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Hi... please don't laugh as I am a novice to this MG stuff. I have just purchased my first Midget and have a little niggle. When I turn the ignition key to the first position I get a subtle knocking noise - obviously something electrical - maybe fuel pump or starter motor???? As I start the engine and drive this knocking is still there (so obviously a necessary part of the running of the car) but the noise becomes louder and louder on an ad-hoc basis especially after a long run then pulling up at traffic lights). Should I... MORE
Well, I think I have established two things. I need to uncrimp the crank case ventilation systempipe cnnections in the picture which I have not yet done. The second thing is that this won't rectify my oil problem. I am going to do a little reading on the ventilation system over the weekend. Could a blockage somewhere else in the ventilation system be causing a buildup of pressure? I am on the road, ahnd will be out of touch, but will report back to the teacher(s)next week. http://www.northweb.sk.ca/kevin/mg/pinch.jpg Here is the picture which is likely useless, but I took... MORE
If the knocking is coming from the rear of the car what you are hearing is the fuel pump which is located in back in the wheel well. The time to worry is when you do not hear it at least on occasion. When you turn the key on it starts pumping and stops when the float bowls are full then it turns off and on as necessary to supply gas to the carburetors. A tip while on the subject . . . sometimes with older Spridgets, especially after sitting for a long time, the surface of the contacts... MORE
Not to throw a wrench in the discussion, but nobody has mentioned the changing characteristics of various steels which are dependant on temperature and vibrations. Not that I know anything about it :-) "Trevor Jessie" 25541... MORE
Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE
If you can pull the tube oout with the nut tightened, that is your problem. There should be a ferrule in the end of the tube that the nut holds but compression. You probably need news fuel feed lines between the jet and the float. I think the jet comes with these as an assembly. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25528... MORE
I have been watching this thread, and have missed where the oil is coming from. I had a problem with my Bugeye (1275) a while back in that it was cold and I was putting 20/50 oil in. The oil was right, but the tempature was too cold and the oil was too thick to go back down the pushrod holes. I found a leak at the back of my valve cover, and I had "OIL, OIL Everywhere" Since he says that his engine is cold, and he just bought the car, I am wondering, 1. did you change... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
I finally got fuel flow up to the carbs but the front jet is leaking where it threads into the float bowl. I tightened it but it still leaks the tube can be pulled out of the nut even when tight. Is there anything that can be done or is it time for new jets? This engine better start right away or else! Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25526... MORE
"Ok, I exaggerated" Oh....ok. 'Cause you never know, Kevin... people do put different engines in these cars from time to time. So...back on track. I would go with the Bob Gardner idea regarding running the engine without the valve cover and seeing whether the oil is flowing freely down the lifter holes back down into the block..... and let us know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25523... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE
Fuel Tank In my application or case...the filter screen was attached to the end of the tube pickup and touched the floor of the tank in my application...the tube itself ended short of the tank floor by about 3/4". I don't recall the tube being anything but vertical in the last part of it's length. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25495... MORE
Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE
Jim, A feeler gauge won't do for this operation. If you can get a feeler gauge in, you clearance is probably double what you are reading. There are pressures you need to simulate and feeler gauge won't do. You can buy the tools I suggested from Harbor Freight for about $30. Get a dial caliper while you are at it. About another $20. This may require more than a kiss...'-) Gerard "gerardchateau" 25461... MORE
When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE
Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for them to be too tight. Are you using standard or overside thrust washers? They are marked for size on the backside. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25439... MORE
Martyn.... BTDT. You poor ba$ta-d....and I speak from experience. What we did was pull the tank, pull the sender, find youthful human being with really thin arms (my mechanic's 16 year old was on hand, thank God) and get in there with a long needle nose pliers (or whatever) and wrench the clogged up filter netting right off the steel fuel feed line. This will take a lot of patience to finally get a grip on the stupid thing to the extent you have the leverage to disloge it from it's pipe, unless you get lucky...which I hope you... MORE
Everything is ready to start the engine but no fuel! Arrgh! I must have screwed up when I sealed my tank! I must have sealed the outlet pipe shut. I remember someone having done the same and fixed it. I don't remember what the fix was, must be old age! I've tried poking a piece of 1/8 inch wire down the fitting but not sure if I've reached the offending blockage. Thanks for the help. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25433... MORE
Naw. It would be nearly impossible to have too much oil from the rocker assy, and the movement of the push rods (which move somewhat sideways as well as up and down) would prevent the holes from plugging up. What you've got is excessive crankcase pressure, which prevents the oil draining back into the sump. Since the engine sat for a long time, may have multiple broken piston rings, possibly a broken piston. Have a compression test done. If compression is good, then the problem is plugged up or disconnected crankcase ventilation system. With the oil fill cap removed,... MORE
Jeff Holmes states: "Naw" Could be, Jeff. But I know a guy who raced a Spridget up at Lime Rock that had the exact problem I speak of....now this isn't a racing application as far as we know...but we don't know otherwise either....this could be a street tuned motor for all we know...lister didn't say and probably doesn't know.... excessive rocker clearances with otherwise good bearing clearances reasonably good oil pressure which could flood the valve area in a hearbeat. That's why I asked this lister if he had oil going by the lower engine seals and out the... MORE
Check to see if the hose from the top of the oil separator canister on front of the timing chain cover to the carburetors is clogged up and if the two small inlet pipes where the hoses connect at the carburetors are not clogged up. Spray a little carburetor cleaner in them. Don "Don May" 25419... MORE
Hi Kevin, As Cap'n suggests, too much oil frpm the rocker assembly OR blocked or restricted oil passages where the pusrods pass through. I'd be surprised if it had oversized ones, so more likely restricted. Could be a combination of both. Welcome to the list. As a newcomer. I invite you to check out my web site... lots of useful info for you and lots of fun stuff too. http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm Gerard "gerardchateau" 25400... MORE
Hello, I recently purchased a 1974 MG Midget. I had a mechanic (not especially knowledgable with British cars) go over the entire thing and get it road worthy as it was parked for a long time. I put about 50 miles on it in August, and suddenly I have oil pushing up through the oil cap. It leaks all over the head and then gets on the manifold and burns. THis all happens after about 1 minute of idling. I drained the oil, thinking that it was overfilled, but it only had just over 2 litres in it. (Capacity... MORE
