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Hi guys I'm just getting ready to put the fuel tank back on and on inspecting the fuel feed pipe that goes into the tank itself, I noticed it was pretty corroded and on inspection (er read bending) it broke! No big deal I suspected it was corroded beyond service I just wanted it confirmed! The pipe nut on the end look to be pretty serviceable as does the nipple/flare on the end of the pipe. Question - how is that nipple/flare attached to the pipe? Is it brazed on? glued? compression fitting? Can I reuse it or do... MORE
The correct adhesive to glue perspex is Tensol 70, manufactured by ICI. It has a hardener which has to be added in the correct proportions. (easily done by weight, with accurate scales) After gluing, and allowing to set for 24 hours, it should be heated to 80 degrees C for about four hours, to harden the glue and normalise the acrylic, and prevent crazeing. Other 'one part' glues that you can buy as liquids are based on dichloromethane, probably with acryic chips disolved in it. The trouble with this type of adhesive is that it is very agressive and... MORE
Hi All. Well, we replaced the Master cylinder AND the slave cylinder, got the clutch bled and viola! ....the car ran like a well oiled top:) I had so much fun running around in it for 2 days...right up until I met with the local British Automotive club for a run...and it died on me in a parking lot. Damn! The fuel pump went out. We bought a new fuel pump today and I'll be up and running again in no time. The GOOD news, is that pretty soon I'll have replaced every part in the car and it... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
"We are in the process of relocating.... sporadic cell service" Ah...a "serious" matter, then. I'd go with Biff Jones idea for sure. A second distributor...all set up, spare spark plugs, spare fan belt, and a length of spare hose and ignition wire, spare fuel pump, and necessary small bag of tools. The all important flashlite of course and a portable starter/charger as well if you're really out there in the sticks. Of course... what will serve you best is a quality scheduled, preventive maintenance program (and the "right attitude" towards being "situationally aware" in terms of survival in the... MORE
How much difference was there between the two wrenches? If the surfaces are flat and undamaged, it shouldn't need a huge clamping pressure to keep 'em oil tight. David "David Jacobs" 32875... MORE
FINALLY getting enough strength in my arms again to work on the car. Pulled ligament in right shoulder, and tennis elbow on left arm pretty much decimated my sex life. Um wait, that is another e group. Anyway, I think I have found the root cause of my oil problem. I put the head on, torque it down with my trusty Taiwanese click wrench to 42 pounds. They final torque at 50, so for shits and giggles, I got my $5 flea market Craftsman beam wrench. Believe it or not, my Taiwanese wrench was not torquing as tight as... MORE
Martyn... I understand you're being a little tired of having to replace, set dwell and adjust timing periodically, when an electronic conversion basically eliminates this chore. The good thing about points is that when the system needs attention, it usually warns you by a progressive fall-off in performance. An electronic conversion is usually "on" or "off" in terms of failure... usually no warning. And of course, don't forget the dizzy needs a few drops of oil every now and then! The forgoing having been said, I've used Crane "700" and "3000" units up until a couple of years ago,... MORE
Yep.... You got it big guy!!!! Of course, this assumes a reasonably healthy engine pulling decent vacuum. TWO CAVEATS.... 1) If the engine's clapped out and is pullin' lousy vacuum, the pistons will never "top out", spring tension and fully open butterflies notwithstanding and thus....it follows, that.... 2) the entire induction system has got to be "air tight" as well. You don't need a midget under the hood. You need an SU carb tool kit!!! It comes with a little jet centering tool along with "rods" you place within the piston tubes which temporarily take the place of the... MORE
They are a real challenge! I have removed serveral this way: Soak (and I mean SOAK) the bolts with penetrating oil for a day or two. Put the nut back on the bolt and turn until the end of the bolt and the nut are even. Get a BIG hammer and hit the end of the bolt hard! After a few hits it will begin to move. You will have to use a punch to finish the job. The rear ones are harder because you can't get a good swing with the hammer. Just keep working on them. Although... MORE
Rob, That helps. So let me get more clear. The spring rate (color) determines how high the piston will rise in relation to redline under load, for example if it will not reach the top under load or it reaches the top way before red line under load, it is a function of the spring/color and how fast the piston reacts (not how high it goes) is a function of the viscosity of the oil in the damper. Is that close? Now all we need is a midget to curl up in the engine bay and peer into the... MORE
Guys... Can't help but believe we are losing something in the translation, here. A faster rising of the piston (as Duncan points out) can be counterproducive to acceleration in terms of low end torque not only because of the "ramming affect" of a "smaller" venturi at the low end, but also because of the "leaning out" of the mixture on acceleration caused by "too great a rate". The thing is, the "proper weight" oil is "correct" for "rate of rise" in accordance with the maker's design of the application to begin with. The spring controls wherein the needle will... MORE
