MAIN
Gauges
Previous Page | Next Page
Funny you should mention heat. It was 90 out when it was tested & they had to run the test 3 times because they couldn't get it right. They take the car up to 60 on the dynamometer (she was screamin') and by the end of the third test the poor thing was overheating badly. I'll try again when the temp cools off a bit. Thanks for the info! Kevin "kari_kevin" 24744... MORE
Kevin, 1500 run pretty clean ususally. I got a '75 to pass in California without a working (gutted( air pump and blocked air injection lines. I would think the EGR valve is essential though. Make sure the carb is properly tuned at that you choke is complete off with the car warmed up. I would run the carb as lean as possible and do a fresh oil change before having it tested. I don;t have a lot of experience with SMOG cars, so maybe someone else has somethig to ad. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24721... MORE
Brad!! You don't know where the water went to? You gotta find out (obviously!!:). You running a bypass hose? Is it old (worn)? These little devils (most especially the new "fluted" ones) develop little pinholes (before they develop a big one "all of a sudden") and slowly seep water. Usually it shows up in the vicinity of the steering box on the rack looking like oil. Of course, they don't leak when running unpressurized! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24690... MORE
Jeeze! What a day, eh?! :( First you lose the water you need, than you get a load of it in the wrong places.... this does bite the big one. It's a matter of wait and see, Brad. The damage (if any) often does not show up immediately, but downline a couple of thousand miles or so. You can get a head start on this though, by taking a compression and leak-down ASAP and noting the figures...save 'em. Take another "set" a thousand miles or so down the road and compare. If they are basically the same, you most... MORE
Brad, A couple things. Hopefully you have dodged a bullet. I have heard stories of A-series engine overheated to the point of seizing up but running again once cooled down. I'm not saying that no damage occurs, but while not good, not necessarily fatal either. I would keep an eye on your oil because symptoms could be delayed. A weakened head gasket or crack around a valve could develop problems later. Other things I've seen as evidence of overheating are damage to pistons and rings from the swelling. Pistons will show significant scuffing on the skirts where they hit... MORE
Welcome, Sam... Suggest you follow DLancer's advice and be prepared to do both rear brakes as well (unless the other side is basically new) as that oil usually renders that particular side useless in this respect.... Afraid I do not have the parts you seek, though I do already have a copy of Blaggot's fine book, thank you! As far as additives go, don't exactly know what motivates you in this, Sam. Usually, a quality brand is all that is required along with oil/filter changes every 3K or so. It is the additive package which is usually the difference... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
The story.for those who tuned in late..... 1275 rebuilt to 1400cc,9.75 : 1 Cr 643 cam, weber 45DCOE. Engine sat for 16 years after rebuild,started for the first time last july, 2000 miles since. Burns and leaks oil. Compression test results: Cold no plugs 195,205,200,205 Cold 3 plugs 205,203,195,192 Cold 3plugs oil 230,225,225,215 Hot compression test -no plugs 205,210,210,210 Hot 3 plugs 175,185,190,185 Hot 3 plugs oil 225,210,210,200 It was suggested that I switch to a vented oil filler cap to reduce smoking and it appears to have cut it down but did not stop it. Need to drive... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
"Aldon Distributors" Aldon did a PerTronix equipped 45D mechanical curve for my 8.3-1 motor, based upon a planned (Judson) 6psi boost curve. Less than $300 including shipping. Bill Perry got the dizzy. In checking it on a distributor machine, it did not match the written curve provided. Bill shipped the dizzy up to me in CT so Pete Sachs guys could check it out on their machine(s). Sure enough....wrong curve. Shipped it back to Aldon after trading e-mails. Returned in a heartbeat with the "correct" curve...Aldon paid all shipping costs (by Air..both ways). Morals: 1.Check this part as you... MORE
George, I have not followed this entire thread, but see you original message included. If my suggestion has already been mentioned, then never mind. The besta way to sort out the source of the problem is a leak-down test. This requires compressed are and a special set of gauges that will compare the pressure in with the pressure out. A difference of 10 percent or more indicates a problem. It will also tell you the source of the leak by listening to where the air is escaping, (valves rings, head gasket, etc.) One thing that sometimes causes your symptoms,... MORE
Actually this does sound like a seized compressor, Did you get the oil changed with the gas? , AC systems MUST have a certain amount of oil in them, and if they have been leaking gas you can put money on some of the oil having leaked out as well, if this was not replaced when the system was regassed then you can bet the compressor is now FUBAR internally. try reaching down and turning the compressor by hand (engine off car not running), it should if it's OK be easy to turn the end of the compressor, if... MORE
