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Terry, On the several that I have dismantled, they have all had mastic between bezel and glass, O-ring between glass and the next ring in, and an 0-ring between the case and the metal dashboard. I don't think there is supposed to be an O-ring behind the metal reflector ring. It is stepped and fits against the rim of the case, leaving a gap between it and the dial face to let the light through. One tip here is that you should save discarded O rings from the rear hubs as these will fit around the tach and speedo... MORE
If you are trying to fix the illumination of your speedo why are you taking it apart? its just a bulb that clips onto the back of it AFIK. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 29204... MORE
I am not familiar with the speedo in your vintage LBC but I had a problem with the odometer reset rod in my 62 Sprite. At about a half inch from the body of the speedo there had been a small screw hole through the rod. This was for a small screw that held a shaft extension. Mine broke at that hole leaving what looks like it might be a screwdriver slot. The rest of the rod was not able to be attached. The far end of it had a small knob that is used to reset the odometer.... MORE
Terry... I agree with Nigel asking you why all this for bulb replacement but I will answer to the extent I can 'cause obviously it's already out of the car!! :):) OK... 1. Yes (O-ring, gasket, rubber washer, bit of silicone, whatever! :) 2. Have not seen an O-ring between instrument and panel before. But I don't see why you could not do this, either. 3. White/sky blue...don't know 4. Innard out...don't recall..too long ago! :) 5. Reset rod broken...maybe. Mine ends in a little knob (most likely set into that small slot you see?) 6. As I recall,... MORE
Hi I would like to see what speed I am doing in the dark so Speedo is out and apart. 1972 RWA midget Questions Chrome bezel is filled with black gunge at rear, is this the remnants of an 0 ring that seals the bezel to the glass? Is there an 0 ring between the Speedo and dash board? The inside of the Speedo is sky blue from 1 o'clock to 7 o'clock and white for the other half. Is this correct and why? How do you get the innards out? The trip reset rod is stopping it. What... MORE
David/Guy, You are correct in what you say BUT the total current in the wire will stil l double if all the bulbs are replaced as each one will be pulling double the current. From the drawings I can see there are around four lamps in the same circuit so the total wire current will go up from 1A total to around 2A. The wiring I think though should be good for 10A or so so I don=92t think t hat nice dash smoke will be a problem. Duncan _____ From: David Jacobs [mailto: davidj@... ] Sent: Saturday, February... MORE
Mine is red, rocker cover to oil pan which was black. U.S. export? Mine is not the only red 1500 motor I've seen. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 29147... MORE
"If you are going to make your own, try to get hold of 'oil bonded' hardboard." On this side of the pond it's called "Bitumen Board". Strong, flexible and waterproof. You might find it under that name. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 29055... MORE
With appologies to Nigel. I should have said 'Oil Tempered' hardboard. (NOT oil bonded) I bought a trim set a number of years ago because the seat vinyl split next to the seams. To have panels that matched in colour with the new seats, I had to have new ones of those as well. They were not good. Not up to the standard I wanted. I ended up carefully stripping the old panels and using them as templates to make the new ones. The best drills to use are 'saw tooth' bits. They are rather like a forstner bit,... MORE
If you are going to make your own, try to get hold of 'oil bonded' hardboard. It is very dense and waterproof. ordinary hardboard is what I would call a 'biscuit' brown. Oil bonded is very much darker brown, almost black. It is a much higher quality product and will not distort like the cheaper ones. R "Roger Stinson" 29010... MORE
Ah, yes... I have to clean the inside of my fuel gauge this spring...the gasket has obviously worn to a point where moisture can condense within. Easiest way I have found is to remove the gauge but, not before I loosen the bracket, pull it out and give it a try from the front. Sometimes it comes off with a little prying and sometimes it won't. At that point removal completely to get a decent grip is the only answer I have found to getting the job done. I reseal them by using black silicone sparingly. Cap'n. Bob '60... MORE
Two down without removing the dash . . . have nice clean tach and speedometer glass now but the worst ones are the fuel and oil/temp . . . may have to wait for a dash removal for those. Don "Don May" 28984... MORE
Can't stand the foggy film on the back side of the 72 gauge glass so it's about time to clean them. I do not look forward to removing them completely from the dash to do so. Hopefully I can loosen the mounting brackets enough to push them out far enough to twist off the chrome bezels and remove the glass for cleaning . . . anyone been able to do it this way? I have cleaned another car's gauges by removing them completely but that was a 62 MKI and there was more access space to remove the brackets... MORE
Don, I love your project and I like the idea of saving all the bits for the future. On vinyl spray, I have used it for many years off and on. It works very well and lasts quite well also. If it starts to crack or wear thin, it is easy to spray a little touch up. My only advice is to clean off area to be sprayed really well. I used lacquer thinner as I recall, but put it on a rag first and then light wipe to cut any grease or oil film. The vinyl stuck very... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
Gauge electric? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28894... MORE
It may be the gage. Do the thermostat, or at least check it. Pull it out and put in a pan of cold water on the stove and bring to boil. It should open around 160 or 180 degrees. Then either check water temp against gage with a thermomator ( I use an instant read cooking thermometer) (Maybe that is why I am not married any more lolol) or use the shade tree mechanics method. 100 - 130 degrees. Hot to touch but can hold hand on hose for about 10 seconds. 130 - 150 degrees Hotter, can hold... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
When I did my car I cleaned back to bare metal and welded the necessary areas in turn. I primed each area as I completed it to keep rust from forming, particularly within the seams. I also used that weldable zinc primer on all lap welded seams. As the whole process was done over an extended period it ended up as a real patchwork of primers, applied at different times, under different conditions (temperature / humidity) and I wasn't very confident of how good the adhesion of the primer was as a basis for finish coats. I then grit... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Fuel line? Why?? Guy "Guy Weller" 28734... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
My rear end has never dropped.....but my wife's has. Jokes aside....I removed mine as a unit. Used a 4x4 across the back behind the fuel tank, supported by jack stands. Placed floor jack under diff and lowered it while having person on each side steady it. Was really quite easy. Wouldn't do it any other way! Paul "dfwip" 28728... MORE
