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Well... either carb could be run with basically the same system. I'm just talking it up a bit to learn more, bearing in mind and considering the garbage that came with my stock '74, which had the SU's of course, with all of the "closed loop" stuff. So damn long ago it is difficult for me to recall. One thing is for sure...if you pull some of this stuff off or out of the system (as in de-smogging), you have to go to a vented cap or you get fuel starvation when you truly put your foot in it... MORE
Not familiar with '77 UK cars...maybe they are the same emissions-wise as our US 1500's....not sure. I think there is supposed to be SOME pressure in the tank...shouldn't be enough to get by cap's seal, though. Maybe something as simple as a new gas cap (seal)? But there is a charcoal cannister in there under the bonnet? The fuel tank/sysem vents through this and the engine breathes inbound through this as well? The charcoal cannister also has a vent line which needs to be open... it's pretty small. And the charcoal element needs replacing every once in a while.... MORE
I had some problems with my Bugeye about a year ago, turned out to be air leak at the fuel tank/line connection, but in checking, my coil was too hot to touch for more that a second or two. Seems to be normal and I was, and do run standard gap on the plugs with the sports coil. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24181... MORE
First - will someone who has experience resolving off-idle stumble with a Weber DGV on a 1275 please post me off-list. General parameters: 1275, std bore, stock cam, head milled, Crane optical ignition, header. Use an aftermarket electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator set to 3.5 pounds. Engine has never idled this well in the 33 years I've owned it (even as low as 700rpm), idle set at 900rpm, performance above 2000 rpm is excellent. It just stumbles in the 1500 - 1700 rpm range when you hit the gas. Makes double- clutching a bit dicey. Have done... MORE
Hello all, new to the list, new to Midgets. Question: I've got a '77 that backfires between shifts under heavy acceleration. I know why; there's excess fuel being dumped into the exhaust between shifts and detonating; I just don't know the cause. The 2 possible causes I've come up with is the air pump is supplying air to the exhaust when it shouldn't (bad valve?) or the non stock exhaust the car has (just 1 tiny Walker muffler) is allowing the fuel laden exhaust to reach air before sufficiently cooled. Which of these are more plausible, or is there... MORE
G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE
We put the pan back onto the 1275, but cannot go further until I have the proper gaskets. I will not make them out of silicone!! So, in the interim, we took the 1098 apart. The problem we found, in the removing the frozen pistons, is that there are sleeves on the back two cylinders. One of the sleeves was moving when I was trying to pound the piston out. What holds the sleeve still? I want to build a motor for the Frogeye, to get it on the road, until the 1275 is built. I have two guys... MORE
Things at work have finally settled down from the past few months. We have gotten a second weekend off in a row, and I was able to get the mechanic from the truck shop to come over to my house this a.m. at 8:30. Some of you know, the 68 Sprite locked itself into first gear a while ago. It also had the original engine it rolled out of the factory with still in it, all smoking and original. If I am to repair the tranny, I will replace the engine, if only temporarily, to fix the original one.... MORE
Don, I currently own a 1500 and have done for about 8 years but only driven 1275's (in various states of tune) so I don't know how objective my observations are but here goes... For standard vs standard the 1500 certainly has more torque and IMO is perhaps easier to drive around town in traffic althought at pretty subective i guess. It also has syncro on 1st. However, although (well mine at least) is silky smooth even at unadvisably high revs the 1275 always seems to me more comfortable reving very high. not to say the 1500 won't but... MORE
I don't know if this will help, but... My friend (who runs a repair shop in So.cal for British cars) recently started working on a 75 midget and the clutch would not disengage. He told me he fixed it with the following process. Remember, this was done because the clutch would not release (like it was continually "in gear and rolling"). They push started it in second gear. Got it going fast enough to get it into third gear (without the clutch). Then stood on the brakes while it was in third gear and rolling. The car shook and... MORE
No criticism intended, Don May... ....just curious. Weber 45 carbs have many tiny channels as well. Even with a good K&N filter, grit gets in there also, blocking (most likely) the idle and progression systems so, I believe it.... doesn't take much at all. In the case of the Weber, the tiny stuff can be seen in the bottom of the float bowl. Looked like tiny specks of sand but most likely, corrosion from an older fuel tank I bet. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23905... MORE
So, Don.... You actually saw debris of some sort come out of that fuel line? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23900... MORE
