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How can you test and see if the PCV diaphragm is good? I have two, one I KNOW will allow the car to smoke, when I gently blow on the tube that connects to the oil separator, it passes air out of the hole on the top plate. Another one that I just got, when I gently blow in the same orifice, it makes a sound like a quacking duck. Does either one of these sound like they are ok? I finally have the correct intake for the 68, as well as all the smog stuff. Call me paranoid,... MORE
Can anyone offer tips on how to clean Braided SS fuel lines without damaging the inner core. I'd like to bring back their original shine if possible. Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB Jim Crowder 30794... MORE
Hi all I have just received an excellent Spridget catalogue from MOSS that not only lists all of their parts but is also a tuning guide as well. In there they recommend that for modern driving a 1500 would really benefit from a thermostatically controlled oil cooler, uprated relief spring and a supplementary rocker oil feed kit. This is apparently due to the Spitfire engine being mated to the "wrong gearbox" and subsequent over revving leading to the oil thinning and thus pressure dropping. As I am not flogging mine down the motorway at 80mph all day is this... MORE
James... Anything you can do to "cool" a motor which is otherwise running at a normal temperature extends service life. Yesterday's petroleum oils got by on viscosity more than film strength. Today they get by on both, more or less, while synthetics go more with film strength than viscosity for superior lubrication, inclusive of their ability to maintain superior film strength at higher operation temperature than the most modern of petroleums. Oil which is "overcooled" does not perform as well as oil running at "proper" temperature...thus the oilstat. However, one must monitor the oilstat for proper operation and thus,... MORE
Don't know where those power outputs came from but they are severely wrong! Lowest power output for the Rover 3.5 litre V8 was 91 BHP in landrover Stage one form. P6/P5 form it was 184 BHP, (5 * 105 octane fuel) Late P6 and early SD1 it was 160 SD1 Vitesse and VDP EFi were 190 SD1 twin Plenum form 220 Range Rover/ MGB GT V8 130. Prior to rovers development it only revved to 4500 after it was safe to 5500 The Twin Plenum SD1 Vitesse was also the car that wiped BMW out on the race tracks... MORE
I was thinking of some sort of adhesive from a caulk gun. You know... the tar type stuff. Anyway, let me know how the Morrisevice kit works for you. I used the Rivergate, and had no complaints. I have yet to get my speedo setup because I'm still trying to decide on a tire size. "Trevor Jessie" 30757... MORE
Hi Kevin Welcome to the group. This group is for all 'Spridgets' and many here are Frog owners, but you may like to try the other group specifically for Frogs - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bugeye/ Yeah I don't know why those nutty Americans call them Bugeye's either ;) You may also want to check out Terry Horler's excellent book - Original Sprite and Midget, published by Bay View Books, ISBN 1-870979-45-1 This book has an excellent restorers section on Frogeyes and many of your answers will be found there. I'm not an expert on Frog's - there's many here you know a... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
How is it done? I have read the method in the Haynes, and I am not certain any of the 4 bolts on each side will survive being taken off! or even if they will come undone at all. tried one and it sheared immediately, another is just turning and it looks nearly impossible to get a spanner of the upper side of it on the inner two bolts. The inner two wishbone pins are loose which is to be expected after years of being covered with oil and grease. 4.5 inch bolts threaded all the way seem a... MORE
Oil "justbrits" 30680... MORE
Guys! Instead of using the old type paper gaskets you should try a gasket on tube that is fantstic, its made by Loctite and is called Black Tite. This is a rubber silicone gasket that never hardens and lasts for a life time. You will never see a drop of oil again. Jens And yes the wheel cylinders should have a paper gasket. I have too many of those now, Nigel "jens maudal" 30635... MORE
Chris Thank's for your input. Yes, I can imagine 1/4" steel pipe is a pain to bend, the 3/16" cupro/nickel was bad enough! I trace the route of the pipe with some string, including all the bends and then add about 6 inches, and cut that length, I still usually have to trim that back to fit, so no problems on lengths. Thanks for the tip on the autojumbles, but its not really an option - I simply don't have the time to trawl around atuojumbles right now - I just want to get on and get the car... MORE