George... I think you have three problems: 1.The intake manifold mounted PCV system uses the vented/filtered oil filler cap to provide for incoming air. 2. The most effective crankcase scavenging consists of a feed to the PCV valve from below the pistons. 3. The "cover" to the old mechanical fuel pump fitting on the forward left side of the block just above the flange can be used as a "source" for relieving lower crankcase vapor/pressure in place of the old takeoff on the stock timing case cover which no longer exists, in consideration of your new timing cover set-up... MORE
News article today mentions the temperature in Basra is 62C - 138F. Apparently at that temperature they have to turn off the A/C on the troop carriers because the engine overheats with the extra load. Guy "Guy Weller" 24293... MORE
George, Are the rocker shaft and rocker bushings in good condition? If it looses too much oil from the shaft, then it will flood the valve guides and draw oild through to into the ports Guy "Guy Weller" 24292... MORE
Simultaneous smoking exhaust and leaking can be caused by build up of crankcase pressure. The A-series doesn't have a real rear crank seal, and even a slight positive crankcase pressure will cause it to leak, maybe lots. The same for exhaust smoke. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the opening to close it off. You should feel a slight vacuum - not a lot, maybe, but enough to feel. Increase engine speed and feel that too. If you feel pressure, even slight, that's a problem. New rings and 200+ psi sounds... MORE
A friend (non-computer type) has a problem with his odometer ... I mentioned the "collective brillance" of the list, and he asked for help. The odometer has stopped working on his bugeye. The speedometer is original equipment and works just fine, his odometer just stopped working suddenly. Since he uses the odometer to decide when to get gas (he trusts it more than his gas gauge), he really wants to repair it. Any ideas or suggestions? He would prefer to repair himself (very mechanical guy), but will replace if necessary. Thanks for any suggestions. Jim Rogers San Juan Capistrano,... MORE
My 1400cc engine which sat for a number of years after being built smokes. Between burning and leaking it goes through a quart every 200 miles or so. I've done a hot compression check and get 205, 210,210 and 210. (compression ration is 9.75:1). My thinking is that the problem is in the head, valve stem seals or guides, or with the rocker arm shaft, based on the consistent compression readings. I remember someone saying that even with good compression the problem could be bad oil control rings. Thoughts, comments, suggested diagnostic tests, would be appreciated. Thanks "george07876" 24254... MORE
there was no charcoal canister on any UK cars - the tank just vents through a hole in the filler cap, and if there's enough fuel in, it will come out the same hole, especially if the car's parked at the wrong angle. David "David Jacobs" 24249... MORE
"There are no charcoal cannisters on UK '77 Midgets" OK...no closed loop fuel system...so much for that. Nigel...I think you are right! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24264... MORE
wow.... 210? seems high for only 9.75:1 regardless.... Did you properly break in the engine before it sat all that time? Rings could simply not be seated yet.... and with that kind of compression, yes the 'blow-by' alone could blow that much oil out very easily. Seriously.... do you have a breather recirculation system? (crank fumes returned to the intake?) If so I'll bet the backs of the intake valves are already a nasty mess of oil sludge. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24260... MORE
Cap'n Well we've just broken the all time highest temperature ever recorded in this country at 37.9 degree's c, which as it happens was recorded at Heathrow airport, 30 mins down the road from me! So I suspect these extreme temperatures are having an effect on that fuel expansion. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24241... MORE
Wow!! El warmo!! Let's see...that would be about 100F (which is warm enough, mind you!). In summer, it gets warmer in our Southern states such as Texas, where our fellow lister Brad Fornal is located. The American Airlines training center is located in Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas and I've been down their when it gets to 104-106 on a sunny day during their hot spells. But I suspect you are correct, Nigel, in your assumption...really, for this truly "hot". I don't know how Heathrow authorities measure their temperature but I assume it is "free air". It would be warmer on... MORE
I don't know whether this is relevant or not, but It's another very hot day here today - mid 30's and walking back from the paper shop I noticed a Ford Ka leaking fuel from the filler area - it was clearly oozing out. So I guess if you've recently filled the tank up, the heat will cause the fuel to expand enough to start leaking. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24236... MORE
