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Trevor- Your "random" thoughts are really good. YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You got me to thinking about the oil filter bracket on the side of the motor. I used new bolts. I pulled the bracket off this morning and the VERY TIP of one bolt showed contact. I knew immediately I had found it. So your thought about "oil" together with the other guys that kept telling me it was a "too big bolt in too small hole" issue solved it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!! Now the final problem. The bolt that showed the hit was the rearmost bolt. If you remember,... MORE
Hi Bob- Good ideas. I have carefully marked the crank pulley and can tell you that when I push it forward, it stops at exactly the same point each time. When I push it back, it stops at exactly the same point. These two points are about 15 degrees apart on the crank pulley. It does not "tighten up" as you approach the stopping points. Engine turns and then stops. Period. I am going to watch each cylinder and valve assembly closely before I tear into anything. I will watch closely for the TDC issue as you have outlined.... MORE
Don- Your point is well taken. Just to eliminate the possibility, I will go ahead and get the clutch working. Everything is rebiult or new, with stainless sleeving. Just a matter of adding fluid and bleeding. I will do so. Starter is installed. If it is a problem, how could I get 345 degrees out of the crank? But you are correct. It is installed. Think it should go on the removal list? Thanks for your help. Paul "dfwip" 27723... MORE
Hi Alan- That's what has me really confused. I am NOT sure it is stopping mechanically. Years ago I had a problem like this with one of my race motors, and it was found to be a ring of rust. This time, since I could not detect any "mechanical" stop and the valve train looked fine, I had my boys push a little harder, several times. They ended up skidding the car about a foot. It ain't budging. Got any suggestion as to how I can free up the initial tick-over? One other note. I carefully marked the crankshaft... MORE
"Sounds like you put a long bolt where a short one should go" Boy...this just lit up a bulb. There are two short screws behind the crankshaft timing chain pulley on the front face of the block. If one of thesse screws is a tad too long or is not fully home into the block, it will foul the crankshaft pulley. This may or may not be the source of the problem but just remembered this so thought I would "put it out there" for consideration. Hope you find the culprit, hope it's something simple and easily fixed, and... MORE
Don- As best as I could, I tried to eliminate the tranny in my testing. I put the car in neutral and could roll it all over the garage. I then left it in neutral and turned the engine by hand via the fan pulley. The crank turned the same amount as when in gear. Am I correct that this rules out internal tranny issues? Is there anything I could have done when bolting the tranny to the engine? For what it is worth, as I roll the car it sure FEELS like the problem is in the engine.... MORE
Nigel I will strip and examine the probably get a local rebore shop to do the cra nk and block if required. Rebuilding and head reprofiling I'll probably do myself. I will probably get hardened inserts put in also. Some machining I can probably get done if required by my sub contractor machine shop. I got a bit interested in the bore Vs stroke for 1340cc . I might look into that also. I got machined and rebuilt modified mini and MGBGT engines in the past (bef ore the kids started growing up) but have really only been doing... MORE
Paul, I have been reading this thread with interest. A lot of interesting ideas. Let me think a moment and apply my simple Polish logic. Before you go into motor....... you have marked crank pulley and it always stops in the same place. If you back it up, it stops a few degrees from the same place always? right? Then take it until it stops and check into plug holes and find if any pistons are at or very near TDC. If they are, there could be something in the cylinder that is hitting the piston. If non of... MORE
"No hydro fluid for clutch" . . . so the clutch is not disengaged and the transmission is not disconnected from the engine during your attempts to turn over the engine. You may still be in a possible situation where the fault could be the transmission locking up while in gear but not in neutral. Don "Don May" 27707... MORE
"And water always flows out the drain in a clockwise direction....?" actually, it's supposed to be anti clockwise and then only in the northern hemisphere, but it is a fallacy - water rushing down a drain flows at speeds on the order of a meter per second in most sinks, which are themselves less than a meter wide. Qualitatively, there doesn't seem to be much chance for deflection. Quantitatively, putting these numbers into the equation for the Coriolis force F = -2 m (w x vr) results in an estimated change in rotation of only a fraction of a... MORE