Mark, Mine wasn't a new pump, at least it was about 5 years old. I found out by swapping parts out., after I had checked all of the carb settings etc. When I changed the pump the problem was cured. Since the old pump still seemed to push fuel through I got inquisitive and dismantled it to see how it worked, Sure enough, there was a short tear in the diaphragm. Bit like someone with a fault heart valve, it pumped well enough until it was asked to run uphill. Guy "Guy Weller" 30592... MORE
That can be very frustrating, paying good money for a new pump, that should last at least ten years only to have it fail due to sloppy manufactoring. Not to mention the time spent trying to find the problem. How did you determine it was your fuel pump? Mark PS if we are going to be sent defective parts can we pay them with defective dollars? "MARK" 30591... MORE
Mark, I see that you gave it a new fuel pump but it does sound like the exact same symptoms I got on my 1500 when the diaphragm in the fuel pump was split. It appeared to pump normally, but on full throttle inclines it would go fine for a few hundred yards and then begin to miss and splutter untill I backed off a bit. Guy "Guy Weller" 30589... MORE
So Chris, are you saying when troubleshooting a problem such as this never assume just because it is new it is ok? I am more likely to look at something I have not explored yet (i.e float bowl sediment) and if still unresolved will go back and recheck previous work and parts. But your point is well taken. I did not think the fuel pump or filter as likely since I could drive on flat and slight grades, and normal acceleration with no issues. but will leave no stone unturned. I am also not familar with the su carbs,... MORE
I've also recently had no end of problems with new electrical items failing after only about a weeks service, coils, plug leads, dizzy caps, rotor arms condensors etc across a whole range of classic cars Regards Chris Valentine Dunlop Motorsport David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the... MORE
David, Capn Bob also suggested the same things, the only area I have not looked at since I got this midget is float bowls. I change the fuel pump six months ago and the fuel filter one month back. I know the issues with getting the correct fuel pump, mine came from moss motors for a midget. Checking the float bowls for sediment sounds like a great place to look. I will post the final solution when it is resolved. Thanks for the advice. Mark "MARK" 30579... MORE
gave it new plugs wires, cap & rotor, new fuel pump about six months ago and fuel filter one month ago. Guess there is a lot of areas to rule in & out. Thanks for the input. Sunday was a nice day, with the top down we enjoyed driving around the lake, only bummer to the day was going up the one grade. later, Mark "MARK" 30577... MORE
Loopy Chris says .Not quite sure if I can get the ariel lead underneath the car as I think( could be totally wrong though and I've got the wrong end of the stick!) to be legal in this country, it has to be a certain distance ( im talking a fair space here , not a couple of inches) from any fuel tank or line , in case it causes a spark or something. Chris, Put some old jeans on and look under you car at the back. Look just in fron t of the fuel tank and you... MORE
No kidding, Jens? They are making fuel piping in plastic, now? This is good to know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30608... MORE
Hi guys I'm at the stage now where I'm about to fit the fuel line to the Midget. The brake lines have been done in 3/16" cupro/nickel alloy and I was going to do the fuel line in this as well, but having just seen the price of a 25' roll of 1/4" cupro/nickel pipe =A333 ($60) of which I'll probably only use about 6 or 7 feet of seems a bit excessive! Specially when 25' roll of 1/4" steel pipe is only =A310 ($18). Any thoughts? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30569... MORE
Mark... Running rough can mean anything, so not really enough to go on. Usually an engine which runs "rough" under load is either overadvanced in terms of ignition or suffering from an ignition system which requires attention in that the spark is breaking down under load. This could be a bad coil, wires, cap or any other individual component not quite up to snuff. It could also be a combination of worn items, as well. Lastly, there is the fuel supply. Float levels set too low, inadequate pressure (old or bad pump) or inadequate supply (clogged filter, line or... MORE
Does the truck have an electric fuel pump? You could try disconnecting the fuel line after the pump and emptying the tank that way. Be careful if it's got fuel injection - the pumps run at quite a high pressure compared to 'our' cars. Alternatively, you could syphon it out. Regards David "David Jacobs" 30553... MORE
