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G'day guys Just thought I would add my thoughts on the over/under heating problem. My race car has a radiator I had made about 7 years ago. 3 cores and it's so thick it has cut-outs to clear the steering rack mounts! On a 100 F day, I can't get it to heat up. I warm it to around 180 F in the pits, go out for a 10 lap race and come in at 170 F. I was recently asked by a customer to make a copy of the radiator for his car, so with 7 years now... MORE
Trevor I investigated the possiblity of converting to gas shock absorbers myself and did some investigation into it, but I don't have that information to hand, so I'm going from memory. I think my conclusion was that it wasn't worth the money compared to the benefits received, as I mentioned, correctly working lever arm shock absorbers were perfectly adequate for normal road use. The comments I'd heard from people who had converted to gas shock absorbers followed similar lines - ie the benefits received didn't justify the expenditure. A case of the old 90/10 rule. Other comments were that... MORE
"I would suggest....Datsun 5-speed" Food worth thought, IMHO. Yes...the 5 speed simply "transforms" the car....for sure! Peace and quiet of operation, fully synchro with slightly lower first three gears for xcellent acceleration, while retaining the normal 1-1 4th and engine/fuel saving "overdrive" 5th. And "rebuilt" boxi available for 1/2 the cost of "stock" box (not that you'll probably ever need one considering the HP/torque of the original 210 the box was designed for....but, in the event!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23777... MORE
"I might pick up a pair and use them for a while...." Sounds like a reasonable way to evaluate, Trevor. My BE came with the Wheelrite kit (original shocks changed to softer Gas-Adjust GR2's) but had it come with the original levers, the car would be using Pete's shocks today. Everybody who has got them raves about their superiority over those originally supplied and all these people simply cannot be wrong. Peter can also supply them with various valves as well to tailor their stiffness. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23775... MORE
Jeffrey.... Replace the VW shocks used with the Wheelright kit with Gas-Adjust GR2's (Corvette size). They are much softer and more suited to the Spridget. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23763... MORE
Michael I'd definately stick with the OE shock absorbers. Everyone I've heard of who've had the gas conversion done have not been that impressed with them. There is reaally nothing wrong with the OE shock absorbers when working correctly. I'd suggest either getting yours rebuilt if they need it or getting an exchange pair - there's not need to go to the expense of a a gas conversion. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23753... MORE
Well, sounds like I should go with the recore option. I ordered a rad from BPC, and it cost me $170 delivered. However, it is for the '75. The difference between the '75 and '76 and up models lies in the facts that the later model rad is about 2" wider, and the spill tank connection is larger. Therefore, it is assumed that cooling capacity is better in the later model rad, and I don't want to take the chance of trying to place the '75 rad in the car. Still trying to figure why the late model rads... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
Ok folks I'm new to the MG money pit ! :) I need a windshield post for my 79 MG midget, and can any one tell me how to go about replaceing the glass. The next problem is engine overheating. That is a LONG story but I'm glad to share it with any one willing to listen. Lastly is body work. I need some help here too. I have been able to beat the prince of darkness ( Lucas ) at his own game hahaha. Also anyone out there need a tester for Triumph TR type fuel guages? I... MORE
On a '75 I would suspect the fuel pump diaphragm may have a tear in it. At higher speeds it would result in insufficient fuel supply to the carbs; fuel level would be low and would result in a weak fuel mixture. Take the top off the fuel pump and check the condition inside. Guy "Guy Weller" 23549... MORE
Rob... the temp rise, along with the stumble... tells me it's running very lean at higher speeds. Do an old fashioned 'plug check'. Find a stretch of road where you can cruise at say.. 30-40mph steady for about 10 minutes. While at speed, switch off the ignition and coast/brake over to the side of the road. Pull a sparkplug and see if it's whitish, or grayish/brown in color. Now repeat the cruise at 50-55mph. Kill the engine at speed Pull over and check the plugs again. If they are much whiter than before....it's running lean. If you simply slow... MORE
Re: Fuel Pump Pressure? Hey does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be coming out of the fuel pump on a 1978 1500 midget? Mine is 5 1/2 pounds. When I drive over 3500 RPM's / 60-65 MPH the gas goes to the front charcoal canister, fills it and chokes out the carb. I take off the bottom hose, drain and ok for another 20 miles. We tried everything and it still happens. I was thinking maybe the pressure is too high. Any thoughts. Joe Blitz Rochester NY "Joe Bellizia" 23310... MORE
Not sure, Roger. Bugeye, Bugeye gas gauge, sender new/unused in original box, bought from a parts pack rat in '00. Didn't study or keep the box or part #. Just checked to verify reasonable variable resistance data and then installed it in stock Bugeye tank. It "looked" the same externally as the old one. H "hamondale" 23228... MORE
