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I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
anything's possible, but the hassle of using a FWD engine is probably too much :- you can't use the crank, as the Metro has a tail that the flywheel/clutch mounts on, where the Spridget has a flange; the rear main bearing/oil 'seal' area is quite a bit different too (it can be modified to suit, given suitable engineering facilities) the front and rear engine plates are different; I *think* the oil pickup is different because of the Transmission-In-Sump, but I wouldn't swear to this; So basically, there's loads of detail differences that make it a tricky swap and you'd... MORE
Thanks, David.... I know nothing about the later spring- loaded carbs considering I never used them. Never like the idea of the needle running up against the jet...something about this that goes "against the grain" so to speak, despite the fact they meter fuel more precisely (or so I read). But, if you couldn't measure the wear at 106K, I wonder why they bother talking about it in books? Very strange 'cause that's pretty damn miniscule wear they're talkin' about. :) The latest Spridget I ever owned was a '74 who's engine came with emissions carbs but "fixed" needles.... MORE
You can get 'anti bloom' thinners. Your local paint supplier should be able to advise you on things like min temp for spraying. Also you need a water separater in the line from the compressor to the gun as compressing the air squeezes out the water. Terry "terry.isherwood" 27534... MORE
Yep... The colortune also is a real handy, neat tuning aid. I use a very sensitive handheld portable tach to set the mixture as "seeing is believing" and the colortune certainly fulfills this axiom in spades in living color! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27540... MORE
Roger Well as I don't have the correct breathing equipment for two-pack, yeah it got to be cellulose! And yes, I also remember the person saying about lots of thin coats, but he was doing a motorcycle - somewhat smaller than a car! and I don't intend to spend the rest of my life rubbing down a Midget and spraying it! And you're right, its not the best weather for spraying top coats, and yes I've already had some 'blooming' but I have no choice, I have to get it done, I simply cannot afford to wait until the... MORE
It depends on the materials you are using. Cellulose, I presume. Lots of thin coats are preferable to one or two thick ones. A little while ago, one of the other listers described how their father sprayed many coats, and then ended up with a very light coat of well thinned paint. (Alan East-Jones?) I have to say that this matches my experience. I personally would not like to be putting a final coat on at this time of year unless you have some degree of control of the temperature and humididity. (Humidity cases bloom) Having said all that... MORE
Don, Hope it's not rude to interrupt. I have exactly the same situation in my Midge and have decided on a new clutch/throwout assembly. The clutch works fine under moderate acceleration but whenever I put my foot into it is slips badly in any gear. It also seems to get worse the longer I have the car out. Without taking the car apart I have narrowed it to two possiblities. Oil leakage or old springs. I used the original clutch from my $500 dollar buy when I installed the engine. I am reliably informed that with age they will... MORE
Duncan You're most welcome, I'm just sorry I can't be of more help. I have quite a lot of old SU literature here, courtesy of an old 'motor-racing' friend of mine who many years ago had a tuning shop, but as many of us do, never threw anything out! He's now passed most of that information onto me now, I have a whole host of information relating to Solex carbs! If I do come across anything else that may be of interest to you, naturally I'll let you know. It is an interesting question though, if the Carbs were... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 5:27 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: SU Question Duncan You're most welcome, I'm just sorry I can't be of more help. I have quite a lot of old SU literature here, courtesy of an old 'motor-racing' friend of mine who many years ago had a tuning shop, but as many of us do, never threw anything out! He's now passed most of that information onto me now, I have a whole host of information relating to Solex carbs! If I do come across anything else that may be... MORE
Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with anything near the plugs/dizzy/carb, suspect lack of juice to the plugs is not the issue. I'm going to swap out the coil to see if... MORE
From: Pete Skalski [mailto: pskalski@... ] Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1500 - Low voltage troubleshooting - Help Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with... MORE
Peter... You got spark to the plugs? You got fuel to the plugs? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27357... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
re-doing the crackle finish is reasonably easily done as long as you note the temperature requirements to get it to wrinkle up properly. David "David Jacobs" 27286... MORE
I take it you have the bracket (AHA8779) made out of a strip of steel folded into a sort of triangle? The bottom of it bolts to the inner wing and the top bolts to the 'rain gutter' edge of the wing. The cooler hoses run just above the fresh air intake trunking (see pic in files called "bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg" ) it's one of those stupid yahoo locations, so posting a link may or may not work...... http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/midgetsprite/files/bracket for oil cooler hoses on car.jpg "David Jacobs" 27279... MORE
Hi all- Am finishing a ten year restoration of a 1973 Midget (US model). Has a factory oil cooler. Have properly (I hope) fitted the lines. I have a support bracket for the lines that I know was on the car. I cannot figure out how the bracket attaches to the car. I know how the bracket attaches to the lines. HELP!!!!! Thanks.......Paul "dfwip" 27278... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Jim I'm 99.9% sure the oil seal lipped side does indeed face the bearing, in other words it goes in flat side first. Yeah, front suspension can be a nightmare to take apart. Penetrating fluid all over everything at least a day before hand, is a must. Don't forget heat can be very useful as well. Just shout if you get really stuckamundo! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27176... MORE
Bob, Thanks for your reply. Maby my question was not clear enough. There is no fuel leaking in the engine compartment. It is either vaporizing in the float bowls or draining down inside the intake manifold. I took one carb apart last night and i suspect it is the two O-rings that seal the main jet. Part # 16 on the moss website. If these are old and hard fuel will have to leak by. I would think that anyone using an electric fuel pump with this style of carby could have this problem and not even know it.... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Mine is stamped from the top...it's a "replacement" I beat on it, smeared it with oil, stepped on and beat on it some more with a BFH... it now looks genuinely original...:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27165... MORE
Guys... Isn't there an anti-drainback valve in the 948's mechanical fuel pump? It's been 40 years for me so I've forgotten! :) But I think there may be one, Chris. And with no disrespect intended Chris, why would anyone run an engine with possible fuel leaks in the engine compartment? You don't EVER want to do this, man. Disaster doesn't always strike the "other guy"! :) I mean if you look just below the carbs, you'll find the exhaust system!! Speaking of which.... Invest in a portable FIREX as well that you can affix to, and carry around in... MORE
It seems to me that having a fuel leak is asking for an engine compartment fire. Why put in an electric fuel pump to fill up fuel bowls that can't hold what they already have in them? Fix those leaks then look into the electric pump. Nelson 62 Mk 2 Sprite "Nelson Wittstock" 27125... MORE
