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Correcto, James C.! The earlier Austin(?) racks used oil, the later (Spitfire?) racks used grease. I am not knowing when the changeover occurred but I am sure we will hear from more learned folk! :) You can use grease in the earlier racks, however, in cold weather, the steering will become more difficult in tight quarters. Skipping the "zerk" entirely, it is possible to reasonably fill each boot by undoing one of the clamps to the gaitor(s) and squirting in oil with an oil gun. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33518... MORE
Jens, Are you using the correct type of vented oil filler cap? Guy "Guy Weller" 33513... MORE
Hello Spridget Gurus How do I get gear oil into the grease nipple in the steering rack of my MKIII? I have seen from previous postings that one should use an oil gun. What is this, and where can I get one? Thanks in advance... Regards Jan Erik "jmaalen" 33510... MORE
OK, Doug... You indeed have the higher compression 8.9-1 motor. Thought so. And you've done a bit of good work on it already, obviously. Here again, assuming the motor has done 77k "untouched" up to this point in time, then yes....personally I would pull the pan and REPLACE all the bearings (and oil pump) as part of preventive ("downline") maintenance as seeing as the motor is already out of the car. I mean, what better opportunity? :) Your assessment of the oil pump location, etc. is correct, Doug. Easy job at this point and sure, I'd renew the front... MORE
G'day Vince Were does this yellow/brown wire start and finish. That would help determine what it is for. But I think Chris might be correct - it's the oil filter warning light. Inside the oil filter housing is a spring-loaded ball bearing. When the filter gets blocked (cos you haven't changed it for 17 years) the pressure causes the ball bearing to move against the spring thus opening a by-pass passage for the oil. On the outside of the filter housing is a spade terminal. Power runs from the ignition circuit, through the light bulb behind the red light... MORE
Folks, my Dad and I are trying to trace a lone yellow/brown(YN)wire. It's remained disconnected during the restore and has not affected any other electrical system (positive ground)or function. To be clear, this is not the brown/yellow (NY) wire to the alternator. We can't seem to find reference to the YN wire in the shop manual and have no reason to believe this is nothing but stock. Does anyone know where this goes? Also, we're trying to figure out the large, red-jeweled light (which is not the ignition light on the tach) located square in the upper middle of... MORE
"signal indicators.....LOUD audio reminder"?? What we really have here, is a "situational awareness" problem!! :):) Including this in your "cockpit scan" as you drive about the premisi is just part of normal piloting, Chris. It's like checking oil pressure, coolant temperature, rpm, "groundspeed", etc. from time to time, as you drive along. It's "multi-tasking" so to speak, though your attention is primarily directed toward what's happeing outside the window around you. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33466... MORE
Hi David, This is the type of rubber in o-rings needed for brake fluid applications: Ethylen propylene rubber (EPDM) Likely what you got was a butyl type. That won't resist brake fluid. Try going to a place that does air/oil cylinder servicing or an o-ring house. They're in big cities. Try the yellow pages. Might be a minimum sale problem or they may give it to you to get rid of you!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33455... MORE
For all you furiners (not Texicans), this should make you wish you were here.... A TEXAS BLESSING Bless this house, oh Lord, we cry. Please keep it cool in mid-July. Bless the walls where termites dine, while ants and roaches march in time. Bless our yard where spiders pass fire ant castles in the grass. Bless the garage, a home to please carpenter beetles, ticks and fleas. Bless the love bugs, two by two, the gnats and mosquitoes that feed on you. Millions of creatures that fly or crawl, in Texas, Lord, you've put them all!! But this is... MORE
Chris... There ARE disadvantages to "in trunk" mounting, no doubt about it. In both my past and current positions I have been trained to think worst case scenarios first and foremost. And I would not personally install a pump on the "inside" myself, for in event of accident, I personally would rather have it ALL "outside" the car, whether I had a "g" cutoff switch intalled or not. However....under normal circumstances, we are not talking the pressures of fuel injection. Leakage of any sort should be detected very quickly considering only pressboard separates the trunk from the cockpit and... MORE
That's the foolproof but difficult way; the easy way is to look for the stamped markings - either the ratio itself or the part number. I think this is on the outside of the casing for the diff assembly. The crownwheel (ring gear) and pinion sets are also marked with their own part number :- ATA 7326 and BTA 550 are the 4.2 diffs from early and late cars respectively. ATA 7266 and BTA 539 are the respective CWP sets BTA 1222 is the 3.9 diff, BTA1223 is the 3.9 CWP BTA 551 is the 3.7 diff from later... MORE
