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Jens, Maybe..... Condensation is collecting in your silencer (muffler). Only when you have run the engine for a little while does this warm up enough for the condensed water to evaporate and produce the white cloud. Still possible that it is originating from a fault with the head gasket, allowing water to leak through into the cylinders, but not causing an obvious leak to the outside or mixing of oil and water. Have you tried a compression test? Guy "Guy Weller" 32108... MORE
"tribilogist"??? Jeeze Alan, talk English for chrissake!! :):) I use fully synthetic "Oil Extreme" in my 1293 which used Valvoline 10/40 min. oil on initial break-in. No difference in water vapor upon initial start. Engines with cats produce very hot exhaust gases...what temp do cats operate at? Hot enough so you must be cautious when parking them over grassy areas? Really hot!! Otherwise, how are you this morning? (Err, you're mid-afternoon!:). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32112... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
"I think it's time for a thorough check-up here" Good for you, Jens. Exactly right my friend. There is something called a "chain" (of events) which leads sailors/boats & pilots/airplanes, drivers/cars to disaster. Wise men "move" on the "second event", drop back and take an objective "look" and go to Plan B when Plan A starts going to hell for whatever reasons. You have to be aware of a "chain" developing so you can "change the plan" to break that "chain" and "avoid" a major problem. Event #1... While a PITA, the not fully sealing head gasket can be... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
You have worn valve guide on the inlets. You can replace the seals on the valve stems, but it will only make a marginal difference. The problem is that when the throttle is shut there is a vacuum in the inlet port area, created by the piston going down and nothing to go in. The inlet valves are open, but not the carb's butterflies. Hence vacuum. This pulls oil from the rocker area thru the valve guides and most of it burns on the back of the inlet valves. Once you're underway this diminishes and you are ok. Don't... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
Dear Listers, After my mechanical fuel pump failed at 1500 miles I am entertaining the idea of going electric. The enigine is out so.........! Found a Walbro fixed electric pump 2.5 to 4.5 lbs. pressure delivery on JC Whitney. Should I make the swithch? Is the Walbro a reasoable unit? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32012... MORE
Facet is now owned by Purolator. Quaker State is now owned by Pennzoil. Fram builds all the Pennzoil oil filters. The list goes on!!! Paul a Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] E-bay fuel pump This same low pressure pump is marketed by Purolator under part # 12S or PRO 12S Chris PilotRob@... writes: "Paul Asgeirsson" 31995... MORE
Ed, You're right and I'm not! Page 34 of the "Complet Official MG 1500 Shop Manual gives kerbside weight "including full fuel and all optional extras as 1849 lbs./839 kg NOT 1859 lbs. How much do I make out the check for and would it be for cash? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31961... MORE
Sounds like either a) more suction on the front carb - in which case you need to balance the carbs, adjusting the throttle stop screws of each whilst litening to the induction hiss from each one in turn - or using one of the many crb ballancer kits available or b) You have not got the jets adjusted to the same point on both carbs, allowing the front one to pull more fuel through. The start point is both jets flush with the bridge ( see "cryptic manual" thread ), and then lower both jets by the same amount... MORE
Hi list, I have huffaker spec 1 1/4" HS2's on my 948 competion motor. When I look in the air rams I see a fountain of un-atomized fuel coming up around the needle of the front carb while running. No fuel is visible when looking in the rear carb. I'm guessing the front float bowl needle is not shutting off and pressure is building up and forcing the fuel in the carb. I have a holley pressure regulater that I think I have adjusted to the minimum pressure (about 1 psi) Is this likely the cause? (I have new... MORE
BTW... www.LBCarCo.com also carries a "reasonably priced" nifty little round LP electric fuel pump as well. They've advertised and carried this pump for a long time so while I've no personal experience with it, it must be decently reliable and dependable or it would have disappeared from Jeff's stocks a long time ago, methinks. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31903... MORE
I'm running a pair of inch and a half SU's and no idea what the fuel pressure should be. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 31884... MORE
Dear Listers, All this fuel pump talk has got me indecisive. Had to have the car towed home after the mechanical pump crapped out with under 1500 miles on it. I now have the motor out for clutch replacement and vacillating between buying a new mechanical or getting a $40 Warburg electronic and fitting that. Besides the usual concerns I'm also installing twin SU's to replace the ace Stromberg. The larget twin fuel bowls are a concern or am I being iggerant? Advice and comments are kindly solicited Rob C 75 Midget being redone right..... I hope. Webfoot Leisure.com... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
Solid state (electronic) SU Fuel Pump from Moss...US$119.95 in either pos or neg ground. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31868... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
I plan to throw out my mechanical fuel pump on my 62 948 engine and replace it with an electronic pump. This pump model on e-bay ( http://tinyurl.com/2l72d ) has been there a number of times but I wonder if it would be a satisfactory substitute for the SU solid state version. Any thoughts? I figure I'd worry about getting mounting brackets later. Nelson "witstock7" 31861... MORE
I can say one thing.. one DCOE on a 1500 is not much point. You should use two!. Second thing, don't bother with the choke on them unless you are firing up in artic conditions all it will do is flood the engine. Last thing don't bother with anything bigger than a 40 DCOE, 45's and 48's are all well and good but all they will achieve is more fuel use and no extra performance. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31849... MORE
Rob... What year "B" ('68 emissions or pre '68 non-emissions) as to open or closed circuit fuel system. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31833... MORE
Ed, Sorry! I meant mechanical fuel PUMA. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31829... MORE
