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Zappa? Is that you Zappa? Leak is most likely caused by a sticking fuel float inlet valve. It may have a bit of grit in it. They are easy to replace, but try cleaning it first. Another likely culprit is the short length of flexible plastic tube that connects from the base of the carburetta bowl to the main jet. They come loose and leak at the bowl end. There should be a small neoprene washer, a brass washer and a gland nut. Don't overtighten the gland nut, but do make sure the pipe is pushed well into the... MORE
Hi, Alan... With respect to correctly sized LCB.... for the stock and/or short cammed engine (with largest Mickey D's in one hand and Vizard's book in the other) in a word NO, not in and of itself with respect to the stock engine, or even as part of a free flow system, unless you are cruising the highways at 70+ most of the time. For a trifle more power... The short 3-1 is better for fuel economy below the rpms associated with tooling around town and driving applications wherein rpm's associated with the above paragraph aren't likely to be... MORE
Hi Robert. Actually, if you read my post you will see that we are in full agreement. We both state the source of the increased pressure as coming past the pistons, rather than the volume displaced by the pistons which is balanced out. And we both refer to the oil leak problem that ensues. Interesting stuff about filling a 2-stroke crankcase. This was effectively the best way of increasing the compression ratios on a 2 stroke. I never went as far as you with using bondo, but I do remember there were a number of firms selling crank-case fillers... MORE
I agreed to that. See not all the air/fuel mixture get combusted or blow out the exuast. Some of the got by the piston ring gap or right between the rings and cylinderwall (bad) inturn increase the crankcase pressure. One of the few ways the pressure can be relieve is through the PCV and if that thing is clog, the oil seal at the crankshaft will be the one that take toll. Pat "Pat S." 27912... MORE
You are correct, in a perfect world, the pressure would balance out to be zero, but a little pressure sneaks past the rings, the valve guides, etc and any positive pressure pushes oil out the rear seal. Interesting side tangent when talking about two cycle engines. When I was a 16 year old kid, I worked for a marine place and we built racing Johnson outboard motors. Roy Rogers,( the great cowboy movie star) had us build his engines. Twin Johnson 35's for off shore racing. My boss and I drilled the crankcase full of holes and inserted one... MORE
When one pair of pistons is descending, the other pair is rising so the volume of the crankcase is not altered by the pistons. Presurisation of the crankcase is caused by blow-by at the pistons, allowing compressed gas from above the pistons to transfer into the sump, creating an increased pressure there. When what you wanyt is a decrease of crankcase pressure to stop oil being forced out past the so called "scroll seal". I think that 9in a 2-stroke, the crank is sealed between adjacent cylinders so each piston has its own crank case space through which the... MORE
Fit a catch tank & run all the breathers into there, Why would you want oil fumes to be sent back to carbs anyway. As it lowers your fuels octane rating ???? Beckers "beckers" 27888... MORE
BECKERS states (in part).. "....it lowers fuel octane anyway" Yeah, this is true and a tough one to call (except in a high compression motor or when higher octanes are available at reasonable cost) against crankcase evacuation of vapors/pressures with respect to oil being forced passed seals or out the rear scroll "seal". But it's basically why I run "vented" instead of "evacuated", the thought of introducing oil (in any amount) into the combustion process "going against the grain" personally, though there are cases (Judson and to a lesser extent, Shorrocks applications) where this comes with the territory so... MORE
Paul.... Assuming you are using the normal intake manifold mounted stock PCV valve, most likely the rubber diaphragm is "weak"....we all know what happens to rubber exposed to ozone (air) either sitting on a shelf in a parts wharehouse or mounted on an engine which has sat for a long period of time. The high idle along with intermitten excessive "smoking" is almost a dead giveaway. Check that hose between the flame arrester and the PCV valve as well. Rubber develops "hairline" cracks with age. Like most rubber, it lasts longer when used (not abused) while exposed to whatever... MORE
Thanks to all the "start-up" advice, the initial run-in went without a hitch. But a strange problem cropped up. Engine is a fresh high compression 1275 with PCV only. It would run very well for the first few minutes, and then start to belch smoke the likes of which few could imagine. It would do this for a couple minutes, then run normal again. Also, I could not get it to idle below 1200 rpm despite the fact that the carbs were fresh and were properly set up. With throttles CLOSED it still idled at about 1200. After doing... MORE
G'day Peter C I pack the oil pump with black moly grease (Molybdenum Disulphide). The oil picks up straight away, the moly does no harm at all to the bearings etc, and it all gets dumped out 30 minutes later anyway. Yes, I know you can prime the pump through the hole in the left rear corner, but my thumb get sore pushin down the plunger on that oil can. Now here's another way of priming the pump. You know where the oil line goes into the rear of the block on the right hand side? Well directly below... MORE