Jens...suggestion? Go out and purchase a simple Facet solid state electric fuel pump with it's own "incoming" filter. You want the low pressure one, around 3-4psi. Cut out a piece of rubber gasket to place between the pump/body and install it where the stock SU pump went (according to your Haynes manual or whatever you are using) in later cars. This pump will work with SU's just fine without a pressure regulator. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33377... MORE
"How much oil...PCV valve" Well, it's been a long time since I've used one in my "ventilated" motors but as I recall from my '67 MGB, they look pretty much soaked in oil under the rubber diaphragm. Perhaps somebody else can confirm this for me or let us know differently. I gotta go back 30 years for this one! Anyway, if the idle comes up a goodly amount when you remove the oil filler cap, all is well PCV-valvewise, Jens. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33342... MORE
Fellas! I just have to tell you this, its probably old news to most of you but anyway. As you know i have been having problems lately (yet again), the symtoms were many and hard to make out. Well today the ba***rd fouled again and wouldnt run properly just like it was running on only 3 cyl. We are now 110% certain that its the petrol causing it. What happens is when the engine has reached normal temprature and i stop (with engine running) or drive very slowly the temp rise very fast (15-20F) and the engine starts fouling.... MORE
Jens, Great, did you beat him? What kind of Porsche? You might try and do a test before doing a new fuel pump. Try and take 6 or 8 layers of kitchen aluminum foil, crumple it a bit so you have some air space between layers and wrap either the fuel pump and/or the exhaust pipe. You might try and go one step further and take a wet red shop rag and wrap the fuel pump first then wrap in layers of foil. You can also take one or two layers of beer can cut open and wire it... MORE
David - No, the engine isn't in the correct/final placement just yet, just got excited and had to show somebody. I was thinking I was going to have to cut a radiused notch in top of the crossmember, but playing around last night I have it a little closer to finalized, I raised the motor about 1" and brought it forward (about 5-1/2") so the pulley is about 1/2" back from the steering rack. I plan to modify the oil pan to a flattened roadracing type, so the pan can be tucked up into the chassis. Hope to do... MORE
Jens, If you "kick the PCV" it will leak oil. It needs that to prevent / minimise oil leaks, particularly from the rear crankshaft "seal" Are you using a vented oil filler cap? You should be, which allows entry of air to ventilate the crankcase. If you are using a sealed filler cap it could make it pull too much oil vapour through Guy "Guy Weller" 33290... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
Guys - I know this was discussed a while back, but what is the stock body height of a Midget? Was looking for the distance from the ground to the bottom of the rockers? or even better would be the distance from the bottom of the framerails to the bottom of the stock oil pan, that is if it sticks below the frame at all? I will probable lower the car slightly from stock but needed someplace to start from, don't want to scrub the pan off. My car is stripped to the tub and I'm trying to figuring... MORE
The oil going into the combustion chambers will also reduce the apparent octane of the petrol which won't help matters. David "David Jacobs" 33280... MORE
"oil in combustion process...reduced octane" Most assuredly so, David. Yet another symptom we knew nothing about prior to Jen's last post. I had no idea it was blowing blue smoke. This is "wearing me out"!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33283... MORE
Jens... Timing..... I am an adult. So talk specifics to me. How "overadvanced" was the total timing from 30 degrees? Give me numbers. PCV valve.... Assuming you are running a stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve with a rubber diaphragm (and it's compatible "filtered" plastic oil filler cap), excessive oil burning would be the product of the rubber diaphragm which has become "porous". They can "look good" even when they're worn out. Replace same and you're done with this. :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33278... MORE
You may still be sniffing up the wrong tree, but if you do take the front cover off, Oil slinger in backwards or missing? Oil condensor still full of the "Kurly Kate" stuff? Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33274... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
Nigel, I don't remember what your car is, But FWIW... I had a similar problem with my Bugeye, My car came disassembled and the fuel tank fiting was not included. By trial and leak, I found that (USA terms) a standard tubing thread, copper compression fitting works. V.B. says that the same fits 65-74, and that the same pipe nut also fits 75-79, so I would assume that this should work in your car. I used copper tubbing from gas tank to carbs, (1 1/2" :() ), which is not stock, but is easier to bend and doesn't rust.... MORE