I have a late model Midget, and haven't been able to locate a hot air hose (the hose that connects from under the manifold to the air temp control valve (refer to Haynes p 101, item #16). VB and Moss have them displayed, but not available for sale. Does anyone out there have one that they are willing to part with? Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32726... MORE
Don't get confused, Jens. The butterflies must fully open when the accelerater pedal goes fully down. This is mechanical matter. The pistons (air valves) must not reach their full upward travel prior to redline (or reasonably thereabouts). If they do, you require a stronger spring. Probably yellow is next. Aldon would know the different spring rates/colors. The weight of the oil determines the piston's rise RATE. The engine is being revved under no load circumstances. Thus, the butterflies will not require much opening in order to allow the motor to reach it's redline under this no-load condition. Cap'n. Bob... MORE
I just opened my SU book and it calls it the piston and the butterfly close to the head is called the throttle valve. The piston is more of a variable venture and the butterfly is more of a valve that turns on and off the air/fuel flow. FYI, Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 32714... MORE
The Purpose of Tools HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing leather goods. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on... MORE
I have recently acquired a 'new, old stock' crankshaft rear oil-seal kit for an A-series engine, but it did not come with any fitting instructions. Although it looks fairly simple, I want to make sure that everything is fitted correctly, so I wondered if anyone has fitted this kit and still has the fitting instructions? If so, would it be possible to scan or otherwise reproduce? All replies welcome. Thanks in advance Dave "daveo138" 32688... MORE
What are the lengths of the two hoses that run between the oil cooler and the block/filter on a 73 Midget with a 1275? Moss Motors informed me yesterday that they sell these hoses as individual lengths only. I don't have a set to measure. Thanks for your help, Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "Jim Crowder" 32649... MORE
Rich... Your fuel pressure setting is correct. There is some falling off in pressure between pump and carb. I've been using low pressure (2.5-4.0) Facets for many moons now with stock float valves...no problems. Same with previous Vizardized Series A with 90hp to rear wheels and Weber "45" except pump was Facet 6psi or so through 2.5 pressure regulator. Stock float valves in this case also. No problems. What pressure does your pump initially put out? What "color" would appear on a NEW set of spark plugs on your car after a hard run, preferably up a reasonably sloped... MORE
I am hoping someone can help me with a problem I have obtaining a key set for my 1971 Midget. I purchased a lock set consisting of the two doors and boot lock, all with matching FS keys. I am now trying to purchase either just the lock barrel or the complete ignition switch (located in the middle of the dashboard) with the same FS key number as the doors. I have spoken to most of the suppliers such as Moss, Brown & Gammons etc. but none will sell me the ignition barrel with a specific key number. I... MORE
I thought 1.5-2 psi was optimal for the SUs and anything more would be a problem (of course every car has its own quirks). I have my regulator set around 2 psi (WAG). However by my seat of the pants I have a funny feeling that during high speed extended runs it "feels" like it stumbles just a bit. I haven't tried bumping up the pressure just yet. I am thinking fuel starvation due to slightly to pressure being a bit low. When I first installed and set the regulator it was way too low and the rear carb... MORE
Cap'n Bob Good news! I installed a new OP switch, filter and new oil. Took the car out on a good 45 min run and no warning light. What a relief. So far, so good. Was happy to hear Jens made out well too with his pressure issues. Thanks for the encouragement. Mike mk2sprite@... 32605... MORE
Don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but older grosse jets worked quite well. However, newer ones for some reason don't stand up to their reputation.I tossed three of them from my triple-carbed big Healey when I found the "two balls" were sticking and not shutting off the fuel flow. Rick HealeyRic2@... 32607... MORE
Martyn... The SU pump pressure is pre-set (though it may be adjustable...I dunno!:) and comes "fully compatible" for SU carbs. This having been said, it's possible to get a "bad" new part....a "lemon", if you will. Test it with a fuel pressure gauge. If it's putting out more than 3.5-4.0 psi, it's got a problem. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32601... MORE
The fuel pump is a new SU one so I would assume that it is set for SU carbs. Is the pressure adjustable or do I have to use an external regulator?. The needles hold pressure until the engine is started and the it starts overflowing. I've order some standard jets to replace the Grose ones. Martyn meastwood1@... 32599... MORE
