MAIN
Gauges
Previous Page | Next Page
Very rare bonnet built from 1961-1964 in Southern California one of only three known to be left, completely restored, all cracks fixed, new gel coat and painted red. This will fit all Sprites/Midgets (MKII+) with mods, or tilt forward replacement for bugeye. This bonnet was used for racing (have documents)and also comes with custom fabracated alum ducts for radiator and oil cooler. E-mail me for photos or check out my photos in the gallary. $1200.00 with documents including a signed letter from Sir Thomas Denner Contact: Mike Satterfield Email: michaelsatterfield@ hot mail.com Tel: 909-947-8099 Location: Ontario (Southern California) California... MORE
Nigel, I must admit I always have difficulty with finding products that our friends on the list in the States discuss and are so familiar with! Often wish they would explain the proper scientific chemical name rather than brand names like "Marvel Oil" etc. (Marvel in the UK is a dried milk substitute) Anyway, now I am doing it, referring to Jenolite!! Jenolite is an automotive strength Phosphoric Acid. The bottle I have here is a 1 litre bottle I bought in Halfords, manufactured by Bluecol Brands Ltd., Stewart Road, Kingsland Industrial Estate, Basingstoke RG24 0GX Tel 01256 474661... MORE
Ok folks I'm new to the MG money pit ! :) I need a windshield post for my 79 MG midget, and can any one tell me how to go about replaceing the glass. The next problem is engine overheating. That is a LONG story but I'm glad to share it with any one willing to listen. Lastly is body work. I need some help here too. I have been able to beat the prince of darkness ( Lucas ) at his own game hahaha. Also anyone out there need a tester for Triumph TR type fuel guages? I... MORE
On a '75 I would suspect the fuel pump diaphragm may have a tear in it. At higher speeds it would result in insufficient fuel supply to the carbs; fuel level would be low and would result in a weak fuel mixture. Take the top off the fuel pump and check the condition inside. Guy "Guy Weller" 23549... MORE
Dear Listers, I hope someone out there can point me in the right direction. Just finished ( to the point where it should run well) my '75 Midget. I have a recurring problem with stumbling and power loss during higher speed cruising, above 40 mph. The spluttering is usually accompanied by a 5 dg. or so rise in coolant temp. If I back off, the car will smooth out again and run OK if I don't push it. The magic number seems to be 50 mph. If I cruise lower than that I usually don't have problems. At 50... MORE
Rob... the temp rise, along with the stumble... tells me it's running very lean at higher speeds. Do an old fashioned 'plug check'. Find a stretch of road where you can cruise at say.. 30-40mph steady for about 10 minutes. While at speed, switch off the ignition and coast/brake over to the side of the road. Pull a sparkplug and see if it's whitish, or grayish/brown in color. Now repeat the cruise at 50-55mph. Kill the engine at speed Pull over and check the plugs again. If they are much whiter than before....it's running lean. If you simply slow... MORE
sorry, the only measurements I have seen are for use with original dealer body checking gauge sets, so you're out of luck unless you happen to have one of those hanging around! You could try marking your own datum points on the centre-line of the car (start by making diagonal lines from fixed points left and right to accurately find the centre) then measure where the shock absorber mounting holes come relative to this centre. One other thing, have you checked the top trunnions to make sure they're the same each side? Regards David "David Jacobs" 23522... MORE
Mark Don't do it the gauge is easy to remove the dash is not. Just undo the knurled nut at the back of the clamp and pop it out, the oil pipe union can be unscrewed from the engine or the back of the gauge (once popped out) the water temperature sender connection if it is into the rad (as mine is on the 66) can be a bit of a pig to remove without damaging the sender cable but if you are renewing the gauge this will not matter. Best of luck Dave (65 & 66 Sprites in... MORE
G'day all Here's your chance to own a genuine piece of history. An Arkley Sprite, modified only by the complete body shell, Mazda Rotary engine, Honda Prelude gauges etc etc. But wait - there's more. According to the owner: "the radio is not connected, but it used to work." Grab it while you can. Must be a one-off. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 23416... MORE
to retain my amateur status, here goes: After jillions of mini engines, here I am building a standard motor. The end half-seals that fit the slots in the oil pan: How do they go? They don't look right to me. Thanks, David McCartney Captain Rapture 23443... MORE
Thanks your pics are helpful. It appears that the upper bolts are accesed from under the dash, correct? I have tried to remove the lower screws and bend the dash out for access but it has a lot of resistance. The dual gauge is above the steering column and limits access. "MARK " 23368... MORE
in fact, you can't actually remove the dash completely till you've taken the dual gauge out, because you can't separate the temperature capillary; you have to unscrew it from the engine end and thread it all back through the bulkhead. "David Jacobs" 23358... MORE
I've completed converting my Bugeye over to negative ground, but I am having a problem converting the tachometer from positive ground to negative. The only tach conversion instructions I have been able to find on the internet or books are for a different type (earlier positive ground tachs?) and the configuration & colored wires do not match. I need advise from Listers who have done a similar tach conversion in past. First ... tach is not original Bugeye. My tach is from a later Mark 2 Sprite (HAN7), specifically a Smiths RVI2401/00 Positive Earth. The white wires wrap around... MORE
