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Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
if im building a midget metro turbo but want to keep the boost to 7/8 psi and use an intercooler and aquamist 1s water injection could i use the comp ratio of 9.4:1? and remain well under detonation level? what would be the best way to build this engine or which engine midget/marina etc would be best to use for this application? the reason for the higher comp is i still want good half throttle fuel economy which ignition system would people reccomend for this too? thanks for using everyones vast knowledge rob "Robert EADES" 26378... MORE
Do you smell gas when driving of if the car is parked? If no puddles, no smell, no pools of fluid on the engine then are you sure you are losing fuel? Could it be the gauge? Fill it up drive home...Park it...next day go back and fill her up again. How much is gone? More than normal for that trip? Could someone be stealing your gas out of the tank? Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 26366... MORE
I try to read what you post, but, the car that you took in, is it the midget? What year? Do you see puddles under the car? I know you have a British car, but I don't know it this is the car that we are talking about. What color are the puddles? Where are they? front, like the carbs, or rear like the fuel tank? Bob Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26362... MORE
Ed... This is strictly a matter of density altitude or to put it differently, the amount of air molecules per cubic foot of.....air!! The air at 10,000 feet is much "thinner" than the air at sea level...it is much "lighter" per cubic foot. Fr'instance, at sea level a cubic foot of air weighs 14.7 lbs. It weighs half of this at an altitude of 18,000 feet. The adiabatic lapse rate (temp. change per thousand feet) and it's humidity figure into this but we'll ignore these for now. So for the volume of air taken in at 10,000 feet, you... MORE
Hi All. I haven't had much time to write, but I wanted to share a driving experience I had last week. As most of you know I recently started a job selling new Volvo, Audi, Mazda and Audi cars. I've been out for some neighborhood romps in the Audi TT and the Mazda RX8, both of which are a gas to drive, but I had the rare opportunity to get a test track training from Volvo last week. They rented out a large section of tarmac at Alameda Naval Air Station and set up two coned off test tracks.... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
G'day Cap'n I think it's RON. There is only one octane measurement over here, down under. And yes, it's unleaded. With one of those in-line zinc fuel catalyst thingies to protect the valve seats. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 26237... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
Colin states (in part), "We run 9.5-10.5 to 1.....on 98 octane fuels.." Ass-u-me "unleaded" or "low-lead", Colin but... is this "RON" or "PON" as to octane value? Methinks "RON". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26223... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
Cap'n: Thanks for your help. The canister vent lines are clean and you can blow thru them. (I assume you mean the lines that run from secondary canister to behind inner fender.) I do wonder about the vent pipe to seperator hook up in trunk. I renewed these rubber lines, would it make a difference if the were possibly crossed? I will switch them and see. As you mentioned this model should have a tight fitting cap with rubber gasket... which it does not have at this moment. In the meantime I have dropped the tank again, removed sending... MORE
Well, Mike... When you haven't owned the car from new, we have no idea what it went through before it came to you. PO may have kept the tank less than half full most of the time and condensation over time under such circumstances would have an opportunity to really go to work on the metal. Well...fingers crossed for you... Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26130... MORE
Hi Seem to be having trouble getting enough fuel from tank to engine. I get excellent fuel pressure from end of line (at the tank) to carb. Once it's hooked to tank I get drastic pressure drop. The car will idle and rev fine, even drive ok but when I punch it out it dies out. No fuel at carb. I have had tank off a couple times and it is clean. Air blows through pickup tube nice and strong. This is a '79 1500 Midget with the tank with vent tube that goes into emissions system. I have... MORE
