for a little while does this warm up enough for the condensed water to evaporate and produce the white cloud. Still possible that it is originating from a fault with the head gasket, allowing water to leak through into the cylinders, but not causing an obvious leak to the outside or mixing of oil and water. Have you tried a compression test? Guy "Guy Weller" 32108... MORE
"tribilogist"??? Jeeze Alan, talk English for chrissake!! :):) I use fully synthetic "Oil Extreme" in my 1293 which used Valvoline 10/40 min. oil on initial break-in. No difference in water vapor upon initial start. Engines with cats produce very hot exhaust gases...what temp do cats operate at? Hot enough so you must be cautious when parking them over grassy areas? Really hot!! Otherwise, how are you this morning? (Err, you're mid-afternoon!:). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32112... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
There is another possibility - do you have a brake servo fitted? With some types, if this is faulty, it's possible to suck brake fluid into the inlet manifold - I think that can burn grey/white. David "David Jacobs" 32096... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
Paul I saw your note on brake assembly lube. Which do you reccomend and why is it necessary? I had always been taught to use virgin brake fluid when working on M/C's and such. Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 32030... MORE
Hang on. This is a daily used car. 30,000miles in 3 years since full rebuild ALL new brake parts at that time Regular maintenance - like every 2 weeks I grease the kingpins, top up dashpots etc.etc. Using silicon brake fluid and flush and replace that every year - although its due another change about now. I do a 80 mile daily round trip to work, in fast, heavy traffic conditions. My life depends on this car being in good condition. I started this "thread" to see what other experience might be out there. I don't actually think that... MORE
Hi Guy, Using silicon brake fluid!! Silicon has a higher swell factor on the rubber parts than does conventional brake fluid. This simply exacerbates an already stiff acting caliper. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32024... MORE
"Surely they should last....." Depends upon use over time. As we know, when they sit (especially "unprotected"), certain items not only continue to wear, they wear at an accelerated rate due to lack of lubrication along with "water within" (condensation, etc.). My car sat outside (but under a cover) a good part of last winter which in these parts, was uncharacteristically very cold. But the vehicle was started, thoroughly warmed and "moved" (shocks, brakes, etc.) at least once a week. Also, the exhaust outlet was kept covered while the car "sat". First thing we did before taking it out... MORE
Hi Guy, I suspect that you have some calipers that are ready for a rebuild. These pistons don't retract as the new cars do, but merely relax. If the dust seals are stiff and totally dried out it will inhibit the relaxing of the pads from the rotors. I rebuild a lot of these calipers and sometimes it's almost impossible to get out the pistons because there's 40 years of crud and dried up rubber involved. Another possibility on the calipers is the m/cyl is holding too much pressure on the system with it's internal residual valve. A suggestion... MORE
Some of you may remember a mail i wrote a few days agoo were i told you my float bowls went almost empty. Well i think i have found the cause of this problem as well. I changed the petrol line from the tank yesterday and when removing the old one that had a joint before the pump (mechanical) with a short piece of rubber tubing the hose clip on one end was loose and the actual rubber tubing was loose as well. I could just pull it off by hand easily. I recon the pump must have sucked... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Sorry guys - couldn't help myself! avagoodday Colin Follow these 15 simple tests before you decide to have children. . ..or if you already have them I'm sure it'll will bring back fond memories! Test 1 Women: To prepare for maternity, put on a dressing gown and stick a beanbag down the front. Leave it there for 9 months. After 9 months remove 10% of the beans. Men: To prepare for paternity, go to local chemist, tip the contents of your wallet onto the counter and tell the pharmacist to help himself. Then go to the supermarket. Arrange to... MORE
Curt, The easiest thing to do as process of elimination, is to install another dizzy with the stock ignition and see what happens. It's nornal for coils to get warm, even hot. Gerard "gerardchateau" 31800... MORE
I found the source of the wisp of smoke from the starter area to be that the 3 wire connector between the distributer and ignition module (Howard Assoc. of Costa Mesa Ca.) was sometimes shorting against the +12 Volts to the starter (neg. earth set up). It's no longer in a position to short, But I still loose ignition after I start to crank. Think I cooked the ignition box? If so, what would be the hot choice to replace it? Supose a new Lucas sport coil would be a good idea while I'm at it? Cheers, Curt "cfisher1a"... MORE
Hi guys, Very happy to report I now have a good clue to the hard/no start problem on my full race 948 set up. Noticed that after a few seconds of cranking and some coughs while the motor nearly started, the ignition light went out. Pulled a plug and sure enough, Nice spark for a few seconds of cranking, then the ignition light goes out and nothing. on subsequent tried the light goes out immediatly when cranking and no spark at all. After cooling for a while I get the light and spark for a few seconds again. The... MORE
Hi all, What a day today was!! 120plus miles in bright Cornish sunshine! Cannot wait untill tomorrow! She is running like a dream carbs are a bit lean but gogin to sort that out tomorrow!! I really do Love these little cars! I filled her up with optimax she seems to be running well One problem is that the ignition light is glowing (only very slightly) when i am gogin slowly!! fan belt seems not to be slipping! alternator on the way out maybe?? Anyone got any other ideas? Cheers Ben Lawlor 31648... MORE
my 79 1500 was smelling like gas badly. Noticed the water controlled choke was basicaly hanging by one screw. So, like a fool, I disasembled the choke while I was in there, just to see if everything was ok. Now the stupid part: I'm not sure if I lost it, or if it was never there, but there's no heat mass. Now my question is, it's nice and warm here in NH now, being spring and all; Do I even need a choke, or can I just seal off the holes in the carb? and how hard is it... MORE
Hi all, just ordered the rubber hose kit and 13 row cooler! Problem is Moss are waiting for a delevery of them to arrive! No problem i bought a SU carb tuning book aswell!! :) Cheers all Ben Ben Lawlor 31589... MORE
I guess what I will do, until I can find a goo dused one, is to just bypass the valve. I will plug the hose going from the valve to the heater, and use s fitting to connect to hose from the engine to the carburator thermostat(?). That way the system shoudl work just as if the heater valve was closed. I think... "Michael" 31581... MORE
"...seal it off completely..." This will detract from the engine's ability to cool itself uniformly. Better to come up with a fitting which will allow flow from rear of engine back to water pump via "normal" means and leave the heater out of the equation altogether. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31588... MORE