Then how come we don't drive backwards? 8^) Nah - that would the Italians one forward and 15 reverse gears on their tan ks. The French just stopped. 8o) Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
I thought the 12G295 head was the recommended head for 1000cc a series upg rade. I stand to corrected of course. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
One for Capn Bob Passengers on a small commuter plane are waiting for the flight to leave. They're getting a little impatient, but the airport staff assures them that the pilots will be there soon, and the flight can take off. The entrance opens, and two men dressed in Pilots' uniforms walk up the aisle. Both are wearing dark glasses, one is using a guide dog, and the other is tapping his way up the aisle with a cane. Nervous laughter spreads through the cabin but the men enter the cockpit, the door closes, and the engines start up.... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
You can get 'anti bloom' thinners. Your local paint supplier should be able to advise you on things like min temp for spraying. Also you need a water separater in the line from the compressor to the gun as compressing the air squeezes out the water. Terry "terry.isherwood" 27534... MORE
When I first had my car a few years ago (!) I noticed that water collected in the bottom of the doors and so I drill a few small holes at the points where water seemed to remain. It may be just coincidence, but I am still using the original door frames and skins, with only surface rust top deal with. (not the easiest inside a door frame, but it can be done!) Oh, I think some Dinitrol fluid might have helped as well. :-) Of course, the holes totally ruin the originality, but on this one, I don't... MORE
Roger Not really given it to much thought yet, as thats a way off, but I'll probably use Finnegans Waxoil in all the box sections, and under the front bonnet lip. Incidentally, I'm close to glossing the doors and am seriously considering drilling three drain holes in the door bottom for the water to drain out - good idea? or not? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27522... MORE
Roger Yes I have 2kw fan heater in the garage I mostly use for drying the car off after rubbing it down, although I don't like using it because it just stirs dust into the air, which then conveniently lands on my fresh paint! Yes it should look good, specially considering its had a bare metal respray, which seriously added to the amount of work involved! Roger, the prep took forever, seriously its taken me months to get the bodywork to the stage of even being ready for topcoat. People just don't have a clue how much work is... MORE
When forced to spray at this time of year in the past, I heated the car and the garage by using a fan heater, which I turned off before spraying. Must have cost a few bob in electricity, but it seemed to just about eliminate the bloom. After all the effort you have put in, the car should look absolutely fantastic. Quite envious really, as I am still in the preparation stages! Like you I am never going to undertake anything like this ever again, not ever .... until next time perhaps.:-) "Roger Stinson" 27519... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Cap'n Been there, done that. The bottom section contains only a gauze type filter about 1/32" (+/-)thick. The upper section contains some weight but when I shake it there isn't any discernible movement as I would expect from a loose charcoal particle filter. At the bottom end (now open) of the upper section of the canister is what appears to be a perforated plate sitting on three radial plastic bars. These bars meet in the middle to form three open triangle sections; I assume to allow vapor, air, fluid to pass out thru the down tube. There may also... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Chris You've put your finger on it with the comment '...used everyday'. If its being used everyday, it means its out in all weather, including the =3D=0D dreaded rain and winter road salt. Water =3D Rust! Which is exactly why the owners of that car are beginning to see rust coming through. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27398... MORE
Chris, Yes our Rugby team took on the world and beat them all (USA went out quite early in the competition didn't they????? )- flame suit on . At least it was a real world championship not just limited to one country plus the occassional neighbour, now what sport is that , oh yes! Rounders - double thickness flame suit and running shoes on now. 8o) My wife wore my England shirt ( Will Carlings from the 96? - 5 nations cup) to work on Monday . She works in telecommunications and they have large TV screens on the... MORE
Robert, I am far from an expert on MG Midget handling having about 1200 miles of wheel time to date. Some of that time the car didn't run too well. That said, I love the way the car handles. In my opinion it is somewhat firmer and "blockier" if that makes sense. The car always jerked around beartifully; lefts, rights long curves etc. It feels more solid somehow with the new underpinnings. I believe someone on the list in the past stated that tossablitiy of the car declines with a wheel/tire combo that is too large. If memory serves,... MORE
