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Hi all, The generic model Purolator / Facet solid state fuel pump comes in several pressure models: 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 psi, 25 GPH Delivery 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 psi, 30 GPH Delivery I found the following information on the pressure of the original AUF 300 SU pumps AZX 1307 2.7 psi AZX 1308 3.8 psi both listed as 18 gal per hour. Question is . . . which model Purolator / Facet solid state fuel pump would work best as a replacement for the SU pump on a 74 Midget? Anyone had any experience with these pumps? Don Don May... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
Interesting comment on the initial start up after rebuilding concerning what oil to use.Can whoever mentioned the Volvo mechanic's comment tell me how to get on the Volvo bulliten board.Bob C bcah@... 37972... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
G'day Jim Joe's correct when he says :"A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill" However, these cars were/are designed for light weight synthetic oils. For example, often you will find overhead camshafts running directly in aluminium cylinder heads, with no intervening bearing material. Your car was designed with larger tolerances, and required a heavier grade oil. Rebuilding it doesn't change that. We use a standard mineral based oil (Penrite HPR30 which is 20W60 weight) in both road and race engines, and never have a problem with it. About 12 months ago we... MORE
I asked the synthetic oil question on the Volvo board recently. On that board is a long experienced Volvo mechanic who goes by the handle nickcleak. He shares his extensive knowledge freely, and it is his opinion that synthetic offers little advantage and only costs more. He recommends Castrol. FWIW "joe blxfstz" 37943... MORE
A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill, no special oil for break in. For a complete rebuild to factory or better tolerances, I'd think 10W30, but you might prefer 15W50. Since the price of petroleum oil has increased so much, and Mobil 1 is $4/qt at Wal-Mart, I've started running it in everything, Sprite, Caddy, Volvo, lawn mowers, generator. Keeps things simple. An early (500 miles?) oil change might be a good idea, sort of just in case there's something unexpected left in the engine. I once did an instrumented test with... MORE
I run what the original manufacturer recommends: Castrol 20w50, in my `79 Midget. Cheesy, I know. However, I may put in either 1 or 2 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5/50, depending on the season. For example, in the Winter I run 2 quarts Syntec, also when I know I am going on a 1,000 rally or something. The lighter weight synthetic helps with starting in the Winter (especially when it gets around 10 degrees); and for long drives, I just feel more confident in the Synthetic as far as keeping things clean and maybe a bit cooler than traditional.... MORE
"...or am I being over-cautious?" I don't know. You like being in the position of the engine quitting suddenly and arbitrarily at any given point in the t ime/space continuum due to fuel starvation??? Gimme a break!!! Replace the damn thing with a modern "electronic" (point-less) solid state pump and move on. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37918... MORE
It's a good thing you are not in the USA. If you had used a "torch" over here, that fuel pump could have caused a major disintegration of the body of the car and of you. Nelson Purposely dismantled MK 2 Sprite "Nelson Wittstock" 37915... MORE
Thanks for the advice guys. With the aid of an old wing mirror & torch I was able to locate the fuel the pump, give it a tap & sure enough "tick tick..." I think I'll keep a lookout for a spare, or am I being over cautious ? "johnco89" 37914... MORE
Hi, Jed! I live in a nice neighborhood, and my `79 Midget is garaged. However, I sometimes park in less than desirable areas and I have had issues with young jerks throwing beer cans, McDonald's waste, etc. into the cockpit of my car if not covered with a tonneau - in broad daylight in mall parking lots, etc.!! Also had a radio stolen once (before the car was garaged). The idiots tore open the top with a knife to crawl into the cockpit and ripped out the entire console. Radio was a Blaupunt with a "code," so it was... MORE