AH, HAH. Changes the whole story, Mike. Yep.... corrosion in the tank seems to be the culprit, then. But check that fitting where the tube goes into the tank, 'cause it could be a "combo" situation....a little contamination of the fuel supply along with an air leak where the outside tube to fuel pump line meets the tank. Hope this cures your situation...most likely will I bet, at least temporarily. Now...do you overhaul the old tank to get rid of the corrosion problem ("coating") or do you spring for a new one, considering the prior problem at the external... MORE
Hmmm.... Had this sort of problem on initial acquisition of my BE with 1098. Turns out the fuel cap was of the "unvented" type...being used in an "open" system. This resulted in vacuum within the tank under extended "load"...went to a vented fuel cap...solved the problem. Your system is "vented" to a charcoal cannister by way of an expansion tank located in the right trunk "wall". I am not sure exactly how this works, having disabled all this stuff immediately upon acquisition of my PO'd '74 Midget, while going over to a vented fuel cap in it's case, among... MORE
Hmmm, could be several things. With these plastic filters, as I recall, the fuel flows into the centre of the filter element and outwards so you don't see when it's full of clag. T hat said, you can drive on long cruising stretches fine. IT could therefore be the fuel pump. This is (if it is as standard) mounte d under the 'rear seat' and has a crude (but effective electro-mechanical m echanism akin to a doorbell. IT contains a set of electrical points which detoriarate over time which can lead to the pump 'sticking'. Often a bang on... MORE
Hi all, my name is Julian from Uk (Nottingham) and I am a newcomer to the site so p lease treat me gently. I have purchased an absolutely beautiful (I would say that wouldn't I) 1967 MG Midget in Red, wire wheels, chrome bumpers, leather trim with white pip ing...mmmmm Anyway. I have a little problem in that after a long run with no junctions I often have to sit in traffic queues to get into the centre of the City. I f I am in a queue like this for over 10minutes...creaping forward in first. .stopping....into neutral...into first....stopping....the... MORE
Julien... Well, could be an old or weak fuel pump, lack of a heat shield between carbs and engine (it gets hot under there when not moving at speed) causing fuel to percolate or "vapour lock", or lack of a vented fuel cap (though the latter is usually a case of fuel starvation which shows up under load..as in climbing a long hill with the foot well down). So, number one, check for the heat shield (basically a metal plate upon which the throttle return springs are mounted in the stock set-up). If it's "there"....go to... ...number two; at... MORE
I recently aquired a 78 1500cc midget that has been sitting for 8 years. I have been there before, so I am familiar with what I need to do to get this thing running again (flush & recondition tank, replace hoses, etc..) but I do have a couple of questions. 1. The car had been converted to a Webber DGV carb. Is this a better carb than the stock zeniths? Does it provide better performance or should I change it back. 2. Other than victoria british, is there a different company I should be looking to for parts, a... MORE
Guy Trust you, Mr Thrifty ; ) I'd never really though about that to be honest, I just wanted to replace t =3D=0D he rubber diaphragm with another new rubber diaphragm, cost wasn't an issue to be honest, not that I'm saying that 'it'll be done at all costs' just th =3D=0D at I wanted the seats as original as everything else. What I was unhappy about was the strip that goes round the SU fuel pump. =A31.70 for a strip of self adhesive that didn't even have the correct SU l og=3D=0D o on it, I did ring... MORE
Oh absolutely although I don't hink it is as simple as company X is cheaper than company Y. I have a pool of about half a dozen suppliers I use and I shop around each time because one company will be cheaper for one thing whereas another will be cheaper for something else. I've found Bromsgrove MG very cheap for some of the 'regular' things such as fuel pumps and brake drums, especially if you are happy to have 'pattern'. Jeremy Well, I haven't ordered any parts for the Midget for some time, the last time was about 12... MORE
I also ordered some parts for my fuel pump, which I'm putting back together =3D=0D , and decided to get the 'SU replacement part' tape to go round the middle of =3D=0D the pump holding the rubber sealing strip in position. Now, I was unhappy with this and it will go back. They haven't even got the =3D=0D correct SU logo on the strip, and even then, the circle has chunks knocked =3D=0D out of it. For a price of =A31.70 (2.55 USD) I thought it was a bit pricey, but f=3D=0D or it to be crap quality as... MORE
