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Last week I went to Pep Boys and got the oil filter that they said was the right one. It turned out to be the wrong one. What oil filter should I use on my 1979 MG Midget. "fireburner03" 36222... MORE
MiniMania carries an adaptor for different cam/oil pump drives that will allow compatibility. Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36159... MORE
The 1275 cam has a different oil pump driving dog ('spider' drive) compared with the 1098 (pin or slot drive - I can never remember which) You could use the appropriate oil pump for the cam, but then the pump mounting holes might be in the wrong place, as they moved around over the years, so you'd have to drill and tap the block to fit it. In the end, it's easier to use a proper 1275 cam. But make sure you have the spider in place between the cam and oil pump - if you don't, you'll never... MORE
Sure you can use a generic fuel pump. All the car parts stores sell them for about $30. I wouldn't use nylon fuel lines. What reason could there ne not to use metal ones? As far as using the cam from your 1098 - why? It's probably worn some, so why not just go for a new one, say a Kent 256 or 266. You'll get improved performance, and they aren't very expensive. Be certain to use new lifters. Why do you need new rockers? The old ones can be rebushed easily. "joe blxfstz" 36151... MORE
No, Ed. It's not a myth. I am an electrochemist, and I've made my living in that field since 1964. I've published articles in peer reviewed journals, and I am certified by the American Electroplater's and Surface Finisher's Society. I have served on ASTM panels writing recommended metal finishing practices, and I am certified to give legal testimony as an expert witness in this field. Here's a quickie explanation. In order to oxidize metals, a positive ion has to form, that is Fe has to convert to Fe+2 in order to form iron oxide (rust). When you impose a... MORE
From: David Jacobs [mailto: mail@... ] Sent: 10 February 2005 22:43 To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Gauge regulators yes they do, to provide a regulated output to make the fuel gauge read something like correctly. David "G & J Swann-Price" 36047... MORE
yes they do, to provide a regulated output to make the fuel gauge read something like correctly. David "David Jacobs" 36043... MORE
Do our cars really need a gauge regulator, and if so why? Cheers, -Drew "Drew Griffith" 36040... MORE
"Location of timing marks, etc." Exactly....A humungous, giant PITA if there ever was one. Why would it have been designed this way??? I just don't get it. One of the main reasons I "lost" the points and went electronic (set it, forget it). What did they figure??? You'd have it up on a lift changing the oil so this would be a convenient place at that time, or what?? A pox upon the designer!! Cap'n Bob (Timing marks relocated) '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35992... MORE
I was a member over a year ago and had to drop out. Well I'm back and this time I need to seel my 1973 Midget. If anyone is close to Las Vegas and wants it, it's going cheap at $750. I need to sell it due to my retiring from the Air Force and moving back to Louisiana. Here is what I have in it: It runs good (28+ miles per gallon in town) 5 new tires with less than 2000 miles 3 year old top no broken glass Vynil coverd seats Cassete radio (not installed) Weber carb... MORE
'cause it takes a little time for the oil leaking from the running motor to drip upon the clutch lining? Or is the clutch "slipping" very slightly and the lining getting hot accordingly after a little time driving? Smell anything burning? Which are the only things I can think of 'cause the problem doesn't reveal itself initially when all is "cold" and all is apparently well 'til it's driven a while. Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35876... MORE
Dear Virgil and all, I have a block. I am not sure what it is but I am sure those on the list can tell me. It is very available in San Diego. Here is the hard part, get ready to laugh at me or yell names etc. It had been setting out in the rain for god knows how many years. There is surface rust inside and outside. The rust is not bad but it looks like hell. I am sure sand blasting or hot tanking it would make it ok. It has a pan, quite a bit... MORE
Chuck...do not be mislead by compression ratios which could be had back when leaded ("manly") octanes were available . Today's unleaded "garbage" octanes require a little more thought in this di rection, assuming a cast iron head and the ignition advance curve you're probably working with, along with a "mild" cam with relatively little duration which will favor maximum "trapping" of the combustion gases in favor of the low end of the useable rpm spectrum (torque.. as in street application). With aluminum heads you can go about a point higher than with cast iron, all else being equal. Also,... MORE
Nology Hotwires.... exactly, Spencer...without 3rd party empirical data, I don't tend to "believe" either. if Vizard hadn't tested them, I wouldn't have spent the bucks....they're not inexpensive. But they do last a long, long time. They are very well built and I can tell you from experience they will burn off oil on spark plug tips, even in engines burning a quart every in <500 miles. You'll still get crusty brown carbon deposits that will eventually fill the gap and "short", but you won't be getting wet oil fouling at all, assuming compression is reasonably decent. Cap'n Bob '60... MORE