Merry Christmas NTx Chuckster! :) 1. Sleeping in 2. A great Brunch with friends 3. Now - Peace & Quiet curled up on couch with warm, furry cat-creature.... a. SNL all day on Comedy Channel b. (alternate) Wings Discovery c. (alternate) History Channel d. (alternate) History Int'l. e. (alternate) Playboy Channel Possible BE use coming up over the next 4 days if temperature cooperates. Life is "OK"! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27865... MORE
G'day Paul I agree with everything Rex said. But after 20 minutes of running at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm and then 10 minutes of silence, I retorque the head and adjust the tappets. And I dump the oil and change the filter right then. There are ALWAYS some metal filings floating around in there, from when the block was re-bored etc, and after 20 minute of running they should all be in the oil by now. I don't want them floating around in the oil and through the bearings for another 500 miles, so I refresh the oil and... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Don't forget to fill the oil filter bowel and make sure the filter is well and truly soaked before turning the engine over. Alan "Alan" 27850... MORE
Rex, Old Hot Rodder trick. Pack the oil pump with Vaseline. Lots nicer to work with and does the trick quite nicely. Used it on my first start. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 27848... MORE
Rex, On my race engines, and street engines for that matter, on the first start up, I take several pans of boiling water and fill the radiator and cooling system. It brings the block up to about 150 degrees or so. I have been told by some old drag racing engine builders that 90% of the wear and damage of a first start up is because of the cold parts, with minimum lube, under pressure are rubbing and scraping. Having a hot engine, and up to oil pressure from the first start does wonders for engine life. Oil flows... MORE
(Metallic/non-metallic ontamination) the reason behind magnetic drain plugs, "magnetic" oil flters and scheduled oil/filter changes every 3 months or so many miles as recommended by the mfgr. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27852... MORE
Peter... My mechanic packs the oil pump with..... grease!! Same grease he uses when lubricating chassis/suspension grease nipples. He will also turn the engine over with a drill via the distributor drive to ensure oil pressure before the actual start. His "way". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27839... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
Now the the engine will start, I am installing the new fuel pump in the next day or so. In between answering MG questions and completely pissing off all females on the planet, the Cap'n indicated there was a "right" way to initially run-in a motor, at least during the first 20 minutes. I'm clueless. Help would be appreciated. Don't want to end up with an expensive boat anchor. Merry Christmas! Paul "dfwip" 27826... MORE
Paul, we all got there in the end, It's usually something simple when you can't figure out the problem. I wish I could have been a bit more precise when relating to the similar (mini) engine build problem I had many years ago. All I could remember was a long bolt fouling on something but couldn't remember where. It wasn't the oil filter bracket though. Oh well. Alls well that ends well. Looking on the bright side, you got your clutch working, you didn't have to drop the sump / remove the head or pull the engine out. SPILLUNG... MORE
Trevor- Your "random" thoughts are really good. YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You got me to thinking about the oil filter bracket on the side of the motor. I used new bolts. I pulled the bracket off this morning and the VERY TIP of one bolt showed contact. I knew immediately I had found it. So your thought about "oil" together with the other guys that kept telling me it was a "too big bolt in too small hole" issue solved it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!! Now the final problem. The bolt that showed the hit was the rearmost bolt. If you remember,... MORE
Paul, Congrats. It was not a mistake, it was just one of those things that happen and now about 500 of us listers will think about the length of bolts that go into lumps where things are spinning. It was good for all of us. Especially you because it was an easy fix. I don't think you have to worry about any damage. I would just change the oil and filter after perhaps 30 minutes of running just to make sure any metal chips are out of the system. Keep us up on how it starts and runs. Cheers,... MORE
Paul, So you are the one that installed the flywheel and the clutch? Did you use the correct bolts? The use of the improper bolts on the flywheel could cause your problem. If they stick out the rear of the crankshaft they could foul up on the backng plate or possibly on the three bolts that hold on the rear main cap oil slinger. Also by using to long of bolt through your pressure plate into (through) the flywheel the same thing could occur. I'm not sure but I think it could hit the oil pump cover. Sure hope... MORE