G'day guys Here's a little story that deserves to be told. Way back last August, I bought a used Datsun 5-speed box in the US, and had it shipped to Paul Asgeirsson at Morriservice to be rebuilt. A mate of mine was coming home from the US, and between the two of us we arranged Paul to supply two 5-speed conversion kits, my gearbox and another one for my mate. Well eventually they arrived, and in March my 5-speed Datto box and a kit went to another mate (Steve) 600 miles away, down in Melbourne. Steve fitted it to... MORE
Hi, Appolgies for a simple question but I'm a novice :) I've just damaged my back trying to locate the fuel pump on my '73 Midget. I believe pump may be faulty. (Car won't start & no "ticking sound" from rear end when ignition is first turned on. Thanks "johnco89" 37874... MORE
Yeah, right!! We're the devil.....all others are "OK", never do anything wrong or make mistakes, right?? They're "perfect", we're "guilty", right? You wanna throw rocks? Include France, Germany & Russia who sabatoged UN efforts vis a vis Iraq in favor of their own national interests vis a vis their underhanded Iraqi oil deals with Mssr. Saddam. You think we'd been in Iraq today had the UN had the support of the foregoing big powers??? You know how much international jealousy there is out there for our way of life here in these United States??? Obviously, you have no clue.... MORE
any gear oil in it. any advise on this is welcome. I have restored many many cars in my time including lots of engine rebuilds, but have never had to tear into a tranny. sounds like these are pretty easy though. or if someone happens to have a good used laying around let me know. that way I can get on the road for this summer. otherwise it will probably be a winter project for me. I'm in CO by the way thanks in advance mike "mblotz" 37824... MORE
Jim, I would be thrilled if I owned a BE that would be good enough to qualify as a "Trailer Queen". Or could it be a "Trailer King"? Bob Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a... MORE
A trailer queen is a car that has been restored by a "cheque book mechanic" i.e. the owner never touches it, not even to check the oil. Someone else k eeps the car fluids monitored, keeps the paint looking bright, and has new tires put on it when the old ones dry rot from not being used. This is also the car that looks great, sells at auctions for $25,000 U.S., and is NEVER driven. It would drop the value!! Thus, it is trailered to every show it i s shown at, thus, "trailer queen" Brad who owns a... MORE
Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a stone ding, or dust on the under side of the correct SU fuel pump. He perhaps wins shows and honors due to his years of hard work and care... MORE
G'day Joe The standard trick Down Under is to turn up the radio. Or fit one. Or take a nagging wife with you. If you don't have a nagging wife, borrow one from a friend - he will be grateful. My 1380cc race engine is a little worn. It was worn with rust marks in the bores when I first used it 12 years ago, and it hasn't improved by use. I'm not prepared to bore it to 74mm just yet, and so pistons are a little sloppy. Even new pistons aren't much tighter than the old used ones,... MORE
A piece of 1/2" teflon rod would go through the ID of the pin? Yep it's slap. I've had it apart twice. New pistons, pins and rings, nothing broken. A squirt of oil stops it for 20 seconds. I hope Ed thinks it's a bum idea. Thanks, Peter. "joe blxfstz" 37666... MORE
Ah, gotcha'. The problem is one cyl only, the others are fine on bore size and make no noise. The slappy cylinder has good compression, 155 psi, and it doesn't show any smoke or use oil. The only problem, at the moment anyway, is the noise. Maybe it's only an aesthetic thing, but it bugs me. Not enough however to justify a rebore and new pistons (and while it's apart, mains and rods and thrust washers, and might as well do a valve job, and while I'm at it, how 'bout an Al head, etc.) I digress. Here's what... MORE
Piston slap, #4 cylinder only. Cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are worn almost none, but #4 measured .006 oversize. I rebuilt it with std size pistons, assuming that they were worn more than the bores, and were the source of the tonk - tonk piston slap noise. Didn't work. It's still there. Compression is good, 155-160 psi. Doesn't smoke or use any oil. Goes away when fully warmed up, but... Questions - 1) Is this anything to lose sleep over? 2) Any "tricks" to lessen the noise?...uh, rebore and new pistons doesn't qualify as a "trick". "joe blxfstz" 37648... MORE
