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Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Setting the ignition timing made a big difference, it now idles at 1500. I believe that the VP3 cam is causing a large vacuum and the pistons are being raised more than is normal. Cap'n Bob suggested using a stiffer spring in the carbs. Those are on order so next weekend should be the final step in getting the beast sorted. I put 30wt oil in the dampers and that helped with the piston oscillations but they are still more open than I think they should be. Am I correct in thinking the stiffer springs are the right solution... MORE
Do not use an adhesive using any petroleum products/ solvents. It causes the Lexan to craze, loose strength and break down. Try to keep oil/petrol etc clear also as these affect Polycarbonate, which is what Lexan is, if my memory is functioning on all cylinders. (For choice, I would use Acrylic, but that doesn't help you does it! :-) Reminds me of the old countrymans saying - If I was going there, I wouln't start from here ....) R "Roger Stinson" 26402... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
if im building a midget metro turbo but want to keep the boost to 7/8 psi and use an intercooler and aquamist 1s water injection could i use the comp ratio of 9.4:1? and remain well under detonation level? what would be the best way to build this engine or which engine midget/marina etc would be best to use for this application? the reason for the higher comp is i still want good half throttle fuel economy which ignition system would people reccomend for this too? thanks for using everyones vast knowledge rob "Robert EADES" 26378... MORE
Do you smell gas when driving of if the car is parked? If no puddles, no smell, no pools of fluid on the engine then are you sure you are losing fuel? Could it be the gauge? Fill it up drive home...Park it...next day go back and fill her up again. How much is gone? More than normal for that trip? Could someone be stealing your gas out of the tank? Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 26366... MORE
I try to read what you post, but, the car that you took in, is it the midget? What year? Do you see puddles under the car? I know you have a British car, but I don't know it this is the car that we are talking about. What color are the puddles? Where are they? front, like the carbs, or rear like the fuel tank? Bob Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26362... MORE
Ed... This is strictly a matter of density altitude or to put it differently, the amount of air molecules per cubic foot of.....air!! The air at 10,000 feet is much "thinner" than the air at sea level...it is much "lighter" per cubic foot. Fr'instance, at sea level a cubic foot of air weighs 14.7 lbs. It weighs half of this at an altitude of 18,000 feet. The adiabatic lapse rate (temp. change per thousand feet) and it's humidity figure into this but we'll ignore these for now. So for the volume of air taken in at 10,000 feet, you... MORE
According to Horler's bible, Jaeger instruments were fitted to Mk 1 Midgets only, the equivalent Sprite Mk 2 having equivalent Smiths gauges, see Page 58. As far as I can recall Jaeger Gauges were badge engineered Smiths Gauges and were in fact made by Smiths in Cheltenham...like.... flame suit donned.... the Midget was a badge engineered Sprite! Mk 2 and later Midgets had Smiths instruments, page 78. Geri Sprite Mk IV "G & J Swann-Price" 26329... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Well, Alan (good morning, BTW!)... The VP3 would be "more" of a cam in the smaller rather than larger bore engines. The shorter the stroke, the more "square" the engine, the more "revability", all else equal (BIG caveat.. the latter!:). So, the long bore stock 1098 wouldn't be a "revver" but man, it has got to be one of the smoothest of all Series A varients with it's "silky" exhaust note. Martyn's 1098 is "built" though. Friend of mine owns an XK140....huge Jaeger gauges....a good 4.5" I believe for tach and/or speedo. Good point on the red lights...which is... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
Brad I'm not an expert on gauges, but I don't beleive Jaeger was ever a British company, some may have been made here and fitted to British cars, but I don't think Jaeger was ever British, in fact I thought it was German, shows how much I know ; ) Also, asking what car it came out of originally, is a but like asking what car did this Dunlop tyre come off? They were fitted to all sorts of cars. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26282... MORE
I was out yardsaling yesterday (big surprise) and found a Jaeger gauge. This idiot selling it tried to tell me it came out of a GTO. He worked at a wrecking yard, and he took it out of one. Anyway I don't know what car it came in, but it is odd that a Brit gauge would say on the face Jaeger Electronique. That is frog language, isn't it?? BTW, I AM of French heritage, so I can say that! The bezel is 4 1/4" in diameter, and the gauge body is 2 1/2" deep. Any ideas on what... MORE
My Brother-in-law just bought a 72 Citroen DS 21, the gauges are Jaeger Electronique. . . . It like ridding on air sitting on overstuffed living room couches. It has a central hydraulic system that runs the suspension, transmission, power steering and brakes . . . an inch and a half round red warning indicator is in the center of one of the gauges labeled "STOP", needless to say it is the hydraulic failure indicator. Being Scotch, Irish, French and German, and who knows what else I have a broad range of folks I can be politically incorrect with.... MORE
Sure - you can do a great paint job yourself. There're just a few things to remember. 99% of a good job is in the prep. Take time and do it right. Buy good quality paint. Ask the guy at the auto paint store. Find a reasonably clean place to paint. Use a decent gun and compressor. Don't paint when the humidity is too high or the temp too low. And, finally, don't worry about mistakes spraying. Sandpaper will correct them all for another go... "Jeffrey Holmes" 26255... MORE
G'day Cap'n I think it's RON. There is only one octane measurement over here, down under. And yes, it's unleaded. With one of those in-line zinc fuel catalyst thingies to protect the valve seats. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 26237... MORE
couple of years? what on earth for? did they get it wrong the first four times?! David The car 4 & the Hardtop 5. Yes, runs, chips, runs, bubbling, picking up the hardtop when wet with dirty hands, & 1 on the hardtop, my fault by my putting car cover on to keep neighbors cat off the car & top when the top wasn't cured enough and temp. got to 95. "Robert Webb" 26231... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
I have two questions mostly revolving around the same issue involving my 3.9 diff I'll be transplanting to my Bugeye project. Has anyone on the list rebuilt a differential and if so how was the crushable spacer handled as I don't see this as a part that can be ordered from the normal sources. Second question, If I just replace the diff pinion oil seal how is the torque to the pinion nut handled? It's torqued to 140 ft/lbs but doesn't that have the potential to further crush that spacer? Ok, I'm going to take advantage of the list... MORE
Hi Seem to be having trouble getting enough fuel from tank to engine. I get excellent fuel pressure from end of line (at the tank) to carb. Once it's hooked to tank I get drastic pressure drop. The car will idle and rev fine, even drive ok but when I punch it out it dies out. No fuel at carb. I have had tank off a couple times and it is clean. Air blows through pickup tube nice and strong. This is a '79 1500 Midget with the tank with vent tube that goes into emissions system. I have... MORE
AH, HAH. Changes the whole story, Mike. Yep.... corrosion in the tank seems to be the culprit, then. But check that fitting where the tube goes into the tank, 'cause it could be a "combo" situation....a little contamination of the fuel supply along with an air leak where the outside tube to fuel pump line meets the tank. Hope this cures your situation...most likely will I bet, at least temporarily. Now...do you overhaul the old tank to get rid of the corrosion problem ("coating") or do you spring for a new one, considering the prior problem at the external... MORE