results (recorded in my notebook a couple of years ago): approx Resistance position (ohms) E 7 1/4 18 1/2 31 3/4 70 F 880 The variation was smooth, but obviously non-linear. (Expressing the relationship as a higher order polynomial is left to the student as a homework exercise.) I have no idea why it differs with Don's data, but it could be my meter among other things - an old Sears multifunction auto analyzer. What I can say is that it looked reasonable, and when coupled to my stock fuel (oops, petrol) gauge, the combo worked fine. I routinely... MORE
For those whose curiosity is acute here is a link to how a gas gauge works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge2.htm Don "Don May" 23220... MORE
Hi Guys How can you test that the fuel tank sender unit is working correctly WITHOUT hooking it back up to the fuel tank and connecting it to the battery. Is there a multimeter test that can be done? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23198... MORE
On the unit I have there are three bend over metal tabs holding the case sections together. Carefully bend them up to pull the unit apart. There may be some resistance at the float shaft end that looks like a slotted screw to pass through the hole, a little cleaning there and you can pull the case apart enough to remove the brass spring. I also rubbed the ends of the spring on fine sand paper and cleaned the case surface around the shaft hole where the spring contacts the case and the surfaces of the round bushing next... MORE
Nigel, Most guages that are wired are nothing but "volt meters" re marked to read temperature, tank levels. They are powered by the car electrical system through some for of a potentiometer. In a 12 volt system, full voltage is sent to the potentiometer, and depending on the design of the "pot" the voltage supplied will be increased or decreased as the potentiometer actuator is moved (via float in a fuel tank sending unit). You should be able to attache the leads of a volt meter to one wire from the guage and the other to chassis ground and... MORE
I happened to have a sender unit out of the 69 midget and measured the resistance with it removed from the tank. It reads roughly from 20 to 250 ohms as the float goes from empty to full position. Now mine was not working correctly so I took it apart and discovered a weak point. Inside the case the arm of the float unit connects to the wiper blade that moves across the wirewound resistance surface. To assure good contact of the arm to the case/chassis there is a spring that presses against the inside of the case. The... MORE
Hey does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be coming out of the fuel pump on a 1978 1500 midget? Mine is 5 1/2 pounds. When I drive over 3500 RPM's / 60-65 MPH the gas goes to the front charcoal canister, fills it and chokes out the carb. I take off the bottom hose, drain and ok for another 20 miles. We tried everything and it still happens. I was thinking maybe the pressure is too high. Any thoughts. Joe Blitz Rochester NY "Joe Bellizia" 23147... MORE
midgetSpriter's, I've been trawling the lists for an answer to what seems to be an eternal struggle of getting my Standard Block 1275cc Midget (1970) to run in a reasonable fashion. I've read with interest a number of suggestions and am even more confused as to what the right thing to do in regard to getting this car to run with todays fuels. I've tried the full complement of fuels and am currently running with Premium Unleaded. The engine has been recently rebuilt with the addition of hardened valve seats so I guess I should at least have some... MORE
I picked up a nice fuel pump there 25.00 buck "Jason Gross" 22819... MORE
Actually, Bob... Number of carbs notwithstanding, it's probably the same system they used on the single carbed '75, slightly modified for the different engine and/or single carb. set-up and/or closed loop fuel system. However, your input gives us the reason for the compression fitting in the first place...I was not at all sure how it figured into the system, as you may have guessed! And while I do not recall it being a part of the emissions stuff I pulled off my previously owned '74, most likely it was there, in the same place as Don May finds it... MORE
Morning Bob, So the collected fumes in the charcoal canister are fed back into the system via the hose to the head cover. It appears there is no collection ports from the fuel bowls on the carburetors. So that would explain their being no hose from them to the canister. That leaves why the PO felt an additional restrictor was necessary, or desirable, in the oil separator to carburetors hose. It was my understanding that as you say "The input fittings within the carbs are in themselves graduated orifices." Think I will take the additional restrictor he inserted out... MORE
Hi, Don May... 1. The missing hose from the carb. to the charcoal cannister MAY be for the fuel bowls with respect to an "anti- runon" valve feature. This is a guess on my part. What this did was create a vacuum at the fuel bowls when oil pressure fell to zero through a solenoid switch when the ignition was switched off. The fuel bowls were vented to the charcoal cannister as part of the closed loop fuel system. The solenoid switch was wired "hot" which is why the PO MAY have disconnected this. 2. The line off your... MORE