The phone rang at 7:30 am Sunday morning "I'm stranded in Angles Camp, Jr. died," Jr. the name he gave the 63 Midget I sold him. "I just need a around town car." He said when he bought it. He had owned a Midget before and I was confidant I was not selling to an innocent in the ways of classic British cars. I had made clear that since I retrieved it from a carpentry work shop where it sat on blocks for twenty years and brought it back to life that I had not driven it over five... MORE
Nelson... Frank used POR15 on his floors and they still rotted out beneath the coating. This resulted in an Italian burn....IOW, he was somewhat less than amused. Neither Diane, Tiffany or the cats could soothe him. His son, who was out destroying his VW at the time his Dad fell through the POR15 coated floor (at about 60 or so, traveling down the NJ turnpike) added fuel to he fire by failing to empathize while asking Frank for yet another coupla thousand bucks to rebuild his VW's blown engine, once again. Obviously, not a good day for Frank. Thus,... MORE
Dummy Me!! :) The vented/filtered oil filler cap is also a "restrictor" in the manifold mounted PCV valve, Jim!! Sorry for my error! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23808... MORE
Jim.... "Thanks", yourself!! :):) You either don't have a maint. manual or are not reading it, I guess. Well, no matter. :) You cannot check effective operation of the manifold mounted PCV valve by taking it apart. It is tested on a running engine at idle... if it is working correctly, the idle will increase by around 200rpm when you remove the "vented/filtered" oil cap (which you are using in accordance with your manual, right?:) For with respect to the manifold mounted stock PCV valve....there are no other restrictors in this system...IT is THE restrictor! It is also diaphragm... MORE
Mike writes: "Maybe the beast is supposed to feel like a go kart going down the road" You got it...that's exactly right. But, not "wondering" down the road, assuming the surface is smooth. It should go exactly where YOU point it and NOT the other way 'round. It should never feel as though the "tail is wagging the dog". On rougher surfaces the car will "move" sideways in a controlled manner as it "skips" over rougher pavement but it should never "wonder" or feel "loose", despite the fact road shock may be transmitted to the steerng wheel. Any "wondering"... MORE
Can anyone give me the description of the restrictors that I think should be in the tube from the timing case to the PCV valve. I have just rebuilt my '68 1275 engine and it is sucking enough oil through the oil seperator to go through the engine. I tried a 1/8" restrictor and had much oil out the rear seal(screw). I then put a 5/16" inch restrictor closer to the PVC valve and it seems to do much better. I have found no information other than a reference to tube and restrictor in the Hayes manual. Thanks Jim... MORE
Uhm, I forgot the original question. :-) If your car doesn't have excessive bounce, then what was your concern? Does it drift excessively when hitting a bump in the curve? Is the front loose in all turns? Does it wander on staight and flat roads? Has the front end ever been rebuilt? Does your steering rack have play? Let's see if we can find another topic to "discuss". Maybe we should start another thread if you feel there is still something amiss in car's handling. Another thought: What if the PO put too heavy of an oil in the... MORE
"I would suggest....Datsun 5-speed" Food worth thought, IMHO. Yes...the 5 speed simply "transforms" the car....for sure! Peace and quiet of operation, fully synchro with slightly lower first three gears for xcellent acceleration, while retaining the normal 1-1 4th and engine/fuel saving "overdrive" 5th. And "rebuilt" boxi available for 1/2 the cost of "stock" box (not that you'll probably ever need one considering the HP/torque of the original 210 the box was designed for....but, in the event!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23777... MORE
I would suggest before you rush out to buy a new switch, disconnect the battery, spray plenty of WD 40 in it and work it back and forth repeatedly. Use plenty, enough to really flush it out. It's not that WD 40 is the best lube for a switch, but it won't hurt it and it will soften any old hardened oil and grime that may be causing it to stick. If it starts to work again flush it out again. You never know what previous owners have used to lube the switch if they did use oil it... MORE
Tach should be reliable and reasonably accurate. You don't want a gen. drive tach, rare and expensive. Either get your tach. to an instrument specialist for a refurb. or pick up a secondhand one. Try cheking ebay. Jeremy "Jeremy Cogman" 23649... MORE
I opened a sticking tach and found the trouble to be a warped plastic bobbin that was used to form the wire coil on the end of the indicator pointer. The bobbin walls are very thin as it is mounted on the moving needle, heat and age deteriorate and warp it to a point that it strikes adjacent surfaces causing the indicator needle to stick. I was able to gently pry off the warped and brittle side walls of the bobbin which allowed free motion again. Would not recommend trying this to anyone unless they are very comfortable working... MORE
My Dad has a 1971 Midget with a tach that won't register above 2500 rpm. The car runs great and I doubt the accuracy of the gage although it'd be nice to believe at cruise! The care has a generator. I see occasional reference to tach drive generators. Is there a way to adapt what we've got? Josh "olivaro" 23640... MORE
Show me a sprite/midget that doesn't have an oil leak !! "Beckers" 23611... MORE