Hey cap'n Bob, I saw the Nology guys at a M/C show and they had this great display which showed a nice bright spark. Much brighter than the spark in the carbon core setup next to it. But they had no Technical backup other than this will incrase your HP, Torque, Fuel Economy etc. I guess I'm just a Cynic. But Mr Vizzard...I'd trust his judgment. -Spence "spencer_baker" 35612... MORE
Jim... most people convert their points ign. system to electronic Crane, PerTronix (Lucas/Aldon "Ignitor") to get away from the maintenance schedule which must be followed to retain the intial efficiency of the stock points system when new points are installed and concurrently, dwell and timing are accurately set. For as you know, as the points wear, dwell and timing change. Thus, every 3k miles or so, resetting these values is the only way to maintain original efficiency of the points type system. Simply converting to the foregoing electronic systems while maintaining the otherwise stock coil does away with the... MORE
The "longer" spark is supposed to lead to more complete combustion of the fuel/air mix which should be better for power and/or economy along with fewer emissions. Of course, for the "longer" spark, you need more "juice" to begin with..... :) Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35606... MORE
Ken, If you use a catch can, and run any hoses up vertically for any distance at all, I don't think you need any baffles. Any oil that pukes out will end up on the sides of the hose and run back down into the crankcase unless there is such a rush of air out of there to carry it into the tank. I think don't worry about it. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 35534... MORE
Mitch..IMHO.... if you are going to use the Judson, I would call APT and source the best quality valve they have to offer. Otherwise, unless you've got a hairy cam in there or are running 10.0-1 or a higher static compression ratio, standard quality/design should be fine normally aspirated. About oversized exhaust valves....many moons ago when the first 1275 Cooper S types came out, they went with a larger 1.4 intake valve and subsequently, went to a larger than stock exh.valve to "match", feeling this would give more powe r. It didn't. What it did do was lead to... MORE
Welcome aboard, Jim... You've already recieved good answers to your questions so no need to further "go there" with one exception.... 145x13's can be hard to find these days, though your local Sears probably has them. 155X13's are easier to source (Town Fair and most others stock them) and will do just as well, while giving even better grip and fuel economy all else being equal (fewer revs per mile per hour) without nearly a gnat's eye change in ride quality. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33627... MORE
Ah....I percieve, Jens! What they've provided is basically their road "performance" curve contained in their "Y" (yellow) commercially available dizzies. The chart they included is the actual advance curve contained within the distributor. This would be in "distributor degrees" Jens, at "distributor rpm". Double the figures in each case for engine rpm and advance available at the crank. Then add in the initial static timing recommendation (4-6 degrees) to the foregoing figures and you'll know how many degrees you are getting at the crank at any rpm, per their "static" timing recommendation. Now, the above is for academic interest... MORE
Thank you Bob Still not sure what to look for. I have been visiting the main Marine Supply Stores'sites, but have not seen anything that can be used for this purpose. Anyway, the problem is solved now. I used an ordinary grease pump, filled some oil into it, pumped a few stroke in order to get out the remaining grease, and voila, I managed to get the necessary amount of EP 90 oil into the steering rack. Jan Erik "jmaalen" 33524... MORE
Thanks for all the comments. Everyone was pretty musch right - it's the oil filter sensor wire and dash warning light. We had replaced thar damend old oil filter housing with a new spin-on and lost the reference. No sooner had I posted this message and ran back to the garage, my Dad figured it out. I'll be asking you guys soon for ideas on transporting the ol' A-H from El Paso to Dallas TX. We're just staring tomake plans, and so far folks like Uhaul haven't been very helpful (the A-H is too narrow for their auto transport).... MORE
OH!!!! I just re-read your post, Jens. Sorry!!! You've already answered Guy's question on the correct oil filler cap. Apologies! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33520... MORE
Jens.... What, pray tell, are you waiting for? Install the oil pressure limiting valve NOW and you will answer your own question! :) The answer is probably yes. And MAYBE it will also solve that puff of smoke you get out the exhaust after driving from cold a mile or so down the road? But have you changed to a fresh rubber diaphragm within the valve? And don't tell me the valve is new so you don't have to!!! :) Are you (per Guy's post) using the filtered plastic oil filler cap as well? Higher than required oil pressure... MORE
