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Virginia Yes I like Extra Virgin Olive Oil, excellent on pizza's! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26768... MORE
Just regular old engine oil. 30 weight, 40 weight, 10w 5w "Virginia" 26767... MORE
Wire wheel, rear axle, I have gear oil coming out from the welch plug (oil collects in the spinner). I pulled out the plug and the seal is bad. I am unable to find a direct replacement part from Moss. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to build a new plug and/or seal to eliminate the oil leaking through? (1967 Sprite) I am replacing the bearings and grease seals also but have these parts available. Thanks for the help. Brandon "brandonweeks2000" 26725... MORE
Its a bummer when something like that happens, I hope you didn't have to dr ive too far on 3 cylinders. All sorts of unnatural stresses on the crank et c Assuming it's a clean engine there should be plenty of oil down there, in f act should be almost flooded most of the time. Is it ? Did the pushrod drill a hole in the cam follower (the push rod rotates whe n running normally - if it sticks you get abnormal wear )or did the cam 'we ar' away the base of the follower. Either way check... MORE
Damm, That's one think that bothers me about these lists, very few people will really take the time to give you the information that you really need. Your question of "if it was converted to neg. earth is there anything I should check to make sure it was done correctly?" Yes, the tach. As per Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. restoration of the MG Midget & Austin-Healey Sprite: pg 222: Remove the tachometer from the car by undoing the two knurled nuts and taking off the lock washers and clips. "Robert Webb" 26692... MORE
Brandon Not sure if this will help answer your question, but it will put things into perspective for you. The change over point for RHD cars from positive to negative earth was at HAN9-72041 and GAN4-60460, November 1967. This involved a change of rev counter, wiper motor, fuel guage with voltage stabiliser. The Temperature gauge changed to C-N-H graduation. Now I'm not sure when the change-over came for LHD cars, but it must have been around the same time. So it looks like from your VIN number it was originally a Negative Earth car. The only real way of... MORE
Chris N. A couple of years ago, the market was flooded with lifters from the UK of low rockwell hardness. Bill Perry (and others) got a warning on these. When did you get yours? You see, the problem is all that metal that is no longer there went circulating around in your oil. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26685... MORE
I don't know from the VIN, but if the tach is original and says pos earth, then it must have been. The tach won't work negative earth without some internal wiring, but the generator and fuel pump will, the gen by simply repolarizing. the aftermarket radio is almost certainly neg earth, as there haven't been any pos earth ones made for a long time. Installation of the radio may be the reason for the conversion. I'd leave it neg earth, as that condition slightly lessens body corrosion. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26677... MORE
I have a 1967 Sprite that I just bought. The guy I bought it from swears that it was originally a negative earth. However, he only had it a few months and was not sure. Points leading to a negative earth; It is currently hooked up that way on the battery and the generator and fuel pump seem to work fine. There has also been an aftermarket radio installed. Why I think it was a positive earth: The Tach says positive earth (which is currently not working) and the VIN is more like a positive earth...HAN9L64745 Is there anything... MORE
If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Cap'n Bob, My you do go on. I can't process all of what you sent but I will speak to part of it. As the father of two boys (21 and 15)I know (first hand empirical) that the parents of children within 5-10 years of mine either way are the worst in a long time. This is my generation and they, as a group, suck! The catalog of selfishiness, over-indulgence in all areas, horrific judgement and evasion of adult responsibilities of all kinds is truly mind-blowing. All the silliness of the 60's and 70's was pounded into the wits... MORE
Nigel, If I did not know what country you live in, I would think you were talking about the US. I think the last good place left is finding a little place on the beach in Mexico. Just sit in the sun, put oil on your honey's scantly clad body, sip some tequila and don't worry about anything. Then do it again tomorrow!!!!! Hmmmmmm I am close enough, I think I will go down there tomorrow for a few days.........lololol By the way, your David Frost, quite a few years ago said, "The American form of government is like... MORE
Roger Thanks for taking the time to reply. I got it in the end, once I'd got it clear in my mind what I needed to do. Not really knowing how the bearings and oil seals actually sat inside the hub was my main problem. Once I understood how it all fitted together and the sequence in taking it apart ie one bearing came out one end and the other bearing the other end I was able to position the drift in the right place and gave it a sharp thwack and out it popped! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26517... MORE
Put a little hook under the oil seal and pull. They even used to have a special service tool to do it. I always used a metal bar and put it under (into) one side of the oil seal and pressed down on the other end using the oposite side of the the housing as the fulcrum. It always worked. If rust is the problem, a bit more elbow grease is required. R. "Roger Stinson" 26512... MORE
Hi guys, Many thanks to you all (including Ed) ; ) who helped with the bearing removal from the front hub. Armed with your advice I was able to pop the bearing and oil seal out this morning no problem at all. Now I just have to figure out what grease to put in it . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26496... MORE
That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Nigel, do you mean the oil seal or the grease cap/'welch plug'? The hole in the centre of the inner bearing is smaller than the actual oil seal, and is quite big enough to get a drift through. David "David Jacobs" 26480... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I don't think the splined part unbolts, I think its all in one. I'll have a go at destroying the oil seal, as I think this is what's causing all the problem, I suspect that with that oil seal out of the way, the bearing's will pop out quite easily. I admit to having used so far a length of timber as a drift (as I'm very concerned about scoring/damaging inside of the hub itself) and I don't think I'm getting enough 'whack' on it. I'll try destroying the oil seal, if that doesn't... MORE
David Thanks for the advice, but how do I actually drift the outer bearing out from the splined end, when I cant get a drift onto it, because the oil seal is in the way ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26476... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I've removed everything except the bearing and seals. Which side? I've been trying to drift it out by inserting a drift from inside the splined hub part. I think its the oil seal thats not moving. I've been bashing away at it and it either hasn't moved, or its moved by about 0.5 mil. Any ideas how I can get it to move? I thought about heating up the end, but I'm very concerned about damaging anything. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26459... MORE
All, I searched the archive but could not find a post and my local trans shop was no help. I just put a 5 speed datsun trans into my bugeye and am trying to locate info as to what oil to use and how much. Just guessing I'd say 30w std motor oil and about a quart. But more accurate information is always helpful. Thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 26454... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
Ken... The Datsun box utilizes standard mineral based gear oil although I personally favor "synthetic" gear oil in the winter months for much easier shifing in the cold (just changed over yesterday as a matter of fact). The foregoing having been said, the synchronizers were made with normal mineral based gear oils in mind though, so while cold weather shifting (most especially from 1st to 2nd) will be much easier with synthetic, synchronizer effectiveness will suffer a bit for you "quick shifters"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26456... MORE
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html Follow the above link, and you'll find a manual on the transmission. It has a filler hole that can be accessed from the underside of the car. I honestly can't remeber what what oil I used. (I debated the issue several days with my father before going with the oil mentioned in the rivergate kit instructions) "Trevor Jessie" 26458... MORE