just purchased a 68 midget. the water/oil gauge does not work and want to repair or replace it. In doing so, I wanted to remove the dash to give me easier access to the faulty gauge but cant find how the top of the dash is attached to the car. service manuals talk about four screws along the top of the dash but haven't found them. any suggestions on how to approach this? "MARK " 23355... MORE
mid page at http://www.teglerizer.com/midgetstuff/interior2.htm you can see the line of holes where the dash bolts to the sheet metal. (pictures of dashboard not installed mid page) You should be able to 'approximate' where to start looking for the bolts by comparing stuff lower down. also...at the bottom of the dash, you have a few 'straps' that are the lower mounts for the dash. Remove the screws on those mounts and you can 'bend' the dash out about 2" to more easily access the rear of the gauges. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 23364... MORE
You do not have to remove the dash to get the gauge out. Reach under the dash, remove the bracket holding the gauge in place, pull the gauge out of the dash just enough to remove the oil line, remove the cap. tube from the radiator, then pull the system out via the hole in the dash. Replace in the opposite manner. Zegrod53@... 23356... MORE
"Anyone ever fitted electric fan to a Mk.3 Midget..... Affirmative, M&M....guilty. Front mounted along with use of 5 bladed trop plastic fan for summer, heavy NYC Metro area traffic...good results. A few questions....is the tendency to run warm occurring "at speed" or crawling along as in traffic! Are you using a theromstadt? If so, summer one? You running a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix? If not, what's the current "ratio" of the mix? At around what ambient temperature does the tendency to run warm under the "circumstance" become apparent? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23354... MORE
Re: Fuel Pump Pressure? Hey does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be coming out of the fuel pump on a 1978 1500 midget? Mine is 5 1/2 pounds. When I drive over 3500 RPM's / 60-65 MPH the gas goes to the front charcoal canister, fills it and chokes out the carb. I take off the bottom hose, drain and ok for another 20 miles. We tried everything and it still happens. I was thinking maybe the pressure is too high. Any thoughts. Joe Blitz Rochester NY "Joe Bellizia" 23310... MORE
a friend of mine wanted to test a secondhand Triumph Dolomite engine before buying it, and simply connected top and bottom hose together, and with the temperature gauge connected, just ran it till it showed on the gauge - a minute or two - long enough to see if there were any unusual noises or anything. (the engine was 'mounted' in a supermarket trolley for this test!) This method is simpler if you don't have access to a water supply, but slightly more risky than Cap'n Bob's, as there is nowhere for the expanding coolant to go, so pressure... MORE
I must apologize to those who followed my progress report, just don't have the time nor the room anymore to work on my 67 Sprite. It is a 67 Sprite that is torn down and middle of restoration. It has a lot of body work done already and shouldn't take much to finish. The shell and doors were professionally sandblasted to bare metal. (cost over $400 for just that). Car is apart but well cataloged, small parts in Ziplock bags with labels, bigger parts in categorized plastic bins, shell on a dolly, new VB parts used cost over $600.... MORE
G'day all Gotta ask - why?????? Under heavy braking, when the weight transfers to the front, the rear brakes lock up with the standard drum brakes fitted. I get slower as I get older (or so my bride tells me), but perhaps someone can explain to me why locking up the rears sooner (by using disc brakes) is an advantage. Personally, I enjoy power oversteer, but don't cherish disappearing backwards into the shrubbery under hard braking. Of course I have seen a few people fit rear disc brakes. Guess what they fit next. A brake biassing valve (usually off... MORE
Not sure, Roger. Bugeye, Bugeye gas gauge, sender new/unused in original box, bought from a parts pack rat in '00. Didn't study or keep the box or part #. Just checked to verify reasonable variable resistance data and then installed it in stock Bugeye tank. It "looked" the same externally as the old one. H "hamondale" 23228... MORE
results (recorded in my notebook a couple of years ago): approx Resistance position (ohms) E 7 1/4 18 1/2 31 3/4 70 F 880 The variation was smooth, but obviously non-linear. (Expressing the relationship as a higher order polynomial is left to the student as a homework exercise.) I have no idea why it differs with Don's data, but it could be my meter among other things - an old Sears multifunction auto analyzer. What I can say is that it looked reasonable, and when coupled to my stock fuel (oops, petrol) gauge, the combo worked fine. I routinely... MORE
For those whose curiosity is acute here is a link to how a gas gauge works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge2.htm Don "Don May" 23220... MORE
Hi Guys How can you test that the fuel tank sender unit is working correctly WITHOUT hooking it back up to the fuel tank and connecting it to the battery. Is there a multimeter test that can be done? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23198... MORE
