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On the unit I have there are three bend over metal tabs holding the case sections together. Carefully bend them up to pull the unit apart. There may be some resistance at the float shaft end that looks like a slotted screw to pass through the hole, a little cleaning there and you can pull the case apart enough to remove the brass spring. I also rubbed the ends of the spring on fine sand paper and cleaned the case surface around the shaft hole where the spring contacts the case and the surfaces of the round bushing next... MORE
Nigel, Most guages that are wired are nothing but "volt meters" re marked to read temperature, tank levels. They are powered by the car electrical system through some for of a potentiometer. In a 12 volt system, full voltage is sent to the potentiometer, and depending on the design of the "pot" the voltage supplied will be increased or decreased as the potentiometer actuator is moved (via float in a fuel tank sending unit). You should be able to attache the leads of a volt meter to one wire from the guage and the other to chassis ground and... MORE
Nigel, Set the multimeter to resistance and connect one lead to the metal flange of the sender unit and one to the wiring spade. As you raise and lower the float there should be a smooth increase and decrease in resistance reading. Sorry, I forget what the normal resistance reading is bit if the resistance reading varies smoothly then the sender unit is most likely fine. If the unit has been sitting for a long time you may have to exercise it some to break up any oxidation on the surface of the wire wound resistance strip inside the... MORE
Hey does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be coming out of the fuel pump on a 1978 1500 midget? Mine is 5 1/2 pounds. When I drive over 3500 RPM's / 60-65 MPH the gas goes to the front charcoal canister, fills it and chokes out the carb. I take off the bottom hose, drain and ok for another 20 miles. We tried everything and it still happens. I was thinking maybe the pressure is too high. Any thoughts. Joe Blitz Rochester NY "Joe Bellizia" 23147... MORE
Hi everyone Things have not gone quite to plan... My intended midget has been ditched. I was going to pay a fair bit for it, and having spoken to several people (including a guy from the MG Car Club's Midget Register) should have got a good car for my money. On further inspection, the one I was going to have had a mileometer that didn't move, doors that didn't lock, an oil leak, VIN number that didn't match the documents and so on, so I've hung on to my cash and will keep looking for a car slightly nearer... MORE
G'day guys Don't complain about the weather. You could be having an "English Summer" - where the ambient temperature is 1 degree above body temperature. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 23053... MORE
Hi, Brad.... The size and design of the instrument is exactly what I do not know with respect to the 1500, Brad. Wimpy may find himself in a position where he will have change both speedo and tach for the sake of matched appearance. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23058... MORE
Wimpy... Ahh..you are waiting for the camber kit... I perceive!! :) I do not know about the speedo, though... the technicians at: www.nisonger.com may be able to help you out from a gauge point of view unless any other listers out there have an ideas on this? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23056... MORE
Wimpy.... There are 1500 owners who would very much like to be in your shoes with your 1275 driveline set-up, believe me!! When YOUR transmission goes, you can at least exchange it for the readily available, easily installable Datsun 210 conversion for about what it costs for a rebuilt British ribcase at today's prices. AND, you have the benefit of already having the higher geared 3.7 diff. as well (most likely) which came stock in the later 1500 Spridgfires. Which is a good thing considering the first 3 ratios for the 210 gearbox are slightly lower than those in... MORE
I have a 74 MG Midget, I already know it's been pieced together from SEVERAL different year cars, but I have run all the wires down and come up with two that have no where to go. One is Blue with a female connector on it, the other is Green/Purple with a male connector on it. I have checked the wiring diagrams in the Hayes manual and another English manual (it's red can't think of who it's by) and neither of them show these wires. There are two possibilities in my mind, one being horns (none installed) the other... MORE
Could be a pressure switch to connect to a light on the dashboard which tells you when the filter gets clogged. You probably deserve what you get if you leave the oil that long perhaps ............ I have a '66 and it has one of those. On the other hand ... OTHERS probably know better R. "Roger Stinson" 22988... MORE
Nelson I think it is for the blocked filter warning light ( the red light just above the oil pressure gauge ). A 62 Sprite should have this light the later cars do not so a spin on filter head from a later car will not have this connection but I guess an adapter for use on an earlier car should. Hope this helps Dave "David Dixon" 22986... MORE
I just purchased a used spin-on oil filter adapter and have a question about it. On the top there is a push on electrical connector and I am curious as to what it is used for. I'm guessing that it is connected to the on-board computer in newer versions of the LBC's and would tell the driver that the oil is dirty and it is time to change it. LOL Nelson '62 Mk 2 Sprite "witstock7" 22985... MORE
midgetSpriter's, I've been trawling the lists for an answer to what seems to be an eternal struggle of getting my Standard Block 1275cc Midget (1970) to run in a reasonable fashion. I've read with interest a number of suggestions and am even more confused as to what the right thing to do in regard to getting this car to run with todays fuels. I've tried the full complement of fuels and am currently running with Premium Unleaded. The engine has been recently rebuilt with the addition of hardened valve seats so I guess I should at least have some... MORE
90w GEAR OIL. "Jeffrey Holmes" 22813... MORE
I picked up a nice fuel pump there 25.00 buck "Jason Gross" 22819... MORE
Actually, Bob... Number of carbs notwithstanding, it's probably the same system they used on the single carbed '75, slightly modified for the different engine and/or single carb. set-up and/or closed loop fuel system. However, your input gives us the reason for the compression fitting in the first place...I was not at all sure how it figured into the system, as you may have guessed! And while I do not recall it being a part of the emissions stuff I pulled off my previously owned '74, most likely it was there, in the same place as Don May finds it... MORE
Hi, Don... Well, I have to admit I am doing most of this from memory of what I had on my po'd '74.....this was like 20+ years ago!! Naturally, when I looked at all that stuff cluttering up the engine compartment, I barfed! Then I took it all off, cut the restrictors on the carbs, got a ventilated/ filtered oil filler cap and set up a "ventilated" rather than "evacuated" system. But as Gerard and many others have correctly pointed out, a properly working PCV system is a "good thing" in more than one respect. Yes...the engine breathes in... MORE
Hi Bob, The restrictor inserted in the hose from the oil separator is a modification and not a stock part rather a jerry rig piece of a standard plumbing compression fitting he used to restrict the line, so it was not an official California set up. All I know to do is return it to the direct hose and see how it runs. Although curiosity leads me to wonder why he did it. If I recall correctly in 74 model year the pancake looking PVC valve on top the intake manifold was deleted and the Y connector to the... MORE
Morning Bob, So the collected fumes in the charcoal canister are fed back into the system via the hose to the head cover. It appears there is no collection ports from the fuel bowls on the carburetors. So that would explain their being no hose from them to the canister. That leaves why the PO felt an additional restrictor was necessary, or desirable, in the oil separator to carburetors hose. It was my understanding that as you say "The input fittings within the carbs are in themselves graduated orifices." Think I will take the additional restrictor he inserted out... MORE
Hi, Don May... 1. The missing hose from the carb. to the charcoal cannister MAY be for the fuel bowls with respect to an "anti- runon" valve feature. This is a guess on my part. What this did was create a vacuum at the fuel bowls when oil pressure fell to zero through a solenoid switch when the ignition was switched off. The fuel bowls were vented to the charcoal cannister as part of the closed loop fuel system. The solenoid switch was wired "hot" which is why the PO MAY have disconnected this. 2. The line off your... MORE
SUs are not without their own problems, especially if you get what would have been original fitment on a UK '78 - they have 'waxstat' devices which are supposed to give some temperature compensation to the mixture, by raising or lowering the jets, but they are a pain in the proverbial! David "David Jacobs" 22770... MORE
Once again faced with mystery PO modifications. These have to do with the emission controls. First, particularly on California cars, one must find a proper diagram of the system, something the weak of heart should not attempt from a Haynes Manual. The car in question is a 74 Midget I assume with a stock 1275 First discrepancy . . . The manual, if correct, shows a hose from the valve cover to one of three hose connections on top of the evaporation canister, check . . . that is there. Another hose goes to the gas tank vapor collection... MORE
"Waxstat" devici. I guess they came up with a better way of fuel temperature compensation in the HIF series....like they've got some sort of a fuel temperature sensitive "disc" in there which basically does the same thing? Even so, Vizard states the carb. has a tendency to intially run "lean" when you put your foot in it, after engine compartment temps. have gotten really hot....as in slow travel in heavy traffic, etc. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22772... MORE
Nelson... Easier job basically but.... the new Unipart and K&N spin-on filters (and I am sure, others as well) also have an anti-drainback feature which makes cold starts less "oil-less" for those very important initial few seconds after the engine fires....IOW, more immediate lubrication to the parts. Since it is advertised that 50% of engine wear over time ocurrs during the intial few seconds after a cold star...this alone makes the conversion worth consideration. As a matter of fact, this factor is normally one of the priorities for those who decide to convert to synthetic oils, as well.... Cap'n.... MORE
